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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:28 pm 
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Location: Puerto Rico
This mod is compatible with a PNP HID Kit?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:46 pm 
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Location: Yuma, Arizona
Don't know but I know with my PIAA 9007's, I am close to the HID look.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Location: burlington,ontario
Split wrote:
This mod is compatible with a PNP HID Kit?


its recomended that you run relays with a PNP hid kit, since they draw a fair bit of power at start up


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:06 am 
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Location: Yuma, Arizona
But can you use it with the setup you gave?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:07 pm 
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Location: Canada
Dunno if people post in this thread, but here's what I did.

I ran the big hot from my + battery through the relay and out to my headlights.

I ran a thin wire from the + battery to one side of the switch part of the relay, and I ran a thin wire from the other side of the switch part of the relay to the front of the car.

I want to run the wire for my beams into the existing switch, but hot damn, it isn't working for me! If I had separate switches, it works, but I want to run into the existing switch.

So, with that, I want to:

Run my low volt low beams to my switch, and my high beams to my switch, but which wires are those? And I also need to ground these 2 wires on the other side of the switch. I'm lost. Thanks!!!



Battery -> relay -> lights - > ground
battery -> relay - > switch -> ground

Real easy setup. I just can't read the wiring diagram. What is a "passing light" and all that nonsense? Lol.

I have an 89 GTI. Ty!!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 2:41 am
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Location: Canada
Wait a minute, I'm dumb. It was a long night. I think the RedWhite wire is hot from the column and I could probably connect it to the wire coming from the front. Just need to ground it instead of making it hot. I think.

Dunno. I'll poke around more.

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91 Pontiac Firefly.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:48 am 
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Location: Canada
Image

Okay, that's the low beam wiring diagram.

The brown thing is the steering column switch.

The green is the hot from the battery. Basically, I ran hot to both the coil and the switch on the relay. I ran the purple wire from the coil to the red/white wire (I think) of the switch on the column. So, when the switch on the column is grounded, the coil energizes and establishes the connection on the relay, which is a 2nd hot wire that is run out to the headlights.

So basically there's only 2 wires that run any distance.

I also took the time to run it along the front of the car and connected them all up close to the fusebox. And since I was running my wires along there, I reran my clearance light and turn signal light too, and now I have no wiring on the passenger side of my car. Very clean.

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"Apollo 13", 436,600km | 89 Swift GTi -dead-
91 Pontiac Firefly.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:52 am 
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Location: Canada
OH and I didn't mention the dumb things I did either. I should!!!!!

Try not to confuse the red/white wire with the red/yellow wire which is the daytime running lights. I thought it was really cute chopping the crap out of my wiring because I had beams and clearance lights at the same time, then beams and no clearance, and then finally realizing my mistake.

A multimeter is a slightly better tool than a hot tester when it comes to figuring out switches. Just more convenient.

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"Apollo 13", 436,600km | 89 Swift GTi -dead-
91 Pontiac Firefly.


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 Post subject: Light relay?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:02 pm
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Location: Vancouver BC
I have no low beams, well, they come and go, the emergency brake (daytime running lights) down you can hear the relay click, fog lights on ( I found this relay attached to steering column of sorts) but can hear the ~click~ of the relay but cannot find the darn thing.

My ears tell me that it's above the column close to the windshield .. anyone certain???

89 gti


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:06 am 
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Location: MO, USA
Seems like the 89 gti get all the electrical problems. My guess is lack of relays?

To the OP. Looks a little dubious with all that on the battery. Do we need 2 batteries in our 89s? lol

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:07 pm 
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An '89 shouldn't have DRLs, but if it does, the module is on the metal dash brace, just left of the steering column.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:33 pm
Posts: 181
Location: Michigan
Does that extra 2 volts reduce the life of the bulbs?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:06 am 
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Location: Oregon
The headlight bulbs were designed for full system voltage which is what you'll get by doing the mod. Over the 4 years since I made the change I've burned out 1 bulb.

Q


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 7:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:33 pm
Posts: 181
Location: Michigan
Ok i was just maken sure cuz im probly gonna invest in some sylvania silver start ultras and do this mod, my lights r so bad i had to drive the other night in the rain ya i could see 4 ft in front of me thats it, so i just drive around with my high beams on and ya no one ever flashes me..


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 3:44 am
Posts: 435
Location: castlerock Wa,
Here is how i wired mine. but if you have ac it will not work.
I used 12 gauge wire about 25 feet should do it, Two 30amp relays, and a box of female conectors, soder and heat shrink tubing.
1. I installed glass headlight's but it dosen't affect the install minuse the diffrent plug. i cut both of the headlight plug's off and bent and heat shrinked the pass side and tucked it into the fender.
2. I removed the fuse box and removed the plastic that are used to hold the A/C relays.image_id: 20905image_id: 20906

3. The fuse to the right of the main fuse is not used i belive it is for the A/C. image_id: 20904
under the fuse box there is a male spade conecter that is conected to the fuse above.image_id: 20903

4. I used a female conecter i cut off a spair engine harness, it has two 12guage wires soderd to it along with two 16guage wires about 6in long. the fuse should already be a 30a.

5. the w/b Red r/w wire from the driver headlight was extended up to the fuse box. the w/b wires and the 16g wires were conected with the same female spade conector, then hooked to the relay.

this works without a problem and allows the use of the empty relay holder in the fuse box to make a clean install. It also eliminats the need for two more wires goin to the batt and two inline fuses. I do recomend upgrading to 4guage from the alt while doin this mod. i made a wiring diagram but it looks like chicken scratch.image_id: 20912

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:45 pm
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Location: Norcross, GA
i wish there was a plain, simple, and clean wiring diagram for this mod. :|


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Do you really need a wiring diagram to wire 2 lights to 2 relays?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:34 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, Best Cannabis
BOOMbox wrote:
i wish there was a plain, simple, and clean wiring diagram for this mod. :|


I drew a nice one for myself, then lost it :evil:. After I had installed everything. I run 160W highbeams as my night driving lights (they are aimed lower as to not blind oncoming traffic)

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:17 pm 
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Location: Norcross, GA
dang! be sure to let know if you find it or make another. :buzz:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:01 am 
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I could re-trace my circuit and re-draw it, that could take hours and I have no incentive.

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:44 pm 
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Location: Norcross, GA
haha i understand


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 2:11 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2012 5:00 am
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Location: new york
Once everything is removed, I see a bug in the system. If the high beams are involved, stay active even after switching relay should be disconnected. They only return once the lights went out, and the low beam switched on again. I guess that I get a weird sort of ground loop situtuation. Relay is supported by the system of the plant in the soil, which can still be affected by defects in other cables. Automobiles featured in this discussion is the second vehicle I have done in this mod, and both vehicles suffered the beam bug. I have found through experiments that if the diode is soldered in series with one wire from the relay coil, the beam will behave normally. Polarity does not matter either: shock:.

Thus there are 12 V to one side of the coil and the other side of the coil are connected to ground through switch lighthouse? And highbeams once was, remains until the switch is completely turned off? The only way you could fit on the highbeams is whether the switch is still on the ground relay light. I will be poking around with a multimeter. Something is not right.

I added a relay lamp, for several vehicles and has no bugs, but they have turned positive light.

U wiring diagram? You're beautiful like a thread for DRL.

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