TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Fri Jul 21, 2017 1:55 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2004 6:02 am 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
I had an opportunity today to grab some of the Technical Service Bulletins for the Suzuki Swift GTi/GT from an AllData account. This information is preliminary, I'll try to grab all of it if I can sneak a laptop over there...:wink:

These are Technical Service Bulletins that address all years of Suzuki Swift GTi/GT models

TSB # TS 0201074
Correct coolant usage:
It is recommended to us an Ethylene Glycol Phosphate coolant, mixed 50/50 with distilled water. The mixture should never exceed 70/30 coolant and water. Never mix different types of coolant.

TSB # 4-2507196
Crankshaft timing belt pulley belt revised torque revision
New bolt torque specification is 94.0 ft lbs

TSB # TS3-1509283
Transmission oil drain plug and fill plug torque revision
Drain plug torque: 13.5 - 16.5 ft lbs
Fill plug torque: 13.5 - 16.5 ft lbs

images of actual TSB:
Image
Image


TSB # TS4-1606082
TPS specification on idle correction
impedance should read 0 - 2 K Ω (ohms)

TSB # TS3-0601232
Manual transmission oil leak
Cause: loose or missing shifter interlock bolt
Correction: new part issued (P/N 25321-60B01), torque to 20 ft lbs, use thread locking compound

TSB # TS3-0403261
Transmission oil leak at speedometer head (many Swift models are effected, but only the GTi/GT M/T part numbers are present here)
New parts:
1) Speedometer gear case : 29431-60B00
2) Speedometer driven gear (M/T, GTi): 26131-64B00
3) Oil seal (M/T) : 26151-60B00
4) Pin : 09205-03036
5) O-ring : 09280-16012
6) Speedo cable : 34910-61b20

Oil drainage has been added to the new style gear case and the diameter of the slotted end of the driven gear has been decreased by 0.5 mm
Installation Precautions
• Be certain oil seal is fully seated and square to bore
• Be certain the slotted end of the driven gear has no sharp edges that might damage the seal when installing
• Lubricate gear and o-ring parts

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Last edited by Lihtan on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:08 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 27, 2002 11:47 pm
Posts: 1974
Location: San Juan, Argentina
This confirms my suspects regarding TPS resistance at Idle. I could never read less than the 500 ohms directed in the service manual, which tells you to adjust the TPS to less than 500 ohms.

My TPS ranges 540 - 5K ohms. And it was set to about 630 ohms @ idle.

Good info Lihtan.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:55 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: So. Calif
The two issues I've always wondered about are
- for the Metro with rear drum brakes, what is the rear spindle nut torque? My factory manual says I think 129 ft lbs which seems WAY too much.

- Are the head bolts torque to yield and are they supposed to be replaced each time the head is disassembled? (my factory manual doesn't say anything about it).

I've got a 1992 Geo Metro factory manual.

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 8:32 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 863
Location: Vancouver BC
The rear spindle nut torque is correct at 129 Ft. lb. if it is a staked type nut, or 74 ft. lb if it is a castellated nut and uses a cotter pin.

If the head bolt threads are not stretched, and clean, I would reuse them.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 11:28 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 11:55 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: So. Calif
Thanks. I bring it up because my factory manual gives 129 ft lbs for the front anxle nut too which is significantly larger in diameter, plus the washer under the nut on my rear spindle is smushed and dished all to hell from the torque. I checked out another publisher's data book on the Metro and it said 60 ft lbs., plus I 'think' I saw some TSB about it but I don't have a subscription to read it.

dave

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 11:40 pm 
Offline
a.k.a Bum head
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
The rear spindle nut shouldn't be torqued more than 70 ft/lbs if it's staked (bend in the collar of the nut). Anything more than that seems likely to strip the threads. I've drove my car many many many kms with the nut torqued to 70 ft/lbs and had no problems.

The front spindle nut is definitely 129 ft/lbs.


Chris

_________________
Good stuff for sale!

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=42901&start=0


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 3:25 am 
Offline
Senior Member
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2004 11:30 pm
Posts: 1706
Location: Rivendell
suzukitom wrote:
If the head bolt threads are not stretched, and clean, I would reuse them.


