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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:42 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
If you drive a Hitachi-carburetor version of the Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly Holden Barina, etc. You will eventually need this solenoid.
It is the main thing to go wrong with our carburetors and difficult to obtain.
Previously, I offered them to Teamswift members.
Many Sprints have gone to the junkyard with only this as the problem.
Image
It is #45, 46, and 47 in this diagram:
Image
If your MK1 has lost its great gas mileage, or hesitates during acceleration, this is probably the issue.
If the car refuses to idle once warmed up, this is the likely problem.
If it seems like the car isn't getting enough gas, similar to a fuel pump problem, suspect the MCS.
If it will only run at WOT, start looking for an MCS.
If you have a source for this part, now is the time to stockpile a few, as they are being phased out.
Make sure the barrel of the MCS has the correct number, as other vehicles have similar (but different) units.
Happy hunting!

(Post edited to remove pricing as MCS units are no longer available via usual sources.)

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Sat May 07, 2011 10:02 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 11:14 pm 
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"WOW" thats great phil those are non exsistant parts
Ok I'll be onest I'm not very handy with tools and thing..
How much would you charge me if i gave you a Carburator
To put it in and maybe put in a gasket kit ??
.
.
---GV&S
.
.
.

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:29 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Someone once asked about the bushings on the primary venturis in the throttle body.
If those are worn, the carb will suck air. (Please, Tommy... not yet) Those bushings and the proper sized ream can be had. Right now, it's not in my tool shed. Would make a useless DIY, because I don't think anyone really cares about these old buggys anymore.

:?: :?: :?:

Edited to remove old pricing of rebuilt carbs.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Mon May 09, 2011 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:14 am 
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Phil N Ed wrote:

I've got a few carbs in the garage, I might offer them to Teamswift members at $150 each.

What do you think?



:?: :?: :?:

.
Is that with an exchange ??

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:55 am 
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Location: Saskatchewan
That is so true... My neighbor sold me his carburated MK1 2 years ago for $100 because he taught the motor was shot. My dad replaced the solenoid and the pulloff choke assembly and it ran like new again. Thanks for sharing this with other Teamswift members...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:03 am 
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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
Is that with an exchange ??

Yep.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 3:17 pm 
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Location: Caribbean / PR
Just for curiosity, which are the symptons of a bad solenoid switch in this carburetor? We have a lot of these cars here in PR and I haven't heard of one being torn down due to this.

Let me know. Thanks, luiso16


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:54 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
You can buy a new MCS in PR for about $100 bucks.
The car won't run right once it freezes.
Car might not have the 'power' it should.
Might accelerate roughly.
Might not idle.
It could be just after it warms up, you notice the car won't idle or it might not run except at WOT.
Your mileage will drop as it goes out.
I've experienced all of the above, and they were attributable to a bad MCS.

Many different signs depending on where the MCS plunger freezes.
Ask some local mechanics; they will tell you.
The plunger makes 16 up and down movements per second inside the MCS.
With time, it freezes.
The ECM is what sends the signal to the MCS.
That's why these cars get such great mileage, especially when the MCS is new.
And that's when they have the greatest power.
It is the most common cause of carburetion problems in the NA (carb version) MK1 (85-88 Chevy Sprint) here in the U.S.A.

Just imagine, a plunger is going up and down 16 times a second inside your carburetor.
It's only natural, that after years of action, it will wear out.

If you want to read more about it, you can look in the Service Manual.
They have a lot.
Section 6C tells you with reference to the carb.
Section 6E has reference to driveability and emissions.

It's a little complicated for some mechanics, but not impossible.
Also, it's hard to diagnose if you're not looking for it.
Some people here go to the junkyard and get another carb and try that.

But the root cause is a bad MCS.

If you buy a second hand carburetor, chances are that's what's bad.

A single MCS used to sell for $45, then $85, and last I saw, $180 as our cars become rare, and there is little call for the part.
It should be replaced each time a carb is rebuilt, otherwise you may have the same problem as before.

You rebuild a carb, the car still has loss of power, so you give up, and sell it.

Hope this helps. These cars are great, economical, and fun to drive.
But you do have to maintain them.

Nissan, by the way, uses a similar MCS in their carbs...

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 3:04 am 
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And that Boys and girls is why I have six turbo cars!!

phil you are right when the habatchi carburator for our cars 1984-88 N American Sprint/Forsa work good there hard to beat
with fantastic milage too boot
but at this age (20-25 yrs) there done ..!
It's hard to find a good used MK1 Habatchi carb running today..
If any of us Mk1 Drivers have a good running N/A carb car we should get on are knee's every time we finished driving and Kiss your car and thank the Carb gods that it's running
Because it's just a mater of time these are mechanical devices designed to run but not run long
.
.
.---GV&S
.
.
.

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 9:16 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Just like fuel injectors, MCS's can go the distance. But, you have to change them out every ten years or when they go bad.
Carburetors can last and last and last.
If you let them get too dirty, they will give you problems, and dirty fingers... :D :D :D
Here in the U.S.A. carburetor repairmen are a dying breed, unlike the rest of the world.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:42 pm 
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I hear you there... You cannot find many people who can rebuild or tune a carb properly in Canada either...

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 12:25 am 
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Well, finally found one:
Napa has one for sale:
Part no. CRB219349
Price $199
Link:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... l+Solenoid

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:23 pm 
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I must assume by your experience then , that these solenoids are not servicable ?
Does the winding go bad or does the plunger lock up ?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:47 pm 
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SLICK wrote:
I must assume by your experience then , that these solenoids are not servicable ?
Does the winding go bad or does the plunger lock up ?

