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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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 Post subject: Small block in geo metro
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:57 pm
Posts: 6
Location: USA
How would you go about putting a small block in a 1993 geo metro 1.0l? How would you go about doing that? What would you have to do?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1118
Location: Alberta, Canada
If you have to ask, you shouldn't even start. No point in wrecking a geo for yet another eng swap that will never happen. Is this post even serious or just a joke?

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:50 am
Posts: 501
Location: Lithuania
Anything is possible, there's just the question why.

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I ride a Honda, but I drive a Suzuki.

99 Honda CB600F Hornet
90 Suzuki Swift 1.6 GLX 4WD


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:44 am
Posts: 435
Location: castlerock Wa,
And the answer, WHY THE HELL NOT. I still have My very first auto metro tarped just waiting to get my 327 with 305 vortec heads stuffed in it. Well the car will be slid over the top of the tube chassis frame. how does a metro with 205/60r15 front and 255/60r15 rear BFG radial T/A's sound? Sounds bad ass to me, but very very very expensive.

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If you ain't First your last - Ricky Bobby

1990 swift GL Twincam swap
Hyundai trans swap- in progress


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:25 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Calgary
Cody, don't be mean!

It's a simple process. First, you move the steering rack up to the rad support, because it's in the way of your transmission tunnel. You may have to mount it upside down, to have the shaft pointing the right way. Then, weld a 3/8 drive socket onto the rack, an extension onto the steering shaft, and use craftsman u-joints and extensions to make a steering shaft that'll clear your engine and exhaust and all that. Don't bother tack welding them together, because the welding will wreck the corrosion protection of the tools. Also, check it out. It may steer backwards when your'e done. You'll have to keep that in mind when you're driving.

Once that's out of the way, you need to hack apart the firewall and floor to clear your drivetrain. Lower it with your engine crane so it's hovering there, and then get your metal and welder out, fab up some engine mounts, and weld them in. Just weld them to the sheetmetal.

Then, you just need a transmission crossmember out of a camaro or something. Unbolt it from the donor car, then bolt to your metro's floor in the right spot. Make sure you use big washers!

Then, buy a 4-link kit. And a diff of some sort. It'll likely be WAY too wide, but that's ok. Just use fiberglass or thick rubber to make some sort of fenders so the law doesn't bother you.

Route your exhaust up out the hood for best results. That's the main reason for using a 350 - you just need to flip the manifolds side to side, and they point up! Hooray! Make sure you use those flapper caps like a tractor, or the engine could get filled up with water in the rain, and hydrolock.

The metro gas tank won't work, just strap the gas tank from your doner car down where the spare tire goes with ratchet straps, and run the hoses up to the engine.

I suppose you'll need a shift linkage, throttle linkage, radiator, and stuff. If the front of engine drive belt stuff won't fit, you can always use a jackshaft. Take a look at a toyota previa if you don't know what I mean. It basically bolts to the front of the crank. Then you bolt the crank pulley to it. That way, you can mount the fan and stuff out front. It'll get it out of the engine compartment so you have room to work on the car, and it'll give it a badass mad-max look, to match your rear fender flares.

Then, just weld down some sheetmetal for the transmission tunnel. Lots of guys are gonna say you need to make the unibody stronger to handle the torque of a 350, but the suzuki unibody is actually really tough. My car has almost 100 horsepower, and it's fine. If you're using an 80s carbureted 350, you'll only be making about 120 horsepower, so no big deal.

All this, including the car, engine, transmission, diff, miscellanious parts, steel, 2000 feet of mig welding rod, fuel tank, wiring, etc, should come to around $5000. About the same price as a late 90s lt1 camaro with a 6 speed that you could just get in and drive. But this way, you'd have an ugly, uncomfortable car. And you'd get to do all that extra work.

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turbo 3 swapped 90 firefly convertible

low mile 90 firefly 3 cylinder/auto 4 door

beat to hell 89 GTi


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 511
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
:shock: :shock: 8) 8) :shock: :shock: dont forget the chrome nuts off of the hitch

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1.0 turbo
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
more to come...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 6:37 pm
Posts: 780
Location: Palmdale, Ca
1. Build a narrow and short enough tubular chassis
2. Cut body off of Metro
3. ???
4. Profit!!
:P

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1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:37 pm
Posts: 1008
Location: West "By God" Virginia
copy this ....... install smallblock v8
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9156


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