Tom, I hate to disagree with anyone on this board, but I have to disagree with you on this one. Suzuki service manual states replace the head bolts every time you take the head off.
There is a real and defintive reason for this that I stumbled upon in an race performance reconditioning outfit. I believe that this has also been discussed at length in previous posts regarding head bolts vs. head studs.

The reason is that the head bolts are an elastic material. (yes, metal is elastic, definition of the property of elasticity: the ability of a material to revert to its original state after being distorted)
After torquing the headbolt, it distorts, the second time you torque the headbolt, it becomes less elastic (ie, less likely to maintain its original state). therefore it is less likely to stay torqued at the level the head requires.
The curve that indicates the point at which the metal loses its elastic property is not linear. It stays firm until a critical point is reached and it then loses its elasticity rapidly and permanently.
So, what does this mean to you and I, and everyother member on the forum?
one torque down of a head bolt is guaranteed. If you get another, you are lucky. If you get three, you are very lucky. But, you never know when or if that bolt will lose its elastic properties.

roll on head studs or new sets of bolts every time..
Luck, is not an option.

_________________
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2005 11:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:36 am
Posts: 863
Location: Vancouver BC
Re:
Quote:
CJDave wrote: The rear spindle nut shouldn't be torqued more than 70 ft/lbs if it's staked (bend in the collar of the nut). Anything more than that seems likely to strip the threads.


I scanned two pages from the factory manuals for the 1990 swift GT (disc rear) and for a 1992 metro (drum rear). Both state (mid) torque values of 129 Ft Lb. for the rear spindle nut. The Suzuki manual does suggest replacing the nut each time.

http://www.teamswift.net/album_page.php?pic_id=3050

http://www.teamswift.net/album_page.php?pic_id=3049

Re:
Quote:
ellpee2 wrote: Suzuki service manual states replace the head bolts every time you take the head off.


I could not find a reference to replacing the bolts. The shop manual just said to apply engine oil to cylinder head bolts, tighten them gradually with a torque wrench to specified torque, then to back off to zero, and retighten them again to spec again.

Some head bolts are TTY design (tighten to yield). I did not think the Swift 1.0 or 1.3 were of this design. It's probably cheap insurance to replace them anyways I guess. :)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2005 11:43 pm 
Offline
a.k.a Bum head
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
suzukitom wrote:
I scanned two pages from the factory manuals for the 1990 swift GT (disc rear) and for a 1992 metro (drum rear). Both state (mid) torque values of 129 Ft Lb. for the rear spindle nut. The Suzuki manual does suggest replacing the nut each time.


Wow. Well... I've been torquing mine to ~70 each time, and I'm curious if the nut would strip first or if the spindle would just shear off at ~130. But even so, I wonder if that might just solve my rear bearing problems...


Chris

_________________
Good stuff for sale!

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=42901&start=0


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: More TSBs
PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 11:16 pm 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
Technical Bulletin #294

DATE: 1995

TRANSMISSION: General

SUBJECT: Drive Axle and Wheel Lug Nut Torque

APPLICATION: Service information

AXLE AND LUG NUT SERVICE INFORMATION

It is critical to tighten the axle and lug nuts to factory specifications.

Important: The following chart contains both DRIVE AXLE NUT and WHEEL LUG NUT tightening values. Make certain the correct tightening torque is used by referring to the chart headings

WARNING: If the factory tightening specifications are not followed, bearing life will be shortened or mechanical loads will not be spread evenly.

Application--------------AXLE NUT CV TYPE-----------------------LUG NUTS
---------------------------Ft. Lbs. (Nm)---------------------------Ft. Lbs. (Nm)

Geo
89-94 Metro--------------130 (175) Stake nut-----------------------60 (80)
85-87 Sprint-------------110-195 (150-170) Stake nut-------------30 (40)

Suzuki
Swift----------------------110-150 (150-200)------------------------45 (60)

<hr>

Division: Automotive
Category: Technical

Section Title: General Info
TSB No. TS 02 01074

SUBJECT: CORRECT COOLANT USAGE

MODELS: ALL MODELS

YEAR: 1986-2004

There are three (3) basic types of coolant available in the market today. Ethylene Glycol Silicate Based, Ethylene Glycol Phosphate Based and Organic Acid Based. The color of the coolant has nothing to do with the actual base coolant and is only the dye added by the coolant manufacturer.

