TeamSwift

OK Since I had to reset the timing on my G10 today I figured WTH and make up a pictorial while doing it.

OK this applies to Electronic Advance G10's but the basics are the same with other motors.

Step 1 : Is to make sure you have all the right tools for the Job

You will need a Timing Light, Jumper Wire, 12 mm Wrench/Torx Bit, and your Keys

Step 2: Next you will need to clean your timing Marks.trust me, they will be dirty.

It shows 0*, 10*, and 20*. Also the White mark is the timing mark on the Pulley. This is your indicator for timing.


Step 3: Look for your underhood sticker that shows what Factory setting is.

You wil also find which two connections to short out with your jumper wire. IF you have a Vacume Advance Disty you simply unhook the Vacume line going to the cyl on the side of the Disty and plug it up with a bolt or cap.

Step 4: Located and short out the connector. Some modles have a 4 wire connector, some have a 6. Refer to your Sticker for the correct pins to short


Since my Jumper Wire was too large I ended up using a Paperclip. Again if you have a Vacume controlled Advance you skip these pictures.

Step 5: Next you Loosen the Distributor bolts. Depending upon year may also be Torx Bit

You use your 12 mm wrench/Torx Bit to loosen the bolts so you can turn the disty housing and adjust the timing..

Step 6: Hook up the timing light. The Spring Clamps go on the battery, the Inductive Pick up goes on the #1 Plug wire. Simple as it looks



Step 7: Use your keys and Start the car. Make sure the Parking Brake is on and you have the shifter in Neutral. If you have an auto, just leave it in parl

Step 8: Point the timing light at the timing tab and pull the trigger.

When the #1 Cyl fires it will cause the light to flash and you will see the timing mark on the pulley. Then you see where it is in relation to the timing marks. you then move the disty to move the mark either advnaced to retard depending upon where it is set. In this case the timing was too far advanced and had to be retarded back to 5* as seen in the next picture.


This is a correctly set 5* btdc factory timing. Tighten Your Disty bolts and check timing to make sure it did not move. Then Remove the Shorting Jumper Wire, cover it up, disconnect the timing light.

Hope this helps clear up how to set your timing.

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Metroless and looking for another already!!

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M3----"M" body "3" cylinders.
Now Turbo'd

"M3 like the BMW?"
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Best "how to" post i have ever seen. I applaud you good sir!

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I can go 80 going down hill when the wind blows just right...

G-G-G-Geo

i agreed what a great faq but clean your engine bay first

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sorry bout my bad english

Good job Kento!!!!! Very well done.

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"daddy's car vroom vroom"
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Currently driving a 1996 Geo Metro 1.0L
Mods coming...............

Karma!!

that gets a few karma points from me, a few extra tips...

you can set your timing a bit more advanced, eg. 8-13 degrees instead of stock for a bit more power, just make sure you're not getting any pre-detonation/pinging
if your timing shows up @ 24degrees advanced @ idle, there may be other problems with your distributor, eg. the mechanical or vacuum advance could be stuck/damaged.
...

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'92 Swift GT, '94 Swift GT, '88 Turbo Sprint, '98 Swift ... all sold years ago

Very nice!!

For those that have the mechanical advance, like my 91 geo (also called vacuum advance, vaccum diaphram on distr.) you can skip the part where you short the plug with a paper clip. Instead you disconetct the vacuum line at the TB, plug the TB port and the vaccuum hose that you just disconnected. Then set the timing as above. It interesting that with this type of ingnition, there is no EGR valve. I am running my timing at about 8-9, my geo likes it there.

Once again, that is a very well done write up. Thanks!

You say the distributor bolt is 12MM or a torx bolt, but you never say what size torx bit to use. I am trying to set my timing and the bolt is bigger than a T-30 and a T-40 is too big. Is there a T-35 or something?

I bought my Metro a few months ago for 500 bucks, it had a bad idle and I figured a cheap tune-up would fix it. I put in a new dist cap, rotor, wires, and bosch plats. The rough idle was still there. The previous owner had said he changed the timing belt so I thought maybe he put it back together a tooth off or something. The distributor is almost maxed out on the advance just to hold an idle that's able to keep the car running. The cam is ligned up properly with the crank, and the timing is set at about 20-24* The front motor mount is pretty shot, but I shouldn't think that woul effect the idle that durastically, and then smooth out when advanced so much. Anyone had any ideas?

