Yep, you got it.
The altitude sensor was moved into the computer.
Our Chevrolet Sprints were the last carburetor Suzuki cars to be sold in the USA, although the Samurai had a carburetor for a few years more.
The point is, you are in the middle of the 'learning curve' of the emissions equipment as they moved from OBD I to OBD II.
In '95, most everything was OBD II and fuel injected.
Thus, a lot of the technology which was evolving at the time is included in our cars.
The 1980s saw most of the USA population dropping out of car repairs as carburetors got more complicated.
Most men couldn't keep up.
Now, the younger generation is trying their hand at mostly OBD II cars, and is finding them easy to repair thanks in part to their more advanced electronics, and because the younger generation is more 'computer friendly'...
Your '85 has its own diagnostic capability, but it is not as specific as the '87 on which tells exactly which system is having a problem. Considering the complexity of your automobile's system, you should be able to fix almost any OBD II car.
Those trying it the 'old skool' way of timing by ear, and pulling all the smog sh*t off because it is bad will never get their cars to run right. Nor will they be able to get the great gas mileage these cars are noted for.
You've GOT to fix them 'by the book'.
There comes a 'break even' point for fixing up these old cars.
You've got to balance the time you spend micromanaging the different systems with the time you spend driving them.
In order to get your money 'out' of the car, you have to drive it, as they don't have a large resale value at the time of this post.
Thus, smart money is all about fixing them up as quickly and efficiently as possible, and then driving them 'trouble free' for a few years, doing nothing but basic maintenance.
Someday, they may be worth a bundle, but until then, their value is best recovered as a reliable and economical daily driver.
Here's an example:
20,000 miles driven annually; switching from a 25 mpg car to a 35 mpg car
would save you $1000 per year in gasoline.
You switch to an MK1 which is tuned properly, and you DOUBLE that.
Performance modifications, now that's another story...
_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal:
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042DIY Clutch Adjustment:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281DIY Wheel Bearings:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003DIY Shocks:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483DIY Wheel Align:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!
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