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 Post subject: DIY Painting Your Rims
PostPosted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:34 pm 
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Ok. First off you need to thoroughly check the condition of your wheels.
I am assuming that you're gonna paint them gunmetal, but let me know for sure what color they're gonna be.
Here's the list of what you'll need to get the job done right:

1. Bulldog Adhesive - 1 can should work for all 4 wheels(maybe 2 though) depending on how much you put on there.

2. DupliColor Graphite(if they are gonna be gunmetal)Wheel paint - this is sold at AutoZone and I think Wal-Mart as well. 1 can per wheel should be fine..but no guarantees).

3.ClearCoat - Most any automotive body clearcoat should work fine, just
don't get the kind made for engines(it will turn yellow over time).I used 1
can for each wheel.

4. Sandpaper - I suggest the 3M types that are made for wet and dry
automotive sanding.(400 grit to 1000 grit or so).

Now you're ready to go:
First off...you want to clean the wheels well with a
degreaser(SimpleGreen,Greased Lightning..whatever). After they are clean, you want to wet-sand the wheels, all you need to do is remove the clear-coat on the wheels so the paint will stick properly.. Start with somewhere between a 400 and 600 grit and work up to like 1000 grit or so. I started with 400, then went to 800. Do whatever you think is best with that though.
Remember, all you have to do is remove the clearcoat. You will most likely go thourhg a lot of sandpaper to do all 4 wheels, but be patient cause it can be time consuming...the better job you do at sanding, the better your wheels will look like in the end. When you finish wet-sanding them...clean them up with soap and water. After that, mask off your tires with duct tape of something else. Fortunately I didn't have tires on mine so that made it a whole lot easier. Start with the Bulldog Adhesive. Follow the directions on the back of the can. I did the 1st coat very lightly and let it dry for about 15 minutes or so. It helps to do this on a sunny, non-humid day to promote proper drying. I then did a good solid 2nd coat and let it dry for about 20-30 mins. I followed with a 3rd coat to make sure I got all the nooks and crannies, but I don't know if this was necessary or not. I let the adhesive dry for at least an hour before i started to paint. I follow the same process with the paint as I did with the Bulldog Adhesive. There's no perfect way to paint wheels, so you'll just have to experiment to find the best way for you. For the first coat, I just lightly sprayed the fron of the wheel and the inside. When I started the second coat, I started with the sides of the spokes and tried to get those as best as possible before moving on. Keep the can about 8-12 inches away from the wheel and use a sweeping motion. Don't put on too heavy of a coat because it WILL run and you'll be really pissed. When the cans start to run empty, the will begin to spray out in clumps, so be mindful of that.
Once again, be patient and take your time. Allow about 20 mins after the
first light coat, and 30 minutes between heavy coats.

Follow the same process with the clearcoat. The clearcoat I used was thinned than the paint and there were several times that it looked like it wanted to run. I just did a bunch of light coats on each wheel. Don't worry about the clear-coat being a gloss finish, they won't be nearly as shiny once the clear-coat fully dries. The more clear coat you put on each wheel, the better they will be at resisting small scrathes and other stuff like that.

Just take your time. I was very pleased with my results. I was out of work a few weeks ago, so I just took my time. I think I did 2 wheels each day, but I guess you could go as fast of as slow as you want. I felt good about doing these myself and was suprised the outcome was so good. I also refused to spend $300 on having them powdercoated, even if it does last longer. That's about all I can think of for now. Good Luck :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2004 8:05 pm 
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Just a tip. If youre doing steel rims have them sandblasted. Saves the hassel of all that sanding.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2004 12:21 am 
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Yea, thats a good idea, this is the "poor mans manual" :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 11:46 am 
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Bulldog Adhesive where can i find this stuff ?
and what does it do ? Is it like a primer ?

I will be doing them in black

thanks
The FiSh :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:28 pm 
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Blue-Fish wrote:
Bulldog Adhesive where can i find this stuff ?
and what does it do ? Is it like a primer ?

I will be doing them in black

thanks
The FiSh :mrgreen:


No one can help me out here ?

The FiSh :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:57 pm 
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I believe Bulldog is a construction adhesive. I'd try Home Depot.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:31 pm 
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did not find the bulldog stuff so I used Elmers
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Painted Rims
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this is a good FAQ
thanks for the info

The FiSh :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 11:37 pm 
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nice work fish, now all you need to do is clean up the tires and it will look perfect

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 4:47 am 
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OK, you guys have got me beat, wtf would you want to put adhesive spray onto the metalwork before priming?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 10:01 am 
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ellpee2 wrote:
OK, you guys have got me beat, wtf would you want to put adhesive spray onto the metalwork before priming?


I dont know but it worked

The FiSh :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 10:09 am 
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I would assume it would be to help the paint stick better, as well as add some sort of texture.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 10:26 am 
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probably to fill in any scratches :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:44 pm 
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Yea, it fills in small scratches an helps paint stick better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:15 am 
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Redshirts word of wisdom:

When painting rims i find it best to use these steps

1. Paint rim with engine enamel

see that wasn't so hard was it?

If you truley like your factory rims

1. Brush on paint remover ( sanding is for the dumb unless your trying to polish aluminum like i did)
2. Paint rim with rim paint
3. Clear with rim clear coat paint( rim clear coat has additives to not yellow and allows brake dust to be washed off easier)


For Rusted rims.

1. Buy new ones you cheap bastards, rust never goes away. I think they are 30 bucks canadian.


Ps. 1 can per rim? man i did 3,, 16 inch rims with one can, you will need 2 cans of color rim paint, and 2 of the clear.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:13 pm 
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What I did looks cool, takes time but very ltitle cash 8) , first I removed the wheels, took lots of paint/lacker thinner, and a metal brush and scrubed it down to the aliminium. Then after some polishing with a random orbit sander, I gave a spray on metal primer coat, then a metalic silver/shinny coat, and finnaly a clear coat. All bought from Lowes, spent less that $20 and now I have bright shinny wheels, oh-yha :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:46 pm 
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redshirt wrote:
Redshirts word of wisdom:

When painting rims i find it best to use these steps

1. Paint rim with engine enamel

see that wasn't so hard was it?

1. Buy new ones you cheap bastards, rust never goes away. I think they are 30 bucks canadian.


:ez_lol: :rollin:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:00 am 
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I prefer to work with lacquer rather than enamel paint for rims. Just redid my 15" racing harts in gloss black...they did not even require clear coating!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 1:30 pm 
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You resurrected a post that was 5 years old?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 12:21 am 
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lol clearcoat is for protection, not shine, keeps the paint from chipping/wearing longer.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 10:09 am 
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swifterthanu wrote:
You resurrected a post that was 5 years old?


Did I do something wrong or do you just feel like occupying server space?

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