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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 4:21 am 
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Location: Atlanta GA 30052
Cars with an Electronic Control Manager try to sense problems and notify the operator with the Check Engine Light.
OBD2 codes began in 1995-6 for most cars. They can be read with a $30 scan tool. Some parts stores will read the codes for you but they don't like to mess with OBD1 cars.

How to read the OBD1 code when the CHECK ENGINE light comes on in a 1986-95 Swift.
Insert any fuse in the raised empty spare fuse slot in the fuse panel under the driver side dash.
Attachment:
Picture 5.png


Turn key on, but do not start engine. The check engine light will begin to flash.
Attachment:
Picture 3.png


Instead of the fuse slot you can use a wire to connect terminal B (#4 in following diagram) to terminal D (ground) on the Monitor Coupler which is under the hood on the firewall harness by the left front strut.
Attachment:
Picture 6.png


These are the OBD1 codes for 86-95 Swifts.
(Followed by related info on the ECM)
(Followed by detailed explanations of ALL OBD1 codes)

Code 12 (1 flash, pause, 2 flashes)
Diagnostic Mode: This Code will flash whenever there are no other codes.
Attachment:
OBD-A for Swifts.png

Attachment:
OBD-B.jpeg

Attachment:
OBD-C.jpeg


This is a generic list for all makes and models with explanations:

Code 12
1 flash, pause, 2 flashes
Diagnostic Mode: Sometimes will flash whenever there are no other codes. Or sometimes at the beginning of other codes.

Code 13
1 flash, pause 3 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 30 seconds when the TPS signal was above 0.55 volts. The engine had been running for at least 40 seconds with an engine temperature above 110° F.

Code 14
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 284° F for 4 seconds after the engine had been running for at least 10 secondsCoolant Sensor Circuit (high temperature) If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.

Code 15
1 flash, pause, 5 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit (low temperature) Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -36° F for at least 4 seconds after the engine had been running for 2 seconds. See above, then check wiring connections at the ECM

Code 16
1 flash, pause, 6 flashes
Charging system voltage was either below 9 volts or above 17 volts for 10 seconds. System High Voltage If the voltage is above 17.1 volts for more than 2 seconds, the Service Engine Soon light will illuminate. Have the charging system checked.

Code 17
1 flash, pause, 7 flashes
PCM did not detect any spark reference pulses within 240 fuel control reference pulses (80 crank revolutions) while engine was running below 1200 RPM. Spark Reference Circuit.

Code 21
2 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Throttle Position Sensor, TPS voltage was above 0.8 volts for 5 seconds when engine was running and air flow was less than 15 gm/sec, or the TPS voltage was over 4.8 volts at any time.

Code 22
2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Throttle Position Sensor check TPS adjustment. Replace the TPS sensor. TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 4 seconds when the ignition was on. Check for a sticking, or mis-adjusted throttle position sensor.

Code 23
2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -29° F for 4 seconds. Manifold Air Temperature. Check the MAT sensor, wiring, and connectors for a possible open circuit. replace the MAT sensor.

Code 24
2 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Vehicle speed sensor signal showed less than 3 MPH for 2 seconds when engine speed was greater than 3000 RPM and transmission has not been in park or neutral for more than 4 seconds. Or vehicle speed goes from above 18 MPH to 0 in less than 2 seconds without applying brake. This code can only appear when the vehicle is in motion, if it appears when the car is not in motion, ignore it. Check ECM connections, any other problems should be diagnosed by a qualified mechanic.

Code 25
2 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of over 218° F for 5 seconds when vehicle speed was greater than 35 MPH. Check the voltage between the MAT sensor and the ECM. voltage should be above 4 volts.

Code 26
2 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-Driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present, or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present for at least 5 seconds when the engine was running. Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 27
2 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
2nd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 2nd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started. Gear switch Diagnosis Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 28
2 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
3rd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 3rd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 29
2 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
4th gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 31
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
PRNDL indicates a gear other than park or neutral for 13 seconds for 3 consecutive startups when ignition was on, engine was off and vehicle speed was 0. Or the PRNDL status indicators (A, B, C, P) showed an incorrect combination of Lo and Hi for more than 10 seconds.
Check all connectors, and for a faulty switch.