The only way to properly identify the type of base coolant is to READ THE LABEL.

For our new Verona and Forenza vehicles the proper coolant to use is the Ethylene Glycol Silicate Based coolant. The proper mis is 50/50 coolant to water* and in no case higher than 70/30. Concentrations greater then 70/30 coolant to water will cause overheating conditions.

For all other Suzuki automotive products the proper coolant is the Ethylene Glycol Phosphate Based coolant. Again at a 50/50 coolant to water* mix not to exceed 70/30.

*It is strongly recommended that either distilled water is used to mix with concentrated coolant or a "pre-mixed" coolant is used. This is especially important in areas where tap water has a lot of dissolved minerals (Hard Water). The presence of an abudance of dissolved minerals may cause the Silicates or Phosphates to drop out of suspension and cause cooling system malfunction. (ie Rapid seal wear, block corrosion, passage way and/or radiator blockage.)

WARNING: DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BASE COOLANTS. MIXING DIFFERENT BASE COOLANTS MAY RESULT IN ACCELERATED SEAL WEAR AND/OR THE POSSIBILITY OF SEVERE OVERHEATING AND EXTENSIVE ENGINE/AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.

<hr>

TSB No. 4-25 07196
Section Title: Engine

Division: Automotive
Category: Technical

SUBJECT: MODIFICATION OF TIGHTENING TORQUE FOR CRANKSHAFT TIMING BELT PULLEY BOLT

MODELS: ALL

YEAR: ALL 1989-1996 PRODUCTION VEHICLES

CONDITION: Change in crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt torque.

CAUSE: n/a

CORRECTION: Please make the necessary corrections in your service manual as listed in this bulletin.

STARTING VIN NUMBERS

VEHICLES REQUIRING VEHICLES WITH
LATE TORQUE SPEC'S UPDATED
AFTER SERVICING TORQUE SPEC'S

1989-1996 SWIFTS 1996 SWIFTS

ALL 2S2AB21H_T6602049~


EARLY: 79.5 lb-ft (110 Nm, 11.0 kg-m)

LATE: 94.0 lb-ft (130 Nm, 13.0 kg-m)


This bulletin is to inform you of the modification of the tightenning torque for the cranksahft timing belt pulley bolt wichi has been carried out since February 1996 production. When reinstalling the crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt for 1989-1996 Swifts, use the LATE tightening torque.

images of actual TSB here:
Image
Image

<hr>

TSB No. TS 4-03 03319

Section Title: Engine

SUBJECT: GTI SERVICE MANUAL CORRECTION/REGRINDING THE CRANKSHAFT
MODEL: GTI
YEAR: 1989

Regrinding of the crankshaft and installation of under size bearings (0.025 mm), as described on pages 6A-43, 6A-44, 6A-53, 6A-55, 6A-56 of the Swift GTi Service Manual, is no longer recommended.

The crankshaft bearing surfaces are provided from the factory with nitriding treatment to increase hardness. If reground, the treated surface will be removed and the hardness reduced. If the crankshaft bearing surface is damaged, the crankshaft must be replaced. The undersized bearing is not available as a spare part.

<hr>

TSB No. TS 4-01 02159
Section Title: Engine

Division: Automotive
Category: Technical

SUBJECT: USE OF GASOLINE/ALCOHOL-BLENDED FUELS ETHANOL-METHANOL-MTBE

MODEL: All
YEAR: All

Suzuki has revised its recommendation concerning galonine/alcohol blended fuels. Please review the following information which summarizes the changes made. Future owner's manuals will reflect the revised recommendations.

• Suzuki continues to recommend that customers use straight alcohol-free, unleaded gasoline whenever possible.

