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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:19 pm 
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Here is my transmission and clutch removal guide for you to enjoy. Make sure you are working on a clean, concrete surface since you will be lying directly on your back with no room for a creeper unless you are an anorexic. First thing you need to do is jack up the driver side front until the tire is at least 4" off the ground and place a jack-stand securely under the frame. Give it a good shakin' (without denting the body -lol-) to make sure the car is safe because you will be directly under the car and nobody wants to die unless you think you can bench-press a Metro.

Start off under the hood and..........

Remove battery (2 10MM nuts)
Remove battery tray (3 14MM bolts)
Remove the speedometer cable (remove clip and pull)
Remove clutch cable (14MM nut)
Remove clutch cable bracket (2 12MM bolts)
Unplug reverse light connector (duh)
Remove ground cable and clean it (14MM bolt)
Reference pic below..................

Image

Now you are done under the hood for now. Next thing is to get to the axle shaft removal.

Drain the transmission (3/8 ratchet)
Remove the LF tire (4 19MM)
Remove the brake caliper and pads (12 MM)
Remove the axle nut with a impact wrench (1 1/4 nut)
Push in axle shaft to see if it's free

Image

Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (14 MM bolt)
Use a chisel to spread the pinch area and pound down on the control area to separate.

Image

Pull the complete knuckle outwards and push axle through until free
Use a prybar and pop out the axle shaft and set aside

Image

Now it is time to get under the car and here is where all the fun starts. First thing is to place a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. If you are lucky enough to have an engine sling, then use it. Jack the engine/trans assembly up slightly to take tension off the mounts.

Directly behind the trans under the car, you will find the shift rod linkage and the brace. These may look like ordinary bolts and nuts, but I found out removing these were actually the hardest part of the entire job! These are actually pins going through a bushing and if they are seized up, use lots of penetrating oil and strike the housing part (eye) many times with a hammer to break up the rust. The shift rod link a double joint (not the kind you roll) and you can take it off from either location. Heat is not recommended and don't even try whacking the threaded side with a hammer unless you have a nut on it flush.

Image

After getting this far, it's time for a short break to collect your senses and thoughts so you don't screw up.

Ok, so lets get this transmission out now. Remember all that fun you had removing the shift rod? Get back under there and directly above it, you will see the rear mount from the firewall to the trans.

Remove the 2 lower nuts from mount (2 14MM)
Remove the bushing bolt and nut and remove that bracket piece (14 MM)
Remove the trans mount bolts and remove from trans (3 14MM)
Use the floor jack holding engine to help you.
While there, remove the one bell housing nut below starter (14 MM nut)
Get out of there and remove the rear brace where battery was (3 14MM bolts)

Image

Before removing the rest, look on the steel coolant tube and remove the bolt going to the trans case. It's easy to miss this and you don't want to break that tube.

Under car remove bell housing flywheel plate (2 10 MM bolts)
Top of car, remove the starter (2 12 MM bolts)
Make sure you removed bell housing nut under starter on earlier step (14 MM)
Remove 3 remaining bell housing bolts (3 14 MM)
Lean over car and grab trans (like you love it) and begin carefully wiggling the trans loose from the engine and use a pry-bar to help pry away from block. Stop part way out and go back under the car and pop the other (right) axle shaft. Finish yanking and carefully set it on the ground or get help from someone if you are not as buff as me :rolleyes:

Now remember in step #1 I mentioned jacking the car so the tire is at least 4" off the ground? If you didn't, the trans won't clear and you will have the engine on a piece of wood and be attempting to raise the car. Good luck with that.

Image

Image

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Now it is time for the clutch. This is gravy work now. Hopefully you got all the proper parts and supplies like a brand new -=Sachs=- Clutch kit and 3 quarts of Synchromesh trans oil from Pennzoil, GM, or Castrol. The shop I work at only uses the best products and that is what I used.

Image

Replace throwout bearing on trans side
Remove the old clutch (6 12 MM bolts)
Replace the pilot bearing from flywheel (I made a tool)
If you want to resurface, then remove the flywheel instead. I simply used a medium grit Roloc and carefully scuffed mine. These engines have like 55 HP so I am 100% sure this was sufficient.

Image

Use the alignment tool provided with the kit and verify which way the clutch faces. Install the clutch and pressure plate and use threadlocker on the clutch bolts. Draw them down evenly and get them tight. Use torque specs if you want from a manual. As you are tightening, wiggle the guide tool and make sure clutch is centered.

Image

This is what I have accomplished so far. My junkyard replacement trans is at the shop awaiting new axle shaft seals because I don't want any leaks at all. It is also going to get a bath in the parts washer and maybe even paint if I feel like throwing some "Kentucky Chrome" on it. I will post some installation pics possibly tomorrow or the weekend and let you all know how it goes.