Both can occur.
You should use silicone grease on the o-rings when you install the new ones.
PM me for further details.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Phil N Ed wrote:
SLICK wrote:
I must assume by your experience then , that these solenoids are not servicable ?
Does the winding go bad or does the plunger lock up ?

Both can occur.
You should use silicone grease on the o-rings when you install the new ones.
PM me for further details.

.
.
don't hold back if you got more to tell phil please post it.......S
/
/
//

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:34 pm 
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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
Phil N Ed wrote:
SLICK wrote:
I must assume by your experience then , that these solenoids are not servicable ?
Does the winding go bad or does the plunger lock up ?

Both can occur.
You should use silicone grease on the o-rings when you install the new ones.
PM me for further details.

.
.
don't hold back if you got more to tell phil please post it.......S
/
/
//


OK no holding back: :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:

If you are real good...you can rebuild those solenoids.
The accelerator pumps are also rebuildable, and indeed, that's what I normally do.
There's a trick to rebuilding accelerator pumps, and the 'kit' to replace the seal and screen is very reasonable.
On my carbs, if it has a new boot on the accelerator, then I know I've rebuilt the pump.
That's about it.
Nothing left to tell, except, like I said, it's the most common problem with the carb followed by the float level, and then finally the bronze collars/sleeves on the primary butterfly will wear and start to suck air. To fix that, you've got to pull the primary butterflies, and re-bush it.
Similar to Ratfink's 87 Turbo throttle body repair...(q.v.)

The secondaries rarely are problematic.

Vacuum leaks on the different parts of the carb are not covered in this discussion so:
You should be able to find bad
...idle up actuators
...secondary diaphragms
...choke pull offs
...A/C idle up actuators
using a simple vacuum pump with a gauge.

Now you should have enough information to completely rebuild...correctly a Hitachi MR 08 carb commonly found on an MK1 Suzuki 993 cc NA.
Not enough parts, but enough information.
If you rebuild your carb, clean it out, and it hesitates during the normal power band, doesn't have the power it should, or doesn't run the way you know it should, chances are you need to replace this $100 to $200 item.
It may act like the timing is retarded, it might not get you your 48+ miles per gallon.
Chances are it's the MCS.
A $200 part that's not easy to put in: you've got to pull the carb apart.
That's just the way the ball bounces.

I completely rebuilt an engine, 20 over, new pistons, rings, valves, etc.
No leaks, no oil consumption, but really didn't have the power it should...

Told my wife it was the first engine I'd ever done that I wasn't happy with.
Scratched my head. Thought it might be a difference in the cam gears:
Image
Image
Even emailed Suprf1y about it...eventually joined Teamswift trying to figure out what I did which resulted in such a slow engine. I think I read every thread there was...
Finally traced the problem to a bad Mixture Control Solenoid.
Not much written about them.
But when they go bad, it's sometimes hard to diagnose.
And...if you are still confused either buy a car with fuel injection or:


PM me for details............................................... :drunk:

I won't be holding my breath.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:36 pm 
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thanks for the info phil
It's very important to me ...Not for rebuilding a Habatchi carburetor
(i know someone that has the skill).....HA,ha,ha,ha,ha
.
I just want to know as much i can.... so I can trouble shoot it
the more a read and learn the more money a can keep in my pocket for other projects like my vert
.......................................(picture not of my car).............(. .)
.
Image
.
.
.
.
-----GV&S
.
.
..
.
.


.
.

_________________
.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:24 pm 
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Location: Ventura, CA, USA
awsome info guys. like a sponge over.
phil is the man.
thanks phil.
i owe you a handburger. again. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:39 pm 
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2-Stix wrote:
awsome info guys. like a sponge over.
phil is the man.
thanks phil.
i owe you a handburger. again. :D


Buggers?

Boogers?

No handbuggers! :D :D :D

Keep your hands on the wheel!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

And no handboogers, for sure :!: :!: :!:

Just so I know you won't waste my time, I think my $100 price will not include postage.

Much better...you try and put TBI on your MK1...or maybe something like this:

Image

Stromberg 97's anyone???? :?: :?: :?:

(Now TG, now)

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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Edited to remove source for MCS.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Mon May 09, 2011 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Location: Caribbean / PR
Nice find Phil, the MCS is reasonable priced but the kit price seem a little high. But anyway the important deal here is the MCS.

Thanks, luiso16 :D


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:43 pm 
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I'll believe it when i see it..!!!!

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:34 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Update: carbs from Rock Auto are now priced at:

$434.79 plus a core charge of $75.00 for a subtotal of $509.79 and then shipping.

So, if there are more interested in the MCS, send me a PM and maybe I'll do another group buy.

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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:48 pm 
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Due to renewed interest, I am selling these MCS's for $ each.
You will have to send me your old MCS and an additional $ for postage.

Last year they were hard to get.
This year, you can only get one if I get your core first, plus they've raised the price.

Sure hope your carburetor is holding up! Might want to stock up while they're still available!

(edited to delete old price of MCS.)

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DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Mon May 09, 2011 2:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:13 pm 
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Phil N Ed wrote:
Due to renewed interest, I am selling these MCS's for $130 each.
You will have to send me your old MCS and an additional $5 for postage.

Last year they were hard to get.
This year, you can only get one if I get your core first, plus they've raised the price.

Sure hope your carburetor is holding up! Might want to stock up while they're still available!

.

.
.But i'm still in ....Right..??
.
.
Image
.
.


.
.


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