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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:39 pm
Posts: 92
Location: Kentucky
I posted this over at the geoforum site and thought that I'd share this for those of you who don't frequent that site. :D

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Finally! Here it is. And without further ado:

Some reference shots first.

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1. Disconnect and pull the battery.
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The following doesn't have to be done in any specific order, as long as they are all done.

2. Remove the TBI hat and air filter assembly. Yours may differ some.

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3. Disconnect the air temperature sensor.

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4. Disconnect Upper A/C VSV hose (if applicable).

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To get to the underside of the TBI hat, do the following:

5. Remove the PCV hose.

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6. Unbolt the TBI hat from the valve cover. Please keep all of your bolts and nuts bagged and labeled!!

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7. Disconnect Idle Speed Control Solenoid Valve Silencer.

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8. Remove TBI hat from Throttle body (no picture).

9. Disconnect Lower A/C VSV hose (if applicable).

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10. Disconnect TPS.

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We ran into some Vacuum hoses that were capped off, I'm guessing they go to the Charcoal Canister...

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Some of the following may require you to go underneath the car. Please have the car secured by jack stands before getting under it. I will not be held responsible if you don't do this, and the car falls you, crushes your chest, and you die a slow, painful death due to internal bleeding.

11. Disconnect the BVSV vacuum hose.

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There are several vacuum hoses that go to the Charcoal Canister, and I know theky've changed some throughout the generations as mine are different from Unicron7's, so please keep track of your hoses and where they went.

12. Disconnect vacuum hose on firewall going to Charcoal Canister.

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13. I'm not sure of the name of this sensor, it's behind the EGR valve however and it's easier to get this one off if you get under the car and tackle it.

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14. Disconnect A/C Thermal Sensor.

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15. Disconnect Distributor Grounding Wire. This is a very good time to upgrade this puny thing to something bigger and better.

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16. Disconnect Coolant Temperature Sensor.

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17. Disconnect the vacuum line from the MAP sensor going into the Throttle Body. I'll go ahead and mention this here: This is the perfect time for you to replace ALL of your old as dirt, dried out and cracked vacuum lines. This is one of the cheapest preventative maintanances that you can do. I also recommend maybe replacing the air filter that's on this vacuum line as well.

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18. Disconnect Alternator Power Wire.

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19. Disconnect Alternator Grounding Wire (Good time to upgrade the wires).

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20. Disconnect wires going to Starter (Another chance to upgrade your grounds).

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21. Disconnect Fuel Injector Sensor.

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22. Disconnect MAP sensor.

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23. Disconnect Distributor wire.

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24. Disconnect Temperature Gauge Sensor.

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25. Disconnect Radiator Fan Switch Sensor.

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26. Disconnect EGR Sensor.

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27. Disconnect ECU Grounding Wires (Another underneath-the-car task).

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28. Disconnect the oil pressure sensor.
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29. Now everything (or nearly everything depending on your year car and it's options) should be unplugged. CAREFULLY pull the wiring harness out to the driver's side of the car. You'll need to run the Oil Pressure sensor wire back behind and underneath the intake manifold with the rest of the harness. Make sure when you are pulling it out you are not snagging any of the connectors on anything. If you get resistance while pulling this out, STOP. Look and find out where the hangup is at, fix it, then resume pulling it out. Once you have it out, move it aside where it will not be in the way nor get damaged.

Here's Unicron7 taking credit for all of my hard work.

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30. Disconnect the fuel lines going to the Throttle body (ours were so stuck on there that they had to be cut off and replaced as you'll notice in the pcitures). Get a towel ready before doing this because you're getting ready to have a mess on your hands...

NO SMOKING ALLOWED!

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31. Disconnect Throttle Cable from Throttle Body.

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32. Unplug the wire going to the Coil.

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33. Disconnect the Exhaust Manifold (DISCLAIMER: soak all of the bolts down with PB Blaster for a few days before hand, like twice a day, if you want this part to be pain free). When we first started on this a few days before, the bolts on the manifold looked like they were fused to the darn thing. Several liberal sprays of PB Blaster later and they came right out, smooth as butter. B-)

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34. Drain your coolant. There is a drain plug underneath the radiator at the bottom of it (no picture).

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Check this nasty crap out. This is what came out of the Radiator (The radiator was replaced entirely as it was toast). The overflow bottle was also full of nasty crap that had to be cleaned out.

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YUMMY!

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35. Disconnect Upper Radiator hose from the Thermostat Housing.

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36. Disconnect Lower Radiator Hose coming from the back of the block. Paper towels are a wonderful thing to have right about now...

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37. Disconnect the hose on the back of the coolant pipe that goes to the heater core inside the cabin.

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38. Disconnect the second heater core hose (doesn't really matter from which end you disconnect it).