• In some areas, customers may only have the option of buying unleaded gasoline blended with either alcohol or MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether). The gasoline/MTBE blend, which is alcohol free, is recommended over unleaded gasoline containing alcohol.

• If straight alcohol-free unleaded gasoline is not available, or customers prefer to use gasoline/alcohol blend, then up to 10% ethanol is acceptable.

• The use of gasoline/methanol blended fuels are allowable up to 5% concentration and only if the appropriate cosolvents an corrosion inhibitors are present in the fuel.

More Desirable

|| Straight unleaded gasoline
|| Unleaded gasoline/MTBE blend
|| Unleaded gasoline/ethanol blend 10% or less
\/ Unleaded gasoline/methanol blend 5% or less with additives

Less Desirable

Gasoline/alcohol blends containing ethanol are recommended over gasoline/alcohol blends containing methanol. Leaded premium or leaded regular gasoline should never be used.

<hr>

Division: Automotive

Category: Technical
TSB No. TS3-04 12110

Section Title: Drivetrain
SUBJECT: TRANSMISSION OIL LEAK AT SPEEDOMETER HEAD
MODEL: SWIFT (ALL)
YEAR: MAY 1989 PRODUCTION AND EARLIER

1: Speedometer driven gear case------29431-60B00
2: Speedometer driven gear------------26131-60B00----M/T
---------------------------------------------26131-64B00----M/T (GT,GTi)
---------------------------------------------26131-62B00----A/T
---------------------------------------------26131-62B40----A/T (GTi)
3: Oil seal---------------------------------26151-60B00----M/T
---------------------------------------------09280-08001----A/T
4: Pin--------------------------------------09205-03036
5: "O" ring---------------------------------09280-16012
6: Speedo cable---------------------------34910-61B20

In cases where the transmission oil leaks from the speedometer head, replace the following components:
An oil drain hole has been added to the new style gear case and the diameter of the slotted end of the driven gear has been decreased by 0.5 mm. INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS:
• Be certain the oil seal is fully seated and square to the bore.
• Be certain the slotted end of the driven gear has no sharp edges that might damage the seal when installed
• Lubricate driven gear and "O" ring parts.

<hr>

Recall 93V189000: Hood Striker Weld Cracks

Mislocated attaching spot welds of the hood striker assembly cause cracks to start on the hood inner panel. If cracks occur, the hood striker assembly may not properly engage the hood latch when the hood is closed. An improper engaged hood latch may result in a hood fly-up while the vehicle is in motion. This could obstruct the driver's view and could cause a vehicle crash.

Suzuki will (a) install two bolts and nuts to secure the striker assembly to the hood inner panel, and (b) ensure that the hood latch assembly fasteners are properly tightened.

System: Structure; hood assembly

Vehicle description: Passenger cars.

Note: If your vehicle is presented to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and the rememdy is not provided within a reasonable time and free of charge or the remedy does not correct the defect or non compliance, please contact Suzuki Service Center at 1-714-996-7040. Also, please contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's auto safety hotline at 1-800-424-9393.

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Last edited by Lihtan on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:44 pm 
Offline
Sad but True...
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 4:13 pm
Posts: 2205
Location: Omaha Ne. U.S.A.
I found these in Suzuki's enemy"Consumer Reports"
1990-94 Suzuki Swift: Reliability

Trouble Spots

Consumer Guide's® Auto Editors have scoured repair bulletins and questioned mechanics to search for commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however, we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems.

Battery: The dome light may stay on due to a faulty door-jamb switch. (1990-91)Engine misfire: Rough idle may be caused by a problem with the engine-control computer. (1993)

Engine misfire: A problem with the throttle-body base gasket results in rough idle and throttle stumble. (1990-92)

Hood/trunk: Because the spot welds for the striker were misaligned, the hood may not latch properly. (1990-93)





Consumer Guide® Estimated Repair Costs

_________________
"One Of Three ORIGINAL (CERTIFIED) LNLC Co-Founders"
1991 Suzuki Swift GT.
1994 Suzuki Swift GT.
If my Swift was as fast as Tg or m's car I'd be famous...
My car is a trailer queen 'cause it's too slow to merge safely into traffic


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:42 pm 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
From my knowledge, the door switch issue primarily effected MK3s. The hood latch issue only effected 1989 vehicles. Later models had the hood latch reinforced with two extra bolts.

