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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:42 am 
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So in order for you to use them, they would need to be your only source of camber adjustment.

So I need to be sure they can go from zero to maybe 3 degrees neg on camber?

I won't be able to know for sure till I fit them in my car, remove the camber bolts, and see what I come up with.

Thanks for the info though, I was wondering what you would have to add.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 11:16 am 
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Quote:
So in order for you to use them, they would need to be your only source of camber adjustment.


Yes, in theory. I can use any strut assembly though, so there's probably some possibility for building camber into the tabs on the strut that bolt on to the knuckle--I am pretty sure this would be against the "spirit" of the rules, but within the "letter" and unlikely to be protested

3 degrees is a good amount--something like this should give a good range of increased camber and caster:

Image

(that's actually an upper control arm, but you get the idea...)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 2:59 am 
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Still making progress....

The first actual arm in hand, test fit to car is just too heavy, cobbled together, ugly, rusty, hastily welded, wrong balljoint, etc to show pics of here. Don't want to scare anyone off before they see what I'm trying to accomplish

So now that I know it fits with no tire or wheel interference, and has great caster adjustability due to the reduction of the poly bushings thickness, we are now making some needed changes.

I have found a different balljoint and am hoping to fit it to the new arm with changes soon.

Upon checking bmr suspensions website to try to figure out what wall thickness they were using on their ChrMo control arms for camaros, I found they do not offer any of the arms in ChrMo any longer.

.120 wall 1.25" round DOM steel tubing is so much stronger than anywhere you would mount it in a suzuki swift or geo metro, I think we are going to abandon the idea for now and concentrate on picking out a mild steel that doesn't require TIG welding.

Any arguments will be heard and taken as advice......

I realize ChrMo is basically twice as strong as mild steel, I just don't think any of the suspension pickup points in the car are beefy enough to need ChrMo tube. I can see doing it to cut the wall thickness way down to save weight tho.... Might have to for this reason alone. i will need to weigh the finished arm and balljoint versus stock junk before I decide on the cost vs. weight benefit

I will have pics up A.S.A.F.P. ....... Lol

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:39 pm 
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Im down on this too. I also thought about hodge podging a set together to see what the characteristics would be.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 6:35 pm 
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Your going for this with adjustable ball joints?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-tub ... ms.324215/

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 7:47 am 
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hodge podge.....lol.... great description....
so far we have made 2 versions out of junk laying around the shop
im not happy wth balljoint, mount, angle, bush size, or tube and gusset layout
but it is progressing and it does fit the car and has no interference issues.
i dont like the upkick thing the balljoint has going on but so far its the only one i can find in this configuration with the right diam pin so.... i keep searching
vacations and other vehicle troubles have slowed the r&d considerably but it will get done one way or another

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:04 pm 
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Location: Grant, Alabama
Old post, but any updates?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 1:37 pm 
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no great progress made. had 3 different versions built for my car so far. didnt like the way any of them worked out. my current builder is not willing to do any more work on them right now till spring so im on hold for now.

the balljoints either didnt work out the way i wanted, or cost too much, or were to bulky for this car and the fact that the lower balljoint is not load bearing....

basically, i have to decide if i want to loose the adjustable balljoint or switch over to a rod end style joint to keep it adjustable.

im leaning towards rod ends. they are easily adjusted and fairly easily/affordably replaced

my trans also took a crap, and the gt trans i bought and swapped in is also garbage so i havent driven the car in months. it kind of put off all the projects until i have the time and money to get ANOTHER trans. and i wont be going with a gt trans i dont think. the gear ratio killed my top end. this car used to go over 100mph easily. with this trans...it runs out of gear before there. i need to find a good alternative. maybe change the final drive in a gt trans to something more hiway useable.

thirdly, i am also in the middle of making koni race strut insert housings for this car. it went on the back burner as well when the trans went south.

sorry i have no good news here other than i will finish it one of these days.

right now im trying to procure a t3 intake setup on the forum to help complete my turbo build.

thanks for bumping my thread TTT

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:58 pm 
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Location: Grant, Alabama
I'm thinking about boxing in the lower control arms, make them stronger that way and with poly bushings added. Be a temp but good performing part until the control arms you're making are available.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 7:02 pm 
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that will certainly help, but the balljoints are just crap. they are too small and welded into the arms you buy now.

i started this to make some arms that were obviously better, but also rebuildable.

thats my goal. lighter, serviceable, stronger, better looking....lol

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:53 pm 
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just an update for anyone whos watching.

the latest design of the control arm is semi-finalized ... lol

the cad drawings are at the 3d printers and im waiting to hear that they are done.

its a favor from a family members bosses company so they are not in a rush.

once i get the arm back and test fit it for interference, i will post the pics of that arm on the car.

