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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu May 05, 2011 12:01 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Ok so my co-builder and I re-scheduled the cylinder head assembly to this evening, as we both got tied up yesterday. I encountered a little snag with the bottom end though. You know there is a blocked off port sitting right next to the one for the oem oil pressure sender(I have assumed thus far that its another oil port)? Well I thought I would remove the plug and get an adapter fitting to feed the line going to my prosport oil pressure sender (I had one custom made, since I've heard that those senders are susceptible to failure via engine vibration).

So I ended up just rounding the alan plug that was factory inserted...tried to tap it with a flathead screwdriver and hammer but it does not budge. I guess I'll have to take it to a welding shop and have them weld on a bolt to the plug and then get it out.

Anyway, I was reading up the repair manual last night to psyche myself up for the assembly, since work and the weather have had me lazy of late.

Oh, and I added a comparison shot of the cultus intake manifold vs. the oem one to my album...you can check it out here:
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20303

Yes its a crappy cell phone pic, just like all the others but hey, that's all I have time to snap! You can clearly see though that the cultus runners are longer and the internal diameter of each of them are larger than the oem cast one.

More to come.....

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Certified Suzuki Owner:
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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


Last edited by PBC137 on Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:00 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:24 pm 
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After searching hi and low locally to get a set of standard sized connecting rod bearings, I gave up and ordered it from Rock Auto today. I also needed to get a new intake manifold gasket, oil pressure switch and oil pan gasket so I ordered those as well.

Guess I now have no choice but to wait for the parts to be shipped. In the meantime, I'll start on cleaning up the engine bay and wire harness.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 1:25 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Yabba dabba doo! I finally got the rod bearings yesterday (Clevite). Gonna start putting together the bottom end this evening, and see how far I can get.

Lemme ask something of you folks who have experience in putting this engine back in....what is the easiest way? My plan is to assemble everything externally and then use the cherry picker to put it in from above, as I've seen others here do in pics. I don't however want to dent the cultus intake manifold or even the extractor in the process, so should I install both the manifolds AFTER I bolt the engine back in? Is there enough room to do this easily, especially on the intake manifold side?

I dropped my engine from underneath, since the head was already out, so this procedure is new to me.


Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 4:56 pm 
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the head is really big for the engine bay. what i do on those is drop from the top without the fuel rail, intake or exhaust manifolds. i bolt that stuff on after the block is located in the engine bay.

i also mate the transmission and engine and install the starter and alternator. then i drop the entire power unit in from the top.

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:35 pm 
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What you can do is bolt on everything except the exhaust manifold and drop it in from the top just like i did,fuel rail,starting motor,alternator,everything except exhaust manifold.I don't know about the oil pan gasket as the workshop manual says to use a silicone type sealant,i used Permatex Ultra Grey and it has worked for me but to each his own.


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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 12:56 pm 
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Thanks guys, I will take your advice into consideration. t3, I really wanted to have the engine timed and everything before I drop it in, so may try it the way tosh suggested. I'll probably have to remove the hood though.

tosh, the oil pan gasket is made out of a cork material. I believe that unless you are using a sealant that tolerates a lot of vibration (like the ones used in heavy machinery) that its only a matter of time until a leak develop's somewhere along that seam.

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 8:53 am 
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Fortunately a friend offered to lend me his cherry picker so I will go ahead and assemble the entire thing minus ex. manifold and then drop it all in.

The block is now fully assembled.
Image

I offered up the head onto the block just for kix, as they are sitting in my living room and there's no way I can haul that out of the house and into the garage by myself, so I'll be taking the block first and doing the assembly in the garage. But somehow working in the comfort of inside, in front the TV has gotten to me!
Image

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 11:33 am 
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Is that a cork gasket on the pan??

:huh:

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B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 12:15 pm 
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Yes it is...that's a felpro one. I have put red rtv on both the pan and the block though, the cork is just the 'meat' in the sandwich! :D

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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 5:22 pm 
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Tsk Tsk... Cork is never good. :p

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J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 7:24 pm 
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I have had no bad experiences with using cork oil pan gaskets. :huh:

Maybe its the hand of the master..... :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 4:14 am 
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Yep, corky was the culprit in a recent leak I have discovered. Permatex hi temp red for me... permatex gooood, cork baaaad......

(actually, I truly suspect the culprit was some previous engine builder laying in the cork gasket with permatex grey on each side, nipping up the bolts, then lettign the sealant cure then FORGETTING to tighten the bolts... Dooooh...) But I'll blame it on corky....

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 11:37 am 
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I really hope you cleaned all the rust off of the cylinder sleeves before you put it together..

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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 12:43 pm 
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ellpee wrote:
Yep, corky was the culprit in a recent leak I have discovered. Permatex hi temp red for me... permatex gooood, cork baaaad......

(actually, I truly suspect the culprit was some previous engine builder laying in the cork gasket with permatex grey on each side, nipping up the bolts, then lettign the sealant cure then FORGETTING to tighten the bolts... Dooooh...) But I'll blame it on corky....


I put the three banger together on a stand, and the cork still started to leak 3 months later...