There is so much more fun stuff to do to this car.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:55 pm 
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I gotta say this Johnny - this is your second "how to" - and I like your style, well documented, and this time clear pics.

Way to go.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:09 pm 
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My camera does not like poor lighting even with the flash. This was done at home in the sunlight and the pics came out better. Thanks.

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  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:20 am 
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Location: Vancouver
Nice job on the "how-to"! That would have been awesome to have when I took my tranny out for the first time... But I'm sure I'll get to use the tutorial aagian this summer when I take it out again :roll: :cry:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:48 am 
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I agree with fordem, this one is better than the other one because of the pictures being clearer.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:27 pm 
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Forgot these of the trans with a fresh coat of silver paint "Kentucky Chrome" and then installed.

Image

Image

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:48 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
You totally don't need to remove the axle nut... both halfshafts can be attached to the knuckles while you do this. I've done a trans removal several times with no removal of axle nuts. It's a little awkward to make sure the shaft is in the right spot, but it saves you havin' to break out the impact hammer... In fact, i see you removed the brake caliper and pads aswell... again, unnecessary. If you just remove the two bolts that mount the strut to the knuckle, all this becomes superfluous, and you are left with your knuckle intact. It's connected by the brake line, and that's it, so it's easy to maneuver the knuckle to position the shaft.

This thread has an excellent write up, albeit lacking in those quality pics that yours had. I've used this walkthrough whenever i've done tranny work, and it's quite efficient.

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=82299#82299

Anyways, good write up, other than those unnecessary steps :D

Kyle


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:27 pm 
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Just my five cents here...

when you removing transmission (following either method) do yourself a favour - after you have sucsessfuly removed all
transmission bellhousing bolts & nut (14mm x5) - sprinkle wastefully inside holes with WD40 or any other type of "liquid wrench" or something. go for a beer or a smoke - than start a "pry-bar job" to help pry away from block. When you got about an quater of inch distance at least somewhere sprinkle some more and go for another smoke. Than pry again and it (transmission) will jump in your hands.

In my particular case the pilot sleaves were rusted/limed and didn't want my transmission let go. they were so stubborn that I were prying and swearing for 5 hours before I figured out to water them with WD40. then in 10 min all was done.

Hope it'll help.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2009 12:32 am 
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Location: Northeast Kingdom, VT
Got a couple of questions:

Why did you remove the clutch cable bracket? Is there a clearance issue?

Now there seem to be two trains of thought here regarding the best way to separate the drive axle from the trans. If I'm reading correctly, in both cases the tie rod is not disconnected:

Image

It seems like that is going to limit the amount of movement you have regardless of whether you disconnect the caliper or the strut. Is there anyone who has done it both ways? Which way did you find was easiest? Looking at that picture I just can't see the difference between the two with the tie rods in place.

I took a couple of pics of the shift linkage and also the ball joint pinch clamp before being taken apart:

Shift linkage:

Image

Ball Joint Clamp:

Image

One more question: the car is a rebuilt salvage. I'm taking the transmission out because the bearings are making noise. I really didn't want to because the case has road rash:

Image

I really do not like the idea of taking it apart but I have no choice. Should I try to track down a case from another trans or can I get away with using sealant on the case seam? It wasn't leaking before and isn't now. That drip on the good bolt is from draining the fluid.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:42 pm 
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Location: Northeast Kingdom, VT
Some comments:

Removing the caliper is not necessary unless of course you want to change the pads too but it would save wear and tear on your brake hose. I don't know that leaving it connected to strut would be a good idea either as you need the room to move the axle out. You don't need a spring compressor to do this, just the two bolts holding it need to be removed. The tie rod stays connected.

I had to gently use the rounded part of a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to gently coax the axle out of the trans. Keep the sharp point as far away from any rubber boots as you can. Once it starts moving, it will come right out.

Clutch cable bracket is still attached. I don't see any reason to remove it at this point. In fact it may help with the reinstall by providing an attachment point for a come along to hold the trans for me. This is a solo effort so this might make up for the lack of extra hands.

I will replace the case. Just as easy as getting it welded and probably cheaper.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:22 am 
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Quote:
Should I try to track down a case from another trans or can I get away with using sealant on the case seam?

You should try and track down another case. Once you split it, I don't thing you'll be able to get it to seal like in the 'old days'.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:42 am 
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Location: Northeast Kingdom, VT
Hi Phil,

Thanks. Good point. The shop that rebuilt the car had me check out the damage before they put it in. We talked about it and rather than put the money into another transmission, we figured that since the case wasn't leaking, the odds were I was going to drive the car for years before I would ever need to take the trans out, if ever. Of course the input bearing started making noise on the ride home. Go figure, right? =)

I ended up taking the motor and trans out together and have them separated now. I am considering installing them separate, transmission first, then fitting the engine to it. If I do it this way, I can easily fit the axles back in, attach the trans to its mounts and then lower the engine gently to mate with it with my hoist. Being supported by the hoist I can use one arm to rotate the crank to get the splines to match up. Still thinking on it though. It's a little hairy with the hoist when I had both engine and trans coming out. Any thoughts on this?