Code 32
3 flashes, pause 2 flashes
EGR System Check vacuum hoses and connections for leaks and restrictions. Replace the EGR solenoid or valve.

Code 33
3 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
MAF Sensor Have the mass air flow sensor replaced.

Code 34
3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running. Check for loose or damaged air duct, misadjusted minimum idle speed and cacuum leaks. Inspect the MAF sensor and the electrical connections.

Code 38
3 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
The Torque Converter Clutch portion of the brake switch was open and caused the TCC to be inoperative, adjust OR replace switch.

Code 39
3 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
Torque Converter Clutch Check ECM connections, check for faulty Torque Conver Clutch solenoid.

Code 41
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Cam sensor signal was not received by PCM for the last 5 seconds while engine was running. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty cam sensor. Maybe also indicate a problem with the vehicle's timing chain.

Code 42
4 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
The Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty ignition module.

Code 43
4 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 20 seconds. Check for a faulty knock sensor, or Mem-Cal.

Code 44
4 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.25 volts for up to 4 1/2 minutes of closed loop operation, lean exhaust. Check the ECM wiring connections. Check for vacuum leaks at the hoses and intake manifold gasket.

Code 45
4 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.75 volts for 2 minutes in closed loop operation with a throttle angle between 0.6 and 1.9 volts. Rich exhaust. Check the evaporative charcoal canister and its components for the presence of fuel.

Code 46
4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Power Steering pressure switch Check for faulty connections, or a faulty switch.

Code 48
4 flashes, pause 8 flashes
Misfire Diagnosis. Check the ignition and fuel systems.

Code 51
5 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Prom or Mem-Cal Make sure the MEM-Cal or prom is properly installed in the ECM. Replace Mem-Cal or prom.

Code 52
5 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Cal-Pak Check the Cal-Pak to insure properation. replace the Cal-Pak.


Code 54
5 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
EGR #2 solenoid was out of range for 6 of 8 tests. 55 EGR #3 solenoid was out of range for 3 of 5 tests.

Code 55
5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
ECM Check for faulty connections. Replace the ECM.

Code 56
5 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-driver voltage was incorrect for 5 seconds on the circuit connected to QDM "B".

Code 57
5 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
Boost control solenoid did not open bypass valve causing engine torque to be too high.

Code 63
6 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly. Have vehicle serviced by a dealer.

Code 64
6 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Same as Code 63 EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly.

Code 65
6 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Same as Code 63.


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_________________
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daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:09 pm
Posts: 236
Location: Brinkworth, UK
If your Zuk has an ALDL or OBD2 connector then a scan tool can be used to read and reset codes and also to stream live data.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:10 am
Posts: 50
Location: California
Does this mean a person doesn't need a scanner then since you can retrieve codes in this manner?

I'm asking because I have a '95 1.0 liter G10 that I would like to scan. It's been idling a little rough lately with 211,000 on it and I'm suspecting the EGR circuit needs cleaning along with an O2 sensor but I would like to make sure first. The check engine light is not on however.

In my under dash, driver's side, fuse box, there is no "raised empty spare fuse slot". There is only a Diag Slot. Do I stick a fuse in it? Is that what the OP meant?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 3:54 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Just a short note of correction on the first post in this thread...
In order to retrieve codes in the Chevrolet Sprint 1985-1988 models, you flip a switch.
The switch is under the dash and in one of two places, depending on the year of the car.
From '89-'94, the diagnostic switch terminals can be used.
If you have an '89-'95, check under the hood and see if it is an OBD I or OBD II before attempting to locate the above mentioned 'diagnostic port/switch terminals'.

Thanks for posting this, xrw44.




95 geo_met wrote:
Does this mean a person doesn't need a scanner then since you can retrieve codes in this manner?

