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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 10:45 pm
Posts: 663
Location: Millbrook, Alabama
Before we start, this isn't very difficult to do, just takes at least a day. Also, you WILL lose your high beams, however your new lows should be brighter anyways. This "could" be illegal in your area, check local laws first.

Alright.

You will need the following materials for this retrofit:

1 Pair of BMW 7 Series Projector headlights (late 80s early 90s). Look in a JunkYard
2 Packs of JB Quick Weld epoxy
1 piece of 4 inch PVC tubing, at least 10 inches(you'll have some leftover).
1 Pair of factory BMW 9006 Plugs and about 4 inches of the cooresponding wires. (grab the bulbs if you can for even cheaper)
Black Paint (optional, but recommended)
Medium sized piece of plexiglass
Some type of Dremel like thing(to trim the factory mounting location), and something to cut the PVC straight (hacksaw, chopsaw, Chuck Norris, etc...)

Alright so first you need to disassemble the factory headlight assembly:

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Now take the actual headlight buckets (the piece on the far right in the above pic) and get them cleaned up(get the grease, dirt, etc off)

Now the 2nd step you will need to do it this:

Take the PVC pipe and cut 2 sections to exactly 2.5inches long.

Next mix the JB weld into about a halfDollar sized puddle and evenly spread onto 1 end of the cut PVC pipes. Then place the PVC pipe(the end with the JB weld on it) on top of the Metro headlight bucket (you'll notice that it is already semi circular).

Once this is done you need to spread some more JB weld onto where the PVC and bucket meet.

When you are finished with that it should look like the following:

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Now, let it dry for about 30 minutes or so (if you used regular JB weld, let it sit for 3 hours). After it is dry and bonded, it is time to paint it if you wish. Mine turned out like this:

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Next we are going to mount the actual projector to the new housing we've made.

Make SURE you have the side of the projector with the cutoff shield facing the bottom of the bucket. If you mess this up the Projector is useless b/c JB weld is pretty tough.

Now mount the projector exacly the same as we did with the PVC and bucket, put the JB weld onto the other side of the PVC. Make sure the Projector is level with the bucket, you don't want it at an angle. When you are done with that it should look like the following:

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(these pics are split between my fist retrofit and my newer one. White is old, black is new)
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Let that sit for the same time as before (30minutes with JB Quick, or 3 hours with regular JB Weld).

Now cut 2 pieces of plexiglass to the exact size of the front of the headlight bucket, and drill holes where the factory holes are on the bucket(not the 2 adjustment holes, the 4 holes in the following pic, towards the 4 corners {bottom 2 are kinda covered}).
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Now you dont "have" to seal the front but it is highly recommended. We used window weld if i remember correctly (comes in a roll and is almost like clay and doesn't ever dry). Place that behind the plexiglass along the edges and screw it onto the buckets with the factory chrome trim rings on the outside (kinda tricky) We also eventually painted the trim pieces.

Sadly I dont' have any pics of that, the next pics that i have are of the projectors in the car. :(

Next we move on to actually modifying the car itself.

The 1st thing you will have to do is to trim the circular hole in the back of the radiator support bar. You will mainly have to trim the bottom of it to fit the PVC in. Here is a pic of what mine looked like after it was trimmed.
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You can see where the bottom was trimmed.

Next we move onto the wiring part.

The factory Geo bulb should have 3 wires going to it, one for the low beams, one for the high beams, and one ground. We will only use the low and the ground. Should be the red wire with the yellow stripe and the white wire, leave the solid red alone and by itself (that's the high).

Now splice this with the cut 9006 plug and wires, there should only be 2. The colors depend on what car you get them from, but the ground should be obvious. Go ahead and use quick connectors so you can just put the factory bulbs back in (with another set of buckets and trim rings), for inspection, etc. Here is a pic,

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After this is done you "should" be finished. Now would be a good time to paint the Metro trim bezel

Now put the newly completed projector assebly back into the factory location. It shoud look like this:

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Now you need to adjust the beams, the best place to do so is on level ground in front of a wall or fence, with nothing in front of it. You'll notice that there is a "step" in the light beam, meaning that the left side of the beam is lower than the right, this is normal, it keeps oncoming drivers from being blinded by the light and revved up like a deuce in the middle of the night...lol

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That is what it should look like properly adjusted. To adjust the beam just use the factory Metro adjustment screws on the bucket.

And that's it. All in all i spent around $25 for everything both times.

Enjoy!!!

Kyle

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92 Metro Turbo-G13b Swap - too much stuff to list
95 Metro 4/5 Sedan - Daily Driver Status
2014 BRZ Limited in WRB - The car payment


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:00 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa
can this be done to an '87 sprint with the same basic steps? or have your heard of ppl doing it to them?
kool idea either way

jody :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 11:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1135
Location: Alberta, Canada
neat mod. An 87 would not be easy, due to the one piece composite style headlight.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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