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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:31 am
Posts: 8
Location: Puerto Rico
Hi guys, Last year the tranny sort of fell out of place and the axel slipped out. The mechanic replaced the axel and the mount. Last week it happended again. I started dismantling and noticed the tranny mount is ok
but I lost the bolt and I do not see a threaded nut welded to the sheetmetal where the mount goes screwed in. Has anybody had this problem before? Can I open access to the sheet metal from the wheelwell and use washers and two nuts to secure the bolt? I would appreciate any suggestion. ( the car had been in an accident before I purchased it so per the diagrams I noticed I am missing a mount cover of some sort.)


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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11657
Location: columbus, ohio
on the left side, the big engine mount on the end of the bracket arm has a mount cage that accepts the big bolt that connects the mount to the frame rail. it also has 4 smaller m8 bolts that holds the cage to the frame rail.

on some engine swaps i've done i have used a hole saw to bore an access hole in the outer wall of the frame rail from the wheel well to add a big fender washer and flange nut on the big mount bolt. i located, drilled and tapped the 4 holes for the smaller cage bolts.

i found big electrical punch out caps at the hardware store and selected a hole saw sized to fit those. after i had all the holes for the mount finished i used silicone sealant to cover the access hole to keep splashed water out of the frame rail.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:31 am
Posts: 8
Location: Puerto Rico
Thanks T3!
I am going to do exactly what you mentioned. I will search the junkyards for the mount cage. Thanks once again.


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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 1:13 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2008 12:41 am
Posts: 170
Location: Oregon
I have drilled all the way through the frame and used a long grade 8 bolt and nut.
Image
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91 Metro,93 Swift 1.3L 8-valve, 3.5 tranny, late front brakes, swift rear discs, late sway bars, Esteem seats, 205/50r 15s, build:http://geometroforum.com/topic/4850034/1/
Swift bumpers and taillights :D
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I sold this car to a friend at work. I now have a Saturn L which is an Opel Vectra B.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 11:31 am
Posts: 8
Location: Puerto Rico
Nice Job. Thanks for pics.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 4:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 19, 2013 7:27 am
Posts: 48
Location: L.A. California
Great fix. Have you thought about some eastwoods internal frame spray to keep out the rust?

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1998 3/5, GR2 KYBs new mounts all around, Spring rubber spacers for that nice handling and rally look, MB x 7 wheels, Drilled and Slotted front discs, ceramic pads, New Lower control arms, New inner outer tie rods, Urethane bushings and zerk fittings, Urethane sway bar endlinks and bushings. new half shafts, New front bearings, Dark tinted windows, New 2 core radiator, 195 thermostat, Push button start. Silicone hoses (blue) installed CS 130 (105 amp) alternator conversion.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 341
Location: vancouver island, canada
Drilling through is common for auto to stick conversations. Works like a dam.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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