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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:58 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Venezuela
Guys, good morning, just a general question about fuses.

Recently I revisited my charging system (while engine running) to find out 14.3V at the ALT and 13.2 on the rest of the under hood fuse box. After some paint removing and putting cables metal - to - metal, now the fuse box reads 14.3v too. Now I am looking at the under dash fuse box. Some fuses have 13.2 and others 13.9. But, checking the feed of the fuses (while engine off and comparing the 12.6 reading of the under hood fuse box), the feed reads 12.6v, and I don´t know why am I loosing power on the fuse. After a drive the ignition fuse is warm, more like normally warm that weirdly warm (it controls almost everything on the car) but not hot, and show a drop of 1.26 volts and I don´t know why. I exchanged the fuse with other in the fuse box and has the same behaviour, being me just a DIY average guy and unable to apply my computer skills to a carbureted car :P I am googling around trying to understand if that (20 amps btw) fuse is bad or the circuit is overloaded.

And yes, is the same Swift / Metro with the weber carb and the electric choke. The circuit is still in its original state, it feeds the following: fuel pump, ignition coil, power windows, turn signal, A/C feeds, Radio feed, ALT signal, even the Reverse lamp, almost everything. Unplugging the fuse leaves the car dead, the only thing that works is the starter and the head / tail lights :P

Could I be overloading the circuit? bad wiring? bad fuse?

I do remember I fixed a problem with the choke heater element that blew a diode used to feed the fuel pump, I had to install a relay feeded from the coil to get the signal but besides that everything ran fine. And both the MSD coil and the Weber carb were installed at the same time, but never checked at that time the voltage.

Oh, I remember something, I also installed a temp gauge that has a feed from the coil wiring too, and the needle drops and reads lower every time I use the power windows, A/C, head lights, reverse, turn signals (it drops in every click of the signal). It has behaved like that since I installed it, long before the carburetor and coil upgrade.

I was also thinking, what if I setup a relay? so that the ignition signal activates the relay from the fuse side that get energized, and then the relay feeds power from the under hood fuse box that has 14V to the fuse side that feeds the systems? all this using the existing fuse conector. I was thinking about that option today so that I don´t mess with the wiring, the problem I have is where to put a fuse between the relay and the fuse box. Also I don´t know if I am breaking some electric rule that may compromise the whole electrical system.

Oh I almost forgot, with only the engine on, the fuse reads 13.6v, and with all the loads (lights, a/c, radio, turn signals...) the voltages goes down to 12.6, 12.3 but never to 11, the least I have seen it drop is to 12.2v.

_________________
Suzuki Swift GLX - 1.6L - SOCH 16 valves - Carb Model
Mods: Auto Tranny Cooler
Weber 32/36 kit from Toyota Tercel
2 row aluminiun radiator


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