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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:36 pm 
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Location: Cambridge
I would like to try to put together a little Timing Belt (TB) tutorial.
I'm always taking advantage of what other people write,
it's time to pay a little back. I'm new to this so bear with me...

Step 1:
Jack and block the front of the car.
Also remove the lower front right plastic engine splash guard (the one on the bottom, not inside the wheel well) for access.

Step 2:
Gather together a few tools.
These tools are necessary. You may use others as you remove stuck hardware.
Image
The spray bottle has Isospropyl alchohol (IPA) in it.
With air, IPA, and the flashlight I clean things up as I remove parts.
That way I can inspect them and find any problems right away.
With the rags and tape you can block the sparky holes and throttle body.
Image
3/8" drive 17mm socket/extension/ratchet, 1/4" drive 10mm, socket/extension/ratchet,14mm socket and 1/4" handle-driver, 13/16" sparky socket, 10 & 12 mm wrenches

Step 3:
Move everything out of the way.
Remove the aircleaner housing and the spark plugs (easier to turn the engine over). We'll get to the TB cover next
Image
(This is my post-mod TB 1/2 cover, there are some pics of the process in my gallery)
Image
In order to get the timing belt cover off easier, remove the water pump pulley. You can use the strap wrench later to hold the water pump while
backing off the bolts if the belt doesn't hold it.
To remove the accessory belt loosen the 3 attach bolts for the alternator
and rock it toward the front of the car.
You must also remove the crank pulley ( the big wheel at the bottom). I
used the ratchet combinations seen in toolset picture 2 to undo the four
10mm bolts holding the pulley on. The top "X" indicates where the top
half of the TB cover would normally be)

Here is a picture inventory of parts removed. As you can see I was also
changing the plug wires and dizzy at the time.
Image

Step4;
Image
Now you have access to the timing belt. Loosen Number 1 and 2 bolts,
and slide the tensioner all the way toward the water pump and retighten
number 2 temporarily. Slide the timing belt off.


Step 5:
Synchronize the crank and cam pulleys.
Image
By using the 17mm socket/ratchet you can turn the crankshaft (clockwise) to the #1 TDC compression position. I used the threaded pipe
at the bottom of tool set picture 2 to check compression. It just threads right into the #1 sparky hole. Then you can use your finger as a
pressure gauge to feel for pressure as you turn the engine over.

If there is pressure as the crankshaft sprocket key approaches the mark on the block then you are on the compression stroke and TDC is when the key and the guide mark are together.

Use the same socket to turn the camshaft until the appropriate marks are lined up.

Once your engine looks like the diagram, slide the timing belt on, reset the tensioner the belt and tighten bolts 1 and 2.

Step 6:
At this point I put the crank pulley back on with just two bolts and fired
her up for a few seconds just to make sure that the timing wasn't
drastically wrong.

When everything checks out you can remove the crank pulley,
install the the timing belt cover, reinstall and torque the crank pulley,
reinstall and torque the water pump pulley and reinstall the accessory belt.
Finally reinstall the air cleaner and sparkies.
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:23 pm 
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Just a suggestion - turn the engine over until the timing marks line up before you remove the tensioner and the timing belt.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 12:46 am 
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Yeah, that would make things easier. My belt was so shredded it didn't occur to me.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 12:27 pm 
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Location: Milwaukee
Is that a NON-OEM valve cover, mine doesn't look like that?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:08 am 
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Maybe because the engine is from the Japanese Domestic Market it looks different from the ones here.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:06 pm 
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How much different is the proceedure on a G13 engine? I have never attempted it, but the last guy to do mine really f@*Ked it up. I had to take it back 3 times to get the timing right. I"m a believer that sometimes you can do a better job yourself with the right information. I am always bowed up and have to get someone else to do it.

MAX


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:00 pm 
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the g13 sohc engines are exactly the same;
the g13b dohc engine is only slightly more difficult as you have 2 cam timing gears to deal with. you also need to make sure all the timing marks are lined up before you remove the timing belt and take care not to rotate the engine/cams after it's off as it's an interference engine and you can bang the valves.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 8:12 am 
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Cool!
Thanks for the info. Looks very do-able for me, wish the last guy who put it in for me could have read this post.

SKOAL!
MAX


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:44 pm 
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might be a good idea to replace the tensioner at the same time.
they do fail - I found out the hard way.

For 3 days my mk1-t3 was running sluggish with no boost - I thought my turbo had kicked it. I checked the turbo thinking it was wacked - seemed fine, but still no boost. Fuel and spark was ok, so I decide to check timing belt.