I want to swap in the 1.3L DOHC when weather permits, but I already have too many projects with my ford cars. Cobra motor install in one, bullet-proof tranny in another, etc. Too many projects can be overwhelming but I'd really like to have a sleeper metro

Thanks,
Thomas

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Prowd ford owner with a new found love for the pimpass metro.

Could be the woodruff key for the crankshaft pulley has failed and the pulley is not lined up properly on the crank.

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Red '98 Metro 5sp 16v SOHC
Silver '06 Aerio SX 5sp 16v DOHC

Who is John Galt ?

Atlas Shrugged

no, Ive had the pulley off to remove the timing belt cover. The woodruff key is fine.

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Prowd ford owner with a new found love for the pimpass metro.

I have an 88 firefly with a 3 cyl 1.0L Carb and Vaccume Advance
it says to set at 6 Degrees BTDC what confuses me is Do I set the Pullys at TDC on the Cam Pully and the Crank Pully at 0 Degrees then use the Distrubitor to set to 6 Degrees or Do I set the Crank Pully to 6 Degrees and then Adjust with the Distrubitor

Any Information would Help

you can only set the ignition timing by turning the dist. changing the cam gear is adjusting cam timing . totally different.

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GO FAST TURN LEFT!! IF YOU HAVE TO TURN RIGHT, YOU NEED A ROUND OF WEDGE!!!

here is my sig. karma if you look

Now this should be a sticky! Pics are worth a ton!!! Thanks for a great post!

Editted to say: Ignition timing is different than cam timing. This post is about correctly setting the ignition timing whch involves adjusting the distributor and not the camshaft.

Although adjusting camshaft timing, in relation to the crankshaft, will affect your ignition timing as the distributor is run off of the camshaft!

IE: if you advance the camshaft and leave the crankshaft alone. The ignition will fire at a different timing in relation to the piston position if not adjusted.

I hope that makes sense???

Thanks, I was kinda hoping it would be too. Since it would be my First ever "STICKY" post on any website that I don't admin

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Metroless and looking for another already!!

Resurrecting thread for those, like me who are new to this engine.

This thread no longer has pics and my "sticker" which is supposed to show which pins on the diagnostic port to jump is gone...the car was repainted and I guess some smart-ass thought it best to remove it.

Can anyone tell me which pins, on my DOHC G13B engine (6 pin connector) need to be jumped to stop the timing from jumping all over the place?

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~the other Ralph~
Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!

Hey Kento87, could you upload the pictures for your tutorial again?

Thanks

I just set my timing on my G10 engine and shorted out the correct pins in the connector per the under hood sticker but the timing seemed to jump around a little while I shined the timing light on the timing marks. Seems to idle lower and a little rougher now too. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!

Never mind...........

I used too heavy of a gauge of wire to short out the connector pins and it didn't short them out at all I guess, hence the timing jumping around. I used a paper clip to short them out this morning and the timing mark held dead still. Paper clip works perfect! Timing is right on now.

Pictures please

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.: www.suzuki-klub.com :. SUZUKI KLUB SLOVENIJA

I'm sorry, I don't have any pics.

I have a 92 and a 93 Geo Metro Convertible. On the 93, setting it up for a timing check was pretty straight forward (just putting in the jumper). On my 92 however it says to disconnect and plug vacuum hoses on the distributor. Where the heck are those vacuum lines?

What happens if I don't plug those lines? Same flickering/jumping effect like on a 93 without the jumpered connector?

Thanks guys!

The '92 must have a vacuum advance instead of electronic. If so, there should be a vacuum line going right to the distributor. Disconnect it from the distributor and plug it. I find a wooden golf tee works superbly because of its taper but you can use just about anything as long as it seals.

Well I didn't see a vacuum line on or at the distributor. It's weird that it says it on the sticker under the hood. Would that be right on the distributor (the unit where the three spark plug wires come out of)?

Thanks