i went a different route for this set of arms and im not expecting to sell many... or any of them, but they will be ultra slick and available to anyone who wants to pay. these arms belong on a pagani, or similar hyper car

the tubular arms are still in the works, and will be test fit after i can manage to buy a bender that will do 156 wall tubing. the design is finished, just need a prototype built. im broke, my metro is broken, and my daughters car is giving me fits so its very slow going..... still

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Last edited by dethbrd on Tue Feb 16, 2016 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 7:10 pm 
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Whats the general ballpark for pricing? To keep costs down, how much fkr the arms not plated or painted?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:23 pm 
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the powder coat in black is pretty cheap but they will be cheaper shipped bare.

i am hoping to have the tube arms at 350 or less. would love to say 300 but its still early and i dont want to hazard a guess. i may sell them in regular dom tubing as well for costs sake. we will see.

its been a long time in the making, and its still a ways out yet though.

its frustrating being a poor SOB.

3d prototype is not finished yet, company business pulled my guy off the job until monday at least.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 9:43 am 
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it's a good thing i'm patient. :-P

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 2:01 am 
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If thats 350ish for both Im definately interested. Maybe even if per each. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:41 am 
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Watching this thread still, I would pay quite handsomely for any alternative the crappy stock arms.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 2:06 pm 
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much to my disliking, my life is a frickin rollercoaster over the last 4 years.

i have gotten my hands on a descent size lathe mill combo and a dedicated mill.

i got them moved to my familys shop, setup and wired... fully functional, and then we closed the shop less than 2 weeks later.

now the machines are in storage until we figure out what we are doing next as far as the business goes.

my old cnc guy moved out of the country, so thats a dead end.

i am working a trade deal with a full machine shop to build the parts in trade for car parts, but its still a few months out. he has no cnc capabilities but he does alot of bartering with other shops in his area as he has a few patents on faa approved repairs of airplane parts. good possibility this will pan out eventually. he has a broke down car....i have the parts he needs to fix it. i just have to get the parts halfway across the country somehow.

i am still working with the builder and shop that does my current parts but i am out of money to r&d any further for right now.

i also have another deal to trade consulting time for 3d printer and autocad time, but this guy is so busy expanding his business nobody knows when i might get him to sit down and draw some parts. he just bought a huge 5 axis cnc mill for his shop, so im not going to push him because i really want to get some machine time from him. his machine is big enough to build anything i would ever need.... engine blocks, wheels, whatever.

at last consensus with all my builders/friends/engineers/shade tree race car builders, i should make the arms out of mild steel for ease of manufacturing and cheap replacement in the event of crash damage, and offer a billet aluminum version "for people that gots money".

ive finally found a suitable, easliy replaced, inexpensive(25$) balljoint that presses in and has an internal snap ring for added peace of mind. its an offroad piece so no zerk fitting but i may just drill them and install the zerks myself. it fits the stock steering knuckle perfectly with zero modification. the billet aluminum arm is already rough drawn. if i go through with it, it will have a rod end on the front inner mount, fit with the factory mount hardware, and be caster/camber adjustable.

i havent figured out a reliable way to make the tube arm accept the balljoint, make no knuckle mods, use factory bushings, and make it fully adjustable.

another issue im having is that trying to add anymore caster then the commonly available caster bushings at the bottom of the suspension pushes the front wheels out too far, making them susceptible to rub the bumper and inner wheelhouse structure. at least on my car, i need to add anymore caster at the top of the strut, which means modding the strut tower and or making offcenter strut top mounts.... thus meaning it would no longer be able to enter certain classes of scca or other sanctioned events. its very hard to do this and make everyone happy....

i am hoping the racers could use my arms with a centered, unmodified strut top mount because they mostly run 13" wheels anyway. people like me, with 15s or 16s, could use them with offcenter strut tops to get the maximum caster for road use with no worries about passing a race tech inspection.... no one is looking underneath my fender or hood..... lol and im sick of driving my car around with less than 3 degrees of caster, no power steering, and truck ruts all over the road grabbing my HUGE 195s and pulling me all over the lane.

sorry for the long reply, just wanted to address all the questions ive gotten over the last few months.

on a somewhat related note, my car needs new tires.... so im tossing around the idea of going to a 205/50/15. that will put the rear inner tire into the strut tower. so now i need to space the rear tires out. i also need new wheel bearings. thirdly, i need to get my gt rear disc brakes on the car. so im thinking i need to fabricate a new rear knuckle that accepts a unit bearing with 12mmx1.25 wheel studs, has a larger clamp for the strut so as to act as a coil over spring pad, has integral rear caliper mounts to fit the gt brakes or whatever caliper is desired, and move the rear wheels out further away from the strut tower. possibly have spacers behind the bearing available to set your rear track width to suit your needs, and be custom ordered to fit different diameter struts. a billet knuckle would be badass, but as with everything else, i would like to be able to sell these if i make a few sets for me first.

why does something as simple as ordering new tires have to turn into a huge re-engineering project?

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