I got tired of reading tons of diff threads asking how to swap the 1.3sohc to a 1.3dohc so i found this. This IS NOT mine. I am just posting it so people wont have to search throught the TONS of diff threads about this subject. Credit to http://www.ssgti.net
In order to do this you will require the following:
- G13B motor that is complete (except tranny) (you'll need the alternator too)
- GT throttle cable
- Various hoses (fuel and cooling system hoses)
- The engine wiring harness and the main electrical harness which goes up to the headlights and in behind the dash
- Exhaust (you may have to decide what to do here whether you install it yourself or get a shop to do it)
- An ECM for a G13B.
- GT ignition coil (get the whole thing! Including the little ignitor on the bottom bracket!)
- If your tranny is an automatic (not recommended at all) you'll need the control module for that as well
- Some sort of lifting device either a cherry picker or an A-frame with a come-along.
- Two 4' pieces of chain
Some other nice things you'll need to have, but aren't all required:
- Patience and a bit of time depending on your mechanical skills and knowledge of Suzuki's
- A new clutch
- New spark plugs, cap & rotor, and ignition wires.
- A few small boxes for nuts and bolts and the 'where does this go?' parts
- Hand cleaner and rags
- Tools : 8mm - 17mm wrench's and sockets and a few screw drivers
- Fluids (new oil and filter, coolant, tranny fluid)
- A metric tap and die set
- Penetrating oil (wd40)
- A couple of buddies
The best place to find alot of this stuff is at your local wrecking yard. '89-'91 GTi's use different wiring then '92-'94's so you will have to find an appropriate year. All parts are interchangeable except for the wiring harnesses.
If you don't have access to a cherry picker you can make an A-frame with four 2x4's and two 2x12's. Just make sure it is sturdy and can handle around 500lbs. I used an A-frame with basically a ratcheting device which hooks on either end and a cable that extends out of it.
First things first! Safety! Watch your fingers and your toes. If anything lets go or drops let it go and get out of the way. It is only a car and it can be replaced. Fingers, toes, and body parts don't grow back. Next thing is to shampoo your old engine and tranny! There is nothing worse then getting all greasy and dirty if you don't have to. Especially if you cut yourself it would be nice to keep the cuts clean.
Start by marking the bolts that hold your hood onto the hood hinges with a black marker; this will make it easier to aim the hood later when you are done. Once you have the bolts marked remove them and lift the hood off. When doing this it is alot easier if you have another body around to hold one side of the hood as you unbolt the other. After you have the hood off start by removing the battery and battery tray. There is a bolt hidden under the battery tray that is a bit tricky to get at but it will come out. Be sure to use WD40 or some other type of penetrating oil on any rusty or tight bolts as it doesn't take much to snap them.
Once you have the battery and tray out of the way you will have to remove the rad fan and the radiator. Start by removing the rad hoses (upper and lower) and then the two bolts on top and there is one on the bottom of the rad that holds the fan to rad aswell. Once that is out of the way it is best if you remove the air cleaner assembly to gain access to the back side of the engine.
When the air cleaner is out of the way start by disconnecting the engine harness from the engine. Just work your way around the engine unplugging all the sensors you can find and don't forget about the connections at the alternator and starter. On the starter all that is required to be unplugged is the little spade connector not the battery lead. The battery lead can be unplugged at the fuse box inside the engine bay it is much safer to do it there as the stud it bolts onto at the starter is also known for snapping when a wrench is applied.
With the harness out of the way you will have to disconnect the clutch cable, speedometer cable, and throttle cable. After all the cables out of the way you will have to disconnect the fuel hoses and heater hoses. Use caution on the fuel hoses there can be some pressure still in there and fuel can spray out. It is time to start disconnecting things under the car. You should jack up the car and support it on jack stands (remember to block the rear wheels!!! don't depend on the handbrake). You will have to disconnect the front exhaust pipe at the manifold and the shifter linkage and guide bar.
After all this is disconnected you will have to pop out both driveshafts. I recommend just unbolting the lower ball joint and popping it out. You'll need a hammer and a long pry bar or a ball joint tool to get it out. When the ball joint separates from the spindle use the pry bar to pry the driverside shaft out of the tranny and on the passenger side there is an intermediate shaft. You'll have to pop the drive shaft out of the intermediate shaft. It isn't vary hard you should be able to get them out by hand. When you pull out the driver's side you'll lose alot of tranny fluid so have a pan under it to get the oil.
