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It is currently Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:53 pm

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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 Post subject: Starter
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:40 am
Posts: 47
Location: tamaqua,pa.
Can.any.one.here.tell.me.easiest.way.to.remove.starter.for.replacement.My.car.is.a.1987.turbo.sprint.
It.looks.like.a.hell.of.a.job.Thanks.George


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1183
Location: So Cal, USA
super easy

disconnect battery, disconnect spade terminal by pulling it off solenoid,
pull back the insulator boot and disconnect battery cable from starter (12mm),
loosen and remove (2) 12mm bolts on drive end of starter, these bolts go through
the transmission bell housing and into the starter body. Break them free with
a long wrench or ratchet then you may use a stubby gear wrench or 1/4 drive
socket on a small wratchet to get in there, or even by hand, if they tend to bind
up if removing with your fingers, then grab the starter body from the other end
and wiggle it as you remove the bolts. Keep in mind there is also a spacer
between the starter and the transmission that only goes in one way, when re-installing
this needs to be oriented in the correct position.
Now the hardest part is fenagling the starter out, its fairly heavy for it's size
and you may get greasy so best have some nitrile gloves on. You may have to
free up some of the wiring loom for a little wiggle room, it's a tight fit but you
will be able remove it from the distributor side if I recall correctly but one way or
another it comes out. You can always take off the intercooler and hoses for better
access and more arm room, and it may also help you to remove the 10mm bolt
securing the speedometer cable in so you can pull it out and move it to the side.
You have to clock the starter in the right position to be able to fish it out and through
all the wiring that will keep getting in your way, just work carefully and slowly so you
don't break any wires or hoses while extracting it from the cramped space.
All in all it should take about 20 mins to remove.
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:40 am
Posts: 47
Location: tamaqua,pa.
on.mine.the.intake.manifold.is.on,top.of.it.


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1183
Location: So Cal, USA
Yes, you will have to work around the intake manifold,
I just happened to have one with the manifold removed to
provide a clear reference picture.
Umm, that should have been clear in my outline of the procedure. =)
Hey, what's with all the periods in your posts?


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 9:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:40 am
Posts: 47
Location: tamaqua,pa.
space.dont.work.


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 5:04 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6362
Location: Emerald city Washington
..............And just would like to add
Dont forget about the spacer plate
The plate that goes between the starter snout and the hole in the transaxle were the starter goes in
.
without that plate Your starter 80% time will work about 50% of the time if your lucky
.
.
.............jv&s
.
.


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:40 am
Posts: 47
Location: tamaqua,pa.
Got.starter.in.but.car.wont.idle.below.2000rpm.I.noticed.canister.vacuum.switching.valve.connection.was.broken.where.can.i.get.one.of.these.


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 9:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:40 am
Posts: 47
Location: tamaqua,pa.
Anyone.know.where,i.can.buy.one.of,these.(chevy.vacuum.canister.valve.switch,


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 Post subject: Re: Starter
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1183
Location: So Cal, USA
You're screwed. Can you post a pic?
You can adapt one from another vehicle sourced from junkyard.

However, I've had luck repairing them with epoxy or JB Weld.
Assuming the nipple is still stuck in the hose, you want to superglue
it back on, lining up the fracture, then reinforce the outside with
5-Minute epoxy or JB Weld.

Or drill out the hole and use some small diameter aluminum tubing
to replace the broken nipple. Little more tricky.

Just make sure you keep the passage clear, if you decide to repair
it with a gooey adhesive.

I would almost say to just block it off, however these cars are extremely
finicky with the evap. system. If somethings not right, you lose power
on hard corners. Haven't figured it out, just know it happens from personal
experience as well as other Team Swift users.


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