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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:12 pm 
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Thanks for the support...its been an uphill climb for me, that’s for sure. Newfound respect for full-time mechanics do I have! :oops:

Anyway, the engine is turning over fine! YAAAAYYY!

I gapped the spark plugs (.75mm) and put them in. I’ve put up the axles and wheels and the Green Destiny (yeah, that’s what I’ve now christened her) is now sitting on all 4 wheels. My horror-scope (lol) said today was going to be unfavourable so I put off starting the engine until tomorrow, when I hope my luck changes! :razz:

All that is left to do now is put the gear oil in. When she starts and gets running, I have a trip to the exhaust man and the alignment ramp, but first baby steps... :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:28 pm 
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good deal, ralph. :D

i do my alignments in my driveway with a tape measure, a straight board, and a string. last summer before a road trip after doing my brake upgrade and some suspension work, i second guessed myself and took the vert to an alignment shop. the tech told me that it was out 1 mm on the left front and 1 mm on the right rear. i think he just said that so it would look like he did something. :-P

these cars are easy to align. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 6:36 am 
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Location: Roumania
i used ngk plugs on mine , from normal swift gti ones to iridiums to bp6s(no resistor copper plugs) i think and now i use BKR5EK plugs that have two ground electrodes and the center is exposed to the chamber.
The BKr5EK are until now the best that i've used so far, mid to high rpm response.
I recommend using them along with new oem sumitomo ignition wires or better and the msd ss blaster coil new oem dizzy cap and rotor , the facet/beru ones are crappy (i have a beru one or at leas it has beru written on it)and i think they are made in the same factory since they have the same mold pattern and materials (exactly)
That should be the best cost/performance ignition for the swift .

I wanted to ask, are those ngk wires tied together with a metal clamp?

After you fire it up and get it up to temp with some abuse try to get the rigth oil grade,
1 bar at least or more on idle and 5bar+ after 5000 rpm.I'm using 5w40 and on thelast hillclimb after the finish line it has only 1 bar at idle and 4 or something all the way to 8000 rpm so i need a 50 weight. Get a mann filter or better with a pressure valve on it. If you order your filter using the gti code it should have a valve that opens once the filter is clogged or the pressure is to big.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 12:29 pm 
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Oh-oh...big problem now...engine is not starting. Fuel is fine, pulled the plugs and compression is zero across the board....did a wet test, same thing.

The only thing I can think of is perhaps the headbolts...I got new ones, but the top of the bolt shaft close to the head was not tapered (wider) like the original ones. Would this be the cause? Other than that, they torqued down fine, the headgasket is new and put on properly, the pistons were seated fine to the best of my knowledge.

Guess I’ll have to borrow a compressor and perform a lead down test.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 2:17 pm 
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Looking through my crystal bowl , i can see that maybe you have pumped up your lifters a little bit too much and your valves are open just a tiny bit.
Before you tear the head down you can inspect the lifters .
Check your cam timing too.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:40 am 
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I really need to stop second guessing myself. It seems that I do have proper compression, but my compression tester decided to strike on me. What I do not have is spark....I've narrowed it down to either coil or igniter.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 8:49 am 
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PBC137 wrote:
I really need to stop second guessing myself. It seems that I do have proper compression, but my compression tester decided to strike on me. What I do not have is spark....I've narrowed it down to either coil or igniter.


LMAO ... now thats a whole different ball game. Just out of curisoity, what is the static psi/cyl. The spark thingy should be easy to trouble shoot. Its usually one of three
- Dizzy
- Ignitor
- Coil

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 9:12 am 
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MF89 wrote:
PBC137 wrote:
I really need to stop second guessing myself. It seems that I do have proper compression, but my compression tester decided to strike on me. What I do not have is spark....I've narrowed it down to either coil or igniter.


LMAO ... now thats a whole different ball game. Just out of curisoity, what is the static psi/cyl. The spark thingy should be easy to trouble shoot. Its usually one of three
- Dizzy
- Ignitor
- Coil

Cheers



I knew you'd have a good laff on me Colin! :oops:

I didn't check the compression yet...need to borrow a tester from someone first, but with the plugs in and valve cover off, you can hear the compression when the engine turns over.

