TeamSwift

I was wondering if I used a 95 1.3l rotating assembly with a 99 1.3l 16v metro head if there would be interference with the 8v pistons?Thanks

I have been wondering that myself. I have just looked at both types of pistons, and it sure looks like they would contact. There is a chance that they would work ok when properly timed, in that case you would just have an interference engine should the timing belt break, which needn't be a big deal with a new belt. Curious to see if anyone else has done this yet?

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!

I am pulling the 99 head tonight and the 95 head is off so I will find out tonight. I will keep y'all posted unless someone has the answer before I start pulling the head.

what will you do for ignition?

i posed a question about the cam and cam angle sensor on the sohc 16v for an idea i was considering and the pics that suprf1y sent me shows that the rear end of the 16v cam shaft has tits on it for the cam angle sensor instead of the slots for distributor drive.

the 95 system is set up with a distributor in conjunction with the ecu and a coil while the 99 uses a distributorless design and a coil pack. what tricks will you use to ensure control system compatibility?

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 2000 Chevy Metro 1.3L MPFI automatic. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

My YouTube Channel

My Photo Gallery

SAAB Sonett II

Simple, everything for the 99 is mounted to the head and all I have to do about the crank sensor is swap oil pump and the crankshaft timing pully. I have already put the head w/o head gasket on the 95 1.3l and the previous post was right if you set the timing correctly it should work but does turn the motor in to a interference motor. I am going to remove the block and swap engines tomorrow and finally have a answer to my question.

Success!!!, the swap is in and running fine the only thing you have to change is the oil pan,pump relucter wheel/crank pulley, timing belt tensioner and move the tensioner lock bolt. Be Aware because it does change the engine to an interference engine so be careful setting the timing belt up and remember timing belt changes!

i take it that you also used the engine harness, electronic ignition, and ecu for the newer engine.

the sohc 16v pistons have flycut reliefs in their crowns for the valve pattern that is different from the 8v pistons. i hope that they don't clash.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 2000 Chevy Metro 1.3L MPFI automatic. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

My YouTube Channel

My Photo Gallery

SAAB Sonett II

I have a 99 Metro that had a bad bottom end so the harness and ecm didn't have to change cause a swapped short blocks only. As for the piston the 16v has 4 fly cuts and the 8v has 2 fly cuts but only if the belt breaks there would be a chance of the valves hitting the pistons

that's nice to know. my wife's car has the sohc 16v. it gives me a wider range of bottom ends if i ever need one.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 2000 Chevy Metro 1.3L MPFI automatic. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

My YouTube Channel

My Photo Gallery

SAAB Sonett II

Almost every 8v used engine I have had in the last couple years has burned oil. Tough heads, same old rings that burn oil eventually. The 16v's don't seem to have near the issues, only valve stem seals that cause smoke on startup, but once fixed I have yet to have one come back using any amount of oil. This is a great thread, because it may open up an opportunity to use the newer good 16v shortblocks in the 95-97 8v cars.
I'd say i did 12 1.3 8v rerings last year, with at least half being due to oil consumption, half due to piston skirts breaking.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!

geo lee, be very very interested in hearing about your "seat of the pants dyno" impression of the new head on the old motor. Do you expect to lose some bottom end torque in return for some top end HP? Won't it be glorious if you get fat torque from bottom to top with that good looking, long runner intake manifold, very sexy.

Please give us your street driving impressions comparing back to back with the 8v head so we can all be jealous and day dream about greatness.

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95 Metro hatch "Tequila lime" now demonically possessed by Lil Evil.
93 Metro wagon teenage schoolbus
90 Metro hatch "fugly duckling" next up for freeway suicide duty
89 'GT3' chassis in the house
Looking for another 95 to drag home...
92 Tracker 2 dr rwd stock
93 Sidekick 4 dr 1.9 vw TD, WVO conversion, 6" lift over 33's

Something to note...

The SOHC 16V engine uses different rings than all of the other motors in these cars. Hastings is the only company I found with a listing for it, but I can't find anyone to sell em, it seems to be dealer only.

Hmm... there is also the fact that the 8V engines are supposed to use weaker cranks, do use weaker rods, use those crappy pressed pins... Beyond that the bottom should bolt to the top.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!