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 7:48 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 1:49 pm
Posts: 545
Location: Ontario
this information is awesome keep this great stuff coming guys i'm loving it :D


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:08 pm 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
This is what your hood latch should look like (other than the rust). Those two rusty bolts mean the hood latch isn't going anywhere.

Image

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:20 pm 
Offline
Sad but True...
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 10, 2003 4:13 pm
Posts: 2205
Location: Omaha Ne. U.S.A.
No.The hood latch was Recalled on MY swift Gt,,a 1991.It never was done,so I took care of it.So for some reason the it wasnt just the 1989.

_________________
"One Of Three ORIGINAL (CERTIFIED) LNLC Co-Founders"
1991 Suzuki Swift GT.
1994 Suzuki Swift GT.
If my Swift was as fast as Tg or m's car I'd be famous...
My car is a trailer queen 'cause it's too slow to merge safely into traffic


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:02 pm 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
Hmm, that's weird. That picture above is from my 1990, although I don't know if it came from the factory like that or was repaired later (there is no campaign sticker nearby so I suspect it was factory). A buddy of mine had an 1989, which I distinctly recall as not having those two extra bolts reinforcing the latch.

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:04 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2004 12:35 pm
Posts: 3249
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Does this also apply to Sprints/Fireflys? If so, not a single one that has passed through my grubby paws has had the two bolts, and most of them have indeed had problems latching shut.

_________________
GeoZukiGTi wrote:
This makes me wanna hurt someone, really bad. Where's Hitempguy, he's expendable
CJDavE wrote:
You have a girlfriend? :shock:

HiTemp Inc. ....... taking over the world one Sprint Turbo and Swift GTi at a time.

Chassis Flex Motorsports


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:38 pm 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
The problem isn't so much of the hood not latching shut, as it is that the latch might break loose from it's spot welds, resulting in the hood flying up against the windshield. Come to think of iit, I've have heard of hood fly-ups happening once or twice to T3s. Time to buy some hood pins huh? :wink:

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:32 pm 
Offline
a.k.a Bum head
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
Lihtan wrote:
The problem isn't so much of the hood not latching shut, as it is that the latch might break loose from it's spot welds


Yup. Had a hood latch break like that. Only one hood did that to me, though. The original '89 hood on my old 4-door had no problems, neither did the second or third (don't ask), but the latch on the hood of my '91 died within 2 months of me driving it regularily.

You can put the bolts in yourself, since the holes are already there.


Chris

_________________
Good stuff for sale!

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=42901&start=0


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: ....
PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 8:23 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 8:00 pm
Posts: 280
Location: Brampton, Ontario
i had the bolts installed at the dealership about a month ago..they kinda looked at me when i said i was here for recalls...but the still did the repair :D

_________________
1991 Turbo Firefly RIP


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 8:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 8:22 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Queensland
i was just wondering if someone could help me...?? i need a swift gti (93 model) wiring diagram. i have only just bought my swift a couple of wks ago and dont know much about it :oops:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:42 am 
Offline
Moderator & FAQ King
Moderator & FAQ King
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 6:22 pm
Posts: 6460
Location: Vancouver, BC
Hood Stiker Campaign L4:
TSB No. TS 1-12 12173
Image
Image
Image

<hr>

Suzuki 1989 - 1990 Paint Codes:
TSB No. TS 1-02 07319(R)
Image

<hr>

Paint Codes 1989 Through 1992:
TSB No. TS 1-02 08141 (R)
Image
Image

<hr>

Manual Transmission - Second Gear Synchronizer Modification:
TSB No. TS3-02 03071(R)
Image
Image
Image <--- (usage of GM Synchromesh mentioned here)
Image

link to this post:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=212622#212622

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:50 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 111
Location: Hamilton, ON
My 94 GT was recalled for the hood latch sometime in '95. Have the notice here somewhere. Still haven't gotten around to it


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 23 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group