The dizzy and wires are new, there is no spark coming out of the coil. :(

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:54 pm 
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Updates!!!! 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:19 am 
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None whatsoever, apart from the fact that I'm back to square one. I now have spark (the coil wasn't properly grounded) and fuel for sure...but no compression. I thought it was my gauge but after testing on the JLX, it reads fine. So it's zero compression on the engine....also I find that when trying to start the engine it turns over a bit slower than it used to before the rebuild..and this is on a fully charged battery. The starter was serviced during the rebuild so not sure why the slow cranking.

You can just about hear the compression building in the bottom end, but not feeling much air coming through the spark plug holes....getting air through the pcv valve though.

I've just been too busy with work and other stuff to get down to doing a test to see if I get compression lock....it just seems a daunting task atm and then if the engine doesn't lock under compression....its another task to remove the head! :x :x :x

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MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:03 am 
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Hey, sorry to hear about your woes.... I seems like you are not as enthusiastic as before and trouble shooting such matters could be a bit fustrating. Just hang in there and take your time since its not your daily driver.

Cheers
MF


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 12:54 am 
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have you checked your lifters?
Please do before you pull the head.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 8:28 am 
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Small update.

Still no cigar.

The lifters were fine. I pulled the head and did a test I saw on youtube where the guy turned it over and poured gasoline (of course I used kerosene unlike that idiot) into the valve-bowl area and checked it back in about 5 mins to see if the levels had dropped which would mean an unseated valve or two...however the levels were all fine when I went back.

On observing the two dowels on the head though I noticed one was slightly more raised than the other so I thought well maybe it lifted when I pulled the head so I tried to wiggle it with a pliers but it was not budging. So I tapped it all the way in and gave the other a tap for good measure. Wondering if it was this that perhaps caused the compression leak I put on a new headgasket and paused...what about the piston rings?

Thinking that maybe I should have just changed them when I rebuilt the engine this time around, despite that they only had about 800km on them, I bought a new set of rings (std. size). Why std? Because I checked the ring gap clearance on the old ones and the bores were perfectly within spec according to the manual (a 0.045mm feeler was not passing through, but it was fine with a 0.03mm thickness gauge).

So I didn't bother to hone the cylinder any and put in the new rings. Put up the head without the cams or lifters and cranked it by hand....the crank still turns all the way around and I can hear the air escaping somewhere. The sump was still off so I put a little (about 10ml) of oil into the spark plug hole and tried again...still no compression lock.

I went under the engine and sure enough I'm hearing the air escaping under pressure from the underside of the #1 piston.

Does this mean that a hone is definitely in order, or is the zero compression resulting from no oil in the bore and as such, the rings not sealing properly?

I really want to get this issue sorted before this weekend is over.

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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:31 am 
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get that cigar you want to smoke and light it up , take the spark plugs out and get another dude to turn the starter.
Put the cigar near the spark plug hole, if it blows air out of the engine...it's ok, if it sucks air in through the cam gears are not installed correctly.
Take the cam gears off..install them the right way on the cams and do the timimnig belt :).
I had the same problem on another car...0 compression.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:23 pm 
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An idea just hit me.....I took a mixture of kerosene and oil (remember the kerosene I poured into the valve bowl area....RECYCLED!) and poured in about 1/4 cup of it into the #1 combustion chamber and used a ratchet to turn the crank as fast as I could.....on the second compression cycle I got 60psi and the compression held there for at least a minute or so before I opened the check valve on the tester.

So I’m guessing that I just need to add a little oil into each cylinder and after a few secs crank the engine (using the starter this time of course) and check the respective compression?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:59 pm 
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not a quarter cup! :lol:

for a wet compression test just use a teaspoon of engine oil.

a quarter cup of that swill may just hydrolock the cylinder at starter speed. you could really damage your engine doing that.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Should I put back on the sump and fill the engine with oil again before I do the compression test?