Corkie bad... Ultra Grey can be such an unforgiving bitch as well. I use either Ultra Black or Ultra Copper for the pans now, or if I can find it The Right Stuff Grey(it's for imports and better handles the close bolt spacing better than the black stuff).

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2011 3:53 pm 
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^^^ For me its red rtv or bust (literally). A lot of ppl think that the different colours just represent different temperature ratings, but if you carefully look at the back of the tube, the manufacturer makes specific recommendations for their use. The red is specifically recommended for oil pumps and other surface seals where oil is the escapee. It is also fine for water/coolant type seals, although I prefer the grey or blue for water pumps etc.

GeoZukiGTi wrote:
I really hope you cleaned all the rust off of the cylinder sleeves before you put it together..


I do plan on it...as I have not put on the head as yet. Good looking out though!

Yesterday I put up the flywheel, clutch assembly and mated the block and the gearbox. I hope this evening to put up the water tube to the block, engine mount brackets and maybe if time allows, start to clean up the wire harness.

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Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Sat May 28, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Went to get my sr20 throttle body today. The guy who told me he had it ended up selling the entire engine and somehow only realized that when I got there. :evil: So I had to spend the next hour or so hunting among the used part places for one at a decent prices. Finally got one for a bargain, as I mentioned that I knew the owner’s son well.

Got home too tired to do anything on the car, but swap across the throttle cable bracket/spring etc and give the throttle body a degreasing. Will take pics tomorrow. I’m hoping to get as much done on the engine as I can....no excuses now! 8)

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PostPosted: Sun May 29, 2011 7:55 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Spent most of this evening with purple blaster in one hand and a toothbrush in the other....pics -
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20409
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20410
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20411

Got some time to give the gearbox and block another coat of 1200* special heat resistant paint:
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20408
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20415

Oh, and I gave the head two coats as well. Here’s a close up of the swirl polishing to the intake side:
gallery/image_page.php?album_id=1060&image_id=20413

I started cleaning up the wire harness also, and am about halfway through that process. Boy am I tired....gonna get some rest now to continue tomorrow.

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~the other Ralph~
Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


Last edited by PBC137 on Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:46 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 1:00 am 
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You will be doing the oil pan gasket again for sure once the car is on the road. These engine were never intended to have a cork gasket installed, and to top that yours is overtightened and pushing out all over the place. Cork can work, but not long term, and always seeps.
Any quality silicone will work nicely. I do at least one engine a week, this is how I know. Your call, but now is the time to fix it right.
Project is looking great by the way. As far as install, leave the extractor off, it easy to bolt up after and will offer you the extra bit of room you need to shift the engine around as it goes in.

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 10:22 am 
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Thanks. I will take your opinion under advisement. The bolts for the oil pan were torqued to spec as per the manual, so they were not overtightened. A cork gasket was used before and after the 800 or so km I put on the engine, there was no sign of leakage. But I will consider removing it and just putting rtv alone.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:51 pm 
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Ok so after the constant bickering of members who obviously have first hand experience with cork gaskets, I removed the cork one today, cleaned up the silicone (damn that was a task) and put new rtv.

The head is sitting on the block now with the new headgasket.....got some new headbolts...the grade of material is superior to automotive strength but they needed a bit of cleaning so I’m soaking them in some gas for a bit and then will torque down the head tomorrow.

Still working on getting the wiring harness to look decent. I’ll try to get to the ecu tomorrow to put on the socket and sandros chip.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:34 am 
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Location: Roumania
I only use Reinz Reinzosil , it's by far the best i've tried, you can also use loctite stuff from the Vag group , it's the white silicone stuff for oil pans.
There was once a german silicone black in a tube under pressure, it was almost like the windshield silicone .

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:06 am 
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Thanks ROV. So this weekend the engine was supposed to have gone in but it didn’t thanks to two last minute purchases (and bank breaking at that), courtesy of another teamswift member....as to what they are, I’ll keep you all in suspense until they are in my possession. All I will say is that my timing belt cannot go on without them. :wink:

So I spent the weekend finishing up the wire harness (thank goodness that’s done!), porting the cultus intake to match the sr20 throttle body, and yes, to satisfy those of you who would e-clout me if I didn’t - removed the cork oil pan gasket, cleaned up the surfaces and just used the red RTV as per instruction.

I also put on the headgasket and the head with new headbolts...not ARP but stronger than automotive grade bolts. I managed to just tighten them by hand since I needed a longer alan socket than the one I had to properly torque them down. I also offered up both the cultus intake and the genie exhaust...they look nice. Need to paint the ex. manifold though.

Pics:
Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:12 am 
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The head is torqued down to circa 50ft.lb. Need to get my cams in later and put on that t-belt!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 11:14 am 
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Location: Roumania
After you start the engine an let it run for a couple of hours, retorque the head to 7 dnm i used 55ft lb on mine but don't reccomend it because you can snap a bolt or somthing.
Retorque it because the headgaskets are really crappy .

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:02 pm 
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Yup, I was planning on doing that. Thanks ROV. The instructions that came with the headgasket actually recommended that. I torqued it down in about 4 stages....hand tightened, 15ftlb, 30ftlb, 45-50ftlb, loosened each by a 90* turn and back to 50ftlb.

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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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