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39. Disconnect vacuum hose going to Brake Master Cylinder.

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40. Disconnect the entire Throttle Cable (probably should do this right after step 31).

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41. Disconnect the A/C coolant lines going to the A/C condensor (if installed). WARNING: This is highly illegal and should only be done by a qualified A/C tech. Or, if you plan on keeping your A/C (Unicron7 doesn't). Then unbolt the A/C from the bracket and set it aside with the lines still on it and out of the way.

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42. Disconnect the A/C wire that's on the Radiator Core Support.

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DISCLAIMER: Our biggest mistake was pulling this motor WITHOUT THE TRANSMISSION ATTACHED TO IT. If you're pulling your motor, for whatever reason, I highly recommend that you pull it with the Transmission attached to the block. Please refer to the other How To Thread on removing transmissions. When we put the new motor in this last weekend, it was a PITA to do because there's very little wiggle room to work with while the tranny is still in the car.

If you're stubborn like us and want a chalenge and decide to leave the transmission in the car, then please keep reading.

43. Remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the Bellhousing. Don't worry, there's only two bolts.

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44. To unbolt the Flex Plate (Auto) or Flywheel (Manual), you will need to stick a flat head screw driver into one of the teeth where the notch on the bottom of the Bellhousing is. Then you need to put a wrench on the bolt you want to take off, push the Flexplate/Flywheel towards the firewall while at the same time, loosening the bolt. Rinse and repeat for all of the bolts.

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45. Once you're done there, remove the transmission bolts.

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46. Now for the last side. The lower rear (by the firewall) bolt, there's actually 6 that need to be removed. Sadly, I didn't get clear pictures of all of them, but you can see 3 of them clearly here. Please keep track of where each of these go because they're different sizes.

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47. The green arrows indicate where the other 3 bolts are that need to be removed. the arrow on the left is pointing to where a nut will be at, on the opposite side the rear motor mount bracket there is another nut as well. The arrow on the right indicates the bolt going through the actual motor mount.

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48. Before taking out this bolt, go ahead and get a chain through the loops on the motor as seen in this picture. Place some tension on the motor, just a tad. Now take out the bolt on the rear motor mount and the front one (no picture of this, but it's clearly visible in the pic below. Remove the rear motor mount bracket by sliding/wiggling it towards the passenger side. It will be a tight job, but have patience.

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49. The transmission will have a long bolt sticking out of it on the bottom where you slid off the rear motor mount bracket. You'll need to pry the motor apart from this. This is the hardest part of the ordeal and this is why I recommend pulling the transmission WITH the motor. You think prying them apart is hard? Shit. Try sliding the motor back on it when you're ready to put it back in. The only thing that got the motor mated back up with the transmission on Unicron7's car was my sheer fury with trying to get the motor to slide back over this bolt.

50. Now CAREFULLY start lifting the motor, making sure that you don't bang it against anything. Make sure when you start jacking up the motor that your flywheel/flexplate bolts don't snag the bellhousing. When you're done, it should look like this.

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51. Please keep the tranny jacked up to prevent damage to it while hanging down.

YOU'RE DONE!

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AKA/FKA: 95_g105spd


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:35 pm
Posts: 2419
Location: Regina, SK
I'd reccomend replacing the engine mounts while you have the engine out. The rubber in them breaks down overtime, I had to do this on my 98. The difference was amazing, and this 93 Metro I'm rolling around in for the winter, is in desperate need of new mounts... :lol:

It seems to be something many people skip, along with the strut tower mounts... The Metro has newish struts, and the mounts are factory original... :roll:

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:57 pm
Posts: 67
Location: colorado
This is a really good post, does anyone have one where you pull both the engine and the manual transmission at the same time? I am in need of this and can't seem to find this on the forum. I've been searching everywhere. Pictures would be great since I don't have a manual to work with.

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Jon

'91 Geo Metro 3cyl 5 speed 12" wheels 50 + MPG.
'37 Chevy Coupe
'00 VW Passat 4Motion Wagon
'95 GMC Pickup short bed 4x4
'82 28 foot rv, but diesel is too expensive to drive now.


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PostPosted: Fri May 27, 2011 1:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2011 1:25 pm
Posts: 88
Location: new york
jonprivate wrote:
This is a really good post, does anyone have one where you pull both the engine and the manual transmission at the same time? I am in need of this and can't seem to find this on the forum. I've been searching everywhere. Pictures would be great since I don't have a manual to work with.


I used this thread and others ( mullet style) to remove the 1.3L 8 valve with 3 spd auto pulling it underneath. i just took off the head first then just removed 4 mount bolts at the bottom and used a dolly and a rope tied in a 2x4 wood placed accross the fender frame and a spare 4 strong arms to finally lift off the car an extra .5 inch to finally pulled the engine/tranny off the front bumber frame.


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