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MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 7:44 am 
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personally, i wouldn't crank the engine at starter speed too much without oil pumping to the main bearings.

after a fresh rebuild to my project engine, it didn't start making good compression until after about an hour of cranking and idle time. it took that long before the new rings even began to seat.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 10:32 am 
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Hey
Since the motor is almost disassembled; I humbly suggest that you start all over from the begining and go again. Take out the piston, rods and reassemble checking all the clearance for:
- ring end gaps
- piston to wall clearance
- ring installation end gaps on the intake and exhaust
- piston ring glands
- block deck levelness
- head surface levelness
- valve seats ( cams out and in )

Cheers
MF


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:46 am 
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Hey Colin,

Thanks for the advice, however I actually did ALL those checks, some prior to assembly like the head and block levelness using a straight edge (both perfect), and the valve seats, which were cut and seated by a professional shop.

When putting on the new rings a couple days ago, I checked the ring lands on all pistons (not the oil rings though....since both #1 and #2 were in proper shape on all pistons. The ring end gaps were also checked as well as the piston to wall clearance.

I will for the sake of being thorough, give the bores a very slight hone, since the rings are new and although std. size, they are pretty tight up in there since the 0.02mm thickness gauge just barely passes through. So I was thinking maybe a 0.002" hone should do fine....just enough to get back a good cross-hatch pattern.

After that I'll re-assemble and crank the shite out of the engine until it starts up!

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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 12:18 pm 
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PBC137 wrote:
...After that I'll re-assemble and crank the shite out of the engine until it starts up!


Sound like a plan ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:31 pm 
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After looking at a bunch of stuff on the internez, I think I know what the issue is....the cylinder walls are glazed and I put on new rings without deglazing! It makes perfect sense now....hopefully I can get everything done over the weekend.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:52 am 
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Ok, this has now become just fcuking frustrating.....put back everything together with new headgasket. After about 20mins of intermittent starting for around 20-30secs at a time, the engine still won't start. The culprit...compression is zero in cylinders 1, 2 and 3, but I'm getting 150 psi in #4.

I've double checked the timing and all three marks line up perfect at TDC on #1. The only thing I can think of again is the 210/340 cams holding the valves open, but even that does not make much sense.

Anyone care to offer an explanation/help please? Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 12:41 am 
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PBC137 wrote:
Ok, this has now become just fcuking frustrating.....put back everything together with new headgasket. After about 20mins of intermittent starting for around 20-30secs at a time, the engine still won't start. The culprit...compression is zero in cylinders 1, 2 and 3, but I'm getting 150 psi in #4.

I've double checked the timing and all three marks line up perfect at TDC on #1. The only thing I can think of again is the 210/340 cams holding the valves open, but even that does not make much sense.

Anyone care to offer an explanation/help please? Thanks.


I doubt very much it is the cams as I used those cams for years without problems. Something else is wrong with the motor. However, to eliminate the cams, try using your std cams. 8)

Are using solid or hydra lifter? are you sure that rings are okay. Have you removed and inspect the pistons and rings?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 7:20 pm 
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PBC137 wrote:
Ok, this has now become just fcuking frustrating.....put back everything together with new headgasket. After about 20mins of intermittent starting for around 20-30secs at a time, the engine still won't start. The culprit...compression is zero in cylinders 1, 2 and 3, but I'm getting 150 psi in #4.

I've double checked the timing and all three marks line up perfect at TDC on #1. The only thing I can think of again is the 210/340 cams holding the valves open, but even that does not make much sense.

Anyone care to offer an explanation/help please? Thanks.


This thread has caught my attention so I will offer a couple bits of advice.

I think you've done everything correctly. Even your rebuild sounds 100% correct. Your issue is probably alot simpler then you may suspect. One thing I noticed in one of your pictures was your distributor timing. Thread dated June 22-2011 the distributor is advanced all the way. I would set it back about half way for the purpose of troubleshooting. Even check the distributor's keyway. I once accidently managed to somehow install the distributor key 180 degrees out. It actually broke the tabs eventually but it did go in.

Secondly your non-existant compression could be a result of fuel from the injectors washing down the cylinders. You might have an injector issue and they are either not spraying (defective or bad electrical connections) or they are so full of grit and grime they are not producing a good spray pattern.

Hope this helps.

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