Once the shafts are out it is time to start hoisting the engine. Bolt one of the chains to opposite corners of the engine. There should be 'lifting brackets' on the motor if not find something very sturdy on the motor to wrap the chain around and bolt each end-link of the chain back to the chain. Wrap the other chain around the 2X12 if you are using an A-frame and hang the come-along from this chain. The other end of the come-along is connected to the chain on the engine. Crank up the come-along until there is SOME tension on it. SOME tensions means that you ARE NOT lifting the car off of the stands (if it is on stands).
When you have some tension on the chain begin by unbolting the rear middle engine mount. You just have to remove the long bolt that runs right through it from side to side. After this bolt is out start on the one in front of the tranny. You'll have to take out all the small bolts holding the black splash cover on and then remove the long center bolt. Be very careful at this point the engine may drop a bit when this bolt comes out so watch your fingers!. If you find it wants to drop alot then give the come-along a few cranks. Once that bolt is out move over to the passenger side and either remove the long center bolt holding that mount in place or the 2 bolts connecting that mount to the engine bracket. Once that is done and out of the way begin hoisting. Only raise the engine enough to clear the front cross member.
If anything should happen while lifting for eg) the A-frame collapses or the chain breaks DON'T try and save it. Let it go. It isn't worth it for you to hurt yourself. You can always correct the problem after it falls if it falls. Just take your time and don't be in a hurry.
After the engine is out back the car up and lower the old engine down. You may need some parts off of it depending on how complete the G13B motor is that you have eg: engine mounts/brackets, some sensors are shared. You may also want to thoroughly clean or paint your engine bay at this time while the motor is out of the way.
You'll need to transfer your transmission and intermediate shaft over to your new motor. I also recommend installing a NEW clutch at this time. You might as well since you are there and it is a pain to do it later.
Re-installation is the reversal of the removal with the exception of the exhaust and battery; leave it out for now. The exhaust is totally different so you will most likely have to go to a muffler shop for this work unless you have new exhaust to bolt on.
It is easier to install the engine harness before you drop the engine in. The G13B can be a bit tricky to get your arms around so I would do this before hand.
Once you get the engine in, all put back in and bolted in the real fun begins and the hard part is over. You will have to remove the other main harness and install the one from a GT. There are serious differences in the plugs BELIEVE ME I KNOW!. In order to remove this harness you'll have to remove the plastic lining inside the fender wells to get the headlight stuff out. Start at the wiper motor and work your way back from there. When it is all unplugged work it into the fender well and then into the car. You WILL have to remove the dash in order to completely get it out. Believe it or not it takes about 10 mins to get the dash out. It would be very helpful if you have a shop manual available that shows where all the screws are but there aren't that many. You'll have to remove the steering wheel and turn signal-wiper controls completely to get the dash off. Just take your time and have a box for all the screws so you don't lose any.
When the dash is out you can remove the ECM at this time and install the new one. Remove the rest of the wiring and begin installing the new one. The plugs should all be 'keyed' so you can't plug the wrong one in some where it shouldn't go. Watch out for the turn signal flasher and the brake light switch. They are the same style and will plug into one another and they are very close to each other. There are a few others it may be helpful to mark your old harness as to what was plugged into what so you can look at and see. Most of the plugs are the same but there are a few that are different. When you get all the wiring back in and the dash reinstalled you should install the new fluids oil, coolant, and tranny fluid.
You'll have to 'burp' the cooling system which means get all the air out. It is best if you fill it and start the car and let it warm up. Also check to make sure the cooling fan comes on when it reaches the operating temperature. When the cooling system is bled it is time to tune. For that it is best of you consult a mechanic and have the timing checked.
The best advice I can give when doing something like this is to take your time and be careful. If you work away at it you will complete the job and chances are you will prevail. A few buddies are always good to have around to help you with it. After all someone has to make the food runs and drive you to the local dealer to get parts you've overlooked.
The intention of this article is to give the reader an idea of what is involved in changing their engine. It is by no means a guide or a complete set of instructions on how to complete an engine change. The author/SSGTi.com takes no responsibility for damage or loss as a result of someone attempting a project like this. Things of this nature are best left to experienced people with the equipment and knowledge to do the job.