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1996 Geo Metro Lsi 1 L, 5 sp, 1000 Miles


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:55 pm 
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Way wrote:
Any thoughts on this?


Yeah, two.

First: If you are working alone, you might try to lift the front of the car, and slip the engine/transaxle combo in from underneath. It's a bit easier, and not as hairy as dangling the whole mess 6 feet in the air.
If you've got the set up, fine, but if not, slipping it in from below is slower, but safer. You will need to clear all the suspension, but if you don't have the manifolds on, it's a piece of cake. Measure it first to be sure.

Second: Deebee came down from Oregon and wanted to learn to split a case. So we set a pallet on 4 upside down trash cans, put the case on top, and using hand wrenches took 60 minutes working slowly to completely take apart the transaxle. He stopped along the way so I could take pictures, but you can read all about it here:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=42589

So if you decide to get any junker tranny and split the two cases, you should be OK. Just follow that thread; there are no tricks. The second tranny should take you about 20 minutes to split...honestly.
It's also a good idea to replace the input shaft seal while you've got the cases split. It's a cheap seal, but it can ONLY be changed from inside the case.
Not trying to hijack Mullet the Man's thread, but once you get the trans out, you might need to split your case. So there's a link on how to do it, complete and with expert comments from our friends in the Southern Hemisphere, who can split those cases in 10 minutes!


Sorry you ran into transaxle problems. Just like a bad engine, a bad transaxle can ground a car, too.
Nice rust free car, by the way.
And nice pictures!

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 8:28 pm 
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Hmm, interesting thought. I've got the car raised per Johnny's recommendation but I added an inch so it's 5 inches from the bottom of the tire (tire's off at this point). I have the jacks to do it just don't know if they can lift the car high enough or if the jack stands will be steady with the frame at that angle. It's an SUV jack so if that's not high enough, it's on to plan B.

That is an awesome thread Phil, congrats. :sunny:

I don't think this is a hijack as long as we keep to the subject of the transmission. Somebody reading this thread hopefully will have many questions answered without going through a search.

I do want to note that I dropped the control arm on the passenger side per fordem's recommend and I think it helped a lot. I also tied up the hubs on both sides to the spring to keep pressure off the brake hoses.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 4:07 pm 
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Phil N Ed wrote:
It's also a good idea to replace the input shaft seal while you've got the cases split. It's a cheap seal, but it can ONLY be changed from inside the case.


Same goes for the shift shaft seal and bellows - those are changed from outside the case, but you have to split the case to get the shaft out to do it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:03 am 
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I will definitely get the seals and bellows. I learned my lesson. : (

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 4:44 pm 
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this is probably the wrong place for this question but will the gearbox from a 1.0 3cly sohc g10a suzuki swift fit and work onto a 1.3 g13b swift gti engine block? amy help on the engine change would also be appreciated cheers!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:34 pm 
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Yes, it will fit, but you might want to think about it first.
If you want information on engine and transmission swaps, most here will ask you to search first.
There is a whole section devoted to that.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:55 pm 
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First - JohnnyMullet, thank you man! This is a fantastic write up which no doubt has helped many. Thanks also to all of you contributing with the helpfull advice.

I will be atempting to change my clutch in the new year. First time im tackling such a job :oops: so i have 2 main questions.

1 - This how-to is for a 95-2000 car but how much of it is relavent to my 1990 swift gti?

2 - My gti is a U.K. right hand drive car. Dose this change the transmition/clutch changing procedure?

Thanks for any help guys

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:04 pm 
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The 1990 Swift will be similar to the 1995+ guide I posted. There may be a few different bolt locations and whatnot, but overall, you should be fine.

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  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:24 am 
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Thanks 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:58 am 
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ive been having a hard time finding a manual tranny for my 2001, but i have finally found a 97 in the yard think it will be similar?? or capable?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:13 am 
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If its a four cylinder. All 95-01 transmissions will interchange and work, but there's a pretty big difference in gear ratio between three and four cylinder.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:37 pm 
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Axle nut is actually 30mm; that socket will work better than 1 1/4" at removal and tightening. Also recommend replacing them if you do remove them, around 4 bucks a piece.
Otherwise an awesome tutorial, very helpful, thanks!!! :goodpost:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:55 pm 
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Hey this is a great thread, but let me save you some time, you don't need to pull the brake calipers, just leave them in place. You have plenty of room to pull the half axle out of the transmission, if you are using the same axles, you don't even need to pull the axle nut. I just got up under the transmission and put a screw drive in between the half axle and the case, and they pop right out. Just did this on two of mine, I'm switching engines and transmissions, in the two cars. Hope this helps someone.

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