I'm asking because I have a '95 1.0 liter G10 that I would like to scan. It's been idling a little rough lately with 211,000 on it and I'm suspecting the EGR circuit needs cleaning along with an O2 sensor but I would like to make sure first. The check engine light is not on however.

In my under dash, driver's side, fuse box, there is no "raised empty spare fuse slot". There is only a Diag Slot. Do I stick a fuse in it? Is that what the OP meant?

Thanks!

First, look on the hood sticker to determine if your car is on board database I or II.
Then, look on page 6E1-17 (above) for your answer.
If your fuse box has the diagnosis switch terminals (#3), then your answer is a resounding 'yes', you don't need to obtain a scanner to retrieve codes.
If your check engine light is not on, expect to get an 'all clear/AOK/no codes' from your system.
Remember to take out the spare fuse after you've retrieved your codes.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:41 pm 
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Location: California
Ok, I have 2 stickers under the hood. One is an emission control sticker and the other is a vacuum diagram. Neither one mentions OBD1 or OBD2. I'm assuming it must be an OBD1 since it is a 1995 Metro. Another interesting thing is I have the diagnostic port in the fuse block and ALSO a 12 pin diagnostic connector under dash, drivers' side. I wonder which one I use? I have a GM scan tool that plugs into the 12 pin black connector but it does nothing. On the package it lists all the compatible vehicles and Geo Metro isn't one of them. I tried it anyway but it does nothing. So I'm leaning towards the diagnostic port on the fuse block now. I will give it a try tomorrow.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:10 am
Posts: 50
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Worked like a champ! I used the diagnostic port on the fuse block and the only code it kicked out was code 12, AOK!

I guess my rough idle must be because it needs a tune up. New plugs, cap, rotor, and timing set. EGR valve works properly. I push on the diaphragm and the engines wants to stall which indicates normal.

BTW, how long do O2 sensors last anyway? The current one I am using has been in for the last 111,000 miles at least! I've replaced it twice since I've owned the car because the "check engine" light came on twice, each time I figured it had to be the O2 sensor so I replaced it and the light went off and stayed off each time. But this latest O2 sensor seems to be going for a record. How often does everyone else replace them and do you wait for the check engine light to come on until you replace it?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:21 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
95 geo_met wrote:
Worked like a champ! I used the diagnostic port on the fuse block and the only code it kicked out was code 12, AOK!

I guess my rough idle must be because it needs a tune up. New plugs, cap, rotor, and timing set. EGR valve works properly. I push on the diaphragm and the engines wants to stall which indicates normal.

BTW, how long do O2 sensors last anyway? The current one I am using has been in for the last 111,000 miles at least! I've replaced it twice since I've owned the car because the "check engine" light came on twice, each time I figured it had to be the O2 sensor so I replaced it and the light went off and stayed off each time. But this latest O2 sensor seems to be going for a record. How often does everyone else replace them and do you wait for the check engine light to come on until you replace it?

Thanks!


If your engine is not throwing codes, then your O2 sensor isn't giving fits to your ECM.

Check out this section:

viewforum.php?f=30

and start a thread there, complete with pictures...prepare yourself; they'll want to know your compression values.

Hope this helps.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:25 am 
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Posts: 50
Location: California
Thanks for all your tips Phil N Ed!

I will do that!

-Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:32 pm 
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Location: Brinkworth, UK
95 geo_met wrote:
I wonder which one I use? I have a GM scan tool that plugs into the 12 pin black connector but it does nothing. On the package it lists all the compatible vehicles and Geo Metro isn't one of them. Thanks!


I think that you need the Asian Imports cartridge to use the GM/Vetronix tool on the Geo.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:58 pm 
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awsome out and about wanted to get MK1 chevy sprint ECM codes
......jv&s
.
.
.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 3:28 pm 
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This is an old thread. I bought a Tech 1 some time ago and I'm sure that the GM cartridge has support for the Metro, I will have to check - I do know that the Suzuki cartridge also works if you select the Swift. Rhinoview also supports the Metro and Swift and I have a TunerPro definition as well.


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