Sure enough the tensioner had seized and jammed causing friction slowing my motor down enough to produce a no boost situation.

Going home last night from work the belt jumped some teeth - car died. Anyway, returned later that night after going home to get tools and parts and changed the belt and tensioner in a parking lot a record 20 mins @-5 degrees last night. (didnt put the cover back on though...just wanted to get it going - I'll finish up in my garage.)

TIP...the cover will come off with only removing 3 bolts on the waterpump pulley, just back off the last one without taking it off. its easier to put back on that way you wont have to try to line up holes blind.

Can someone post a pic of the tensioner assembly?
is the little adjustment tang supposed to go in the small hole or the odd shaped larger opening on the back of the tensioner?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:33 pm 
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The picture above in the begginning of this post should be enough for your to see how it bolts in.

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"I also love the 7500 rpm scream of a DOHC" :razz: 2X 1989 Swift GTi's a 92 and Jr's new 93 GT

Keep your eye on the boost guage!
And I love this one!
"Dale Jarrett's crew chief" "Drive it like ya STOLE IT!"
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:48 pm 
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Knuckles wrote:
The picture above in the begginning of this post should be enough for your to see how it bolts in.


doesnt show the back of the tensioner in any photo, doesnt mention removing the tensioner either.

The little tang didnt seem to fit in the small round hole, maybe it got mangled a bit.

gt service manual states it should go into the small hole / is the g10 different?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:51 pm 
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The tang goes in the small hole for leverage, in order for the spring to properly tension the whole assembly.


Chris


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:55 pm 
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CJDavE wrote:
The tang goes in the small hole for leverage, in order for the spring to properly tension the whole assembly.


Chris


I guess the tang got somewhat bent up in the mess or maybe I was just rushing to get out of there so it seemed like it didnt fit.

thanks

Tom


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:09 am 
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How do you get the AC belt off ?

I can't seem to find the bolts that hold the compressor on the brackets. Probably need to access from below... ??? :huh:


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:18 pm 
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The AC tensioner pulley moves by loosening/tightening a bolt that runs through the stationary part of the tensioner. Look underneath and you should see it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:52 pm 
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tc2468 wrote:
TIP...the cover will come off with only removing 3 bolts on the waterpump pulley, just back off the last one without taking it off. its easier to put back on that way you wont have to try to line up holes blind.

Thats a good tip as i found it hard to get one started.

CAUTION: check the pulley alignment just prior to installing the belt. Somehow mine moved overnight.

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the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:13 pm 
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this pic of my 91 metro cam sprocket may help as some cars have a spoked design.
Attachment:
camSproket91metro.jpg


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:00 pm 
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CJDavE wrote:
The AC tensioner pulley moves by loosening/tightening a bolt that runs through the stationary part of the tensioner. Look underneath and you should see it.


Not all installations have an a/c tensioner pulley - mine is adjusted by rocking the compressor in the same way as you would the alternator

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:11 pm 
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Thank You for the Timing Index drawing...... My T-belt broke and Chiltons Manuals (SUCK) only say to line up Index marks but do not show or explain the location of Marks. I suspected that it was as you had drawn it but did not want to install belt without confirming it first.

Ps Just joined after finding this thread through Google.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:03 am 
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WOW I DID IT! Thanks a million great post on timing. I just put on a new head I had a burnt valve on the old. Never did this before was a little scared on the timing the book I got was not very good. But your post filled in the blanks for me. I know hope to get another 100,000 out of my little girl.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:09 am 
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yep thats what teamswift is for

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Hey Guys,

I have a 93 Geo Metro Convertible and I want to replace the timing belt. I'm trying to find the right one on ebay but they have "4 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" and "5 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" Belts. How can I find out which one I need?

Thanks a lot guys!

Jaxx


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:20 pm 
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Jaxx wrote:
Hey Guys,

I have a 93 Geo Metro Convertible and I want to replace the timing belt. I'm trying to find the right one on ebay but they have "4 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" and "5 Bolt Hole/Sprocket" Belts. How can I find out which one I need?

Thanks a lot guys!

Jaxx


You look at the crankshaft pulley and count the bolts.

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'98 2.0 Grand Vitara


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:53 pm 
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ok, so how do you advance timing without a timing light? and how do you determine if a tensioner is bad?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:59 pm 
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1. You turn the distributor cap away from you. Listen to the engine. It'll sound best when the timing is set appropriately. Then listen for pinging when you're accellerating under load. If you hear pinging, back the timing off.

2. You'll hear it. It's loud.

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