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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 6:36 pm 
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since i had to pull the exhaust system down to replace the oil pan....
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no pretty powder coating on this one. it got a bitch coat of black rust encapsulator (because that's what was handy.)

i took care of some more rustproofing and paint on the bottom of the floor pan.
over where the muffler hangs on the bottom of the trunk floor.
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rear floor pan and fuel tank.
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here's what happens when you blow rustproofing into the frame horns. that pea green shows the entry hole. look at that seam dripping the phenolic/ zinc phosphate coating. normally, you wouldn't even think that the seam would be open like that. rust starts brewing in there and the entire frame horn is rotted in short order.
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here's the i/c coolant hose insulation installed.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:37 pm 
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Thanks for taking the time to post pics. Helps me any way to live through your advances. Getting CLOSER!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:39 pm 
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Dude the cars looking amazing I cant wait to here it.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:32 pm 
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with maybe a total cranking time of 5 minutes to raise oil pressure and check my crank pulley signal, i was going back through the timing one last time before i replaced the ignition and injection circuit fuses and cranked the engine to fire it up. the timing marks were off about one cam tooth between the crank and cam. i looked at the adjustable timing gear and the aluminum is some cheap, soft shit that the cam's locating pin sheared through like a hot knife through butter.

what a piece of shit! destroyed before the engine was even started! :evil:

i can't get to the junk yard for a late model cam gear before this weekend so i'm dead in the water as far as starting the engine until then.

the good news is that a teamswift member who is parting out his project car sold me his spal pwm fan controllers. i was planning on using one for my air to water intercooling heat exchanger fan because you can program a low and high set point and the controller starts the fan at 50% speed at the low set point and establishes it's own operating range between that and the high set point running the fan at 100% speed. it finds the best fan speed to hold the coolant set point somewhere between half and full speed. the guy had 2 controllers so i'll use the other one on the engine's radiator.

other than that, i've been hitting the chassis seams most vulnerable to rust and i'm confident that the chassis is stablized now. the last small places i hit tonight were the door skin seams at the bottoms of the doors.

since i'll have some more time to kill, i'm going to pull the door cards, windows, and regulators to apply the fatmat to the insides of the door skins. i have 2 more sheets left, just enough for the doors which ought to kill some cockpit heat and a lot of road and wind noise.

if i ever get to drive it, the car ought to be nice. =)

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 10:40 pm 
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amazing work

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 9:15 pm 
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i got a little time in yesterday evening working on the rear and final section of the exhaust system. my parts source replaced the fouled up order and the 2.5" 180* stainless mandrel bend arrived thursday afternoon. i have to say that this piece is thinner walled and brightly polished. it's also harder than x 9! i flat wore out a fine toothed metal saw blade for my sawzall making the first section cut. jeez!

i tacked the rear section together, mounted the entire system, and clamped everything up to check the fit. it ROCKS! :yeahyeah

i used the entire 180* bend except for two 2" sections that i had to remove to shorten up the sweep that transitions down from over the top of the control arm and then runs forward next to the fuel tank. the pipe doesn't drop under the car lower than the axle although you can see it drop under the tunnel if you look at the car from ground level.

since the big pipe has very little room in the tunnel i'm considering adding a couple of hooks to the floor pan and the pipe so i can use thick rubber rings to keep the exhaust centered towards the rear. there's not much room for the pipe's diameter between the sway bar link and the spring.

sorry, no pics this time. i'll shoot some as i do the full welds to finish and hang the exhaust for real. tomorrow, saturday, we have a 60% chance of rain that's supposed to move in tonight. i'll try to sneak the welding in between storms but i won't weld when the driveways is wet. i've electrocuted myself several times while using dc welders when it was wet and i really don't want the heart attack at my age. :twisted:

onward and sideways. :lol:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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My YouTube Channel
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SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:33 pm 
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you could always weld in the basement..... kitchen... bathroom.........garage?????

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:43 am 
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no room in the garage, never in the house.

can't sleep so i made a trip outside for some point and click flash pics in the dark. =) it's hard to get a good representation of the actual threading of the needle but the exhaust clears everything as well as it can. i used a jack to compress the rear suspension to check the fit.

Image

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:52 am 
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you wanna make me some exhausts ? :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:08 am 
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I understand your frustration about the electricals. I learned a loang time ago that most japanese and many european cars use ground side switching. I had two datsons that taught me taht lesson. As far as your flasher goes, yu can use a no load flasher thats designed for led systems.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:56 am 
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i did use a transistorized flasher. 2 things - it doesn't fit in the fuse rack because it's physically bigger and the spade connectors' positions aren't correct electrically. i used 6" wires with appropriate spade connectors to do a remote mounting of the solid state flasher which allowed me to re-arrange the wiring to work with the switched ground circuit design.

one other thing, just because the solid state flashers aren't totally dependent on load to establish their flash rate, they still have a minimum load. when i replaced all the lights with leds the flash rate was frenetic. i plugged the incandescent bulbs back into the front turn lamp sockets and the flash rate went back to normal. it would appear that if one is hell bent on using a full house of leds, one's only option would be to use 30 watt 6 ohm load resistors in parallel with both front lamp sockets.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
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My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:59 pm 
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TheSilverBullet wrote:
you wanna make me some exhausts ? :lol:


I know rite! Fitment all over this car is amazing!

Chris

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:33 pm 
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On my MPG commuter it has had two rear LED's and regular bulbs in the front for the signals. They do flash faster than normal, much like one burned out bulb would. It has been left that way because it is different and people seem to notice it more. The car is red and after 11 years of driving it with a bulls eye on it. I have had less close calls. So calling a little attention to ones self is not always a bad thing. Like no one will notice your car!! 8) 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:55 pm 
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the increase in flash rate incurred by using leds on a stock flasher is completely negated by using the solid state flasher. my car has a normal flash rate now. what i did notice is that even the solid state flashers have a minimum circuit resistance which means that you can't use leds in all 4 turn signals without big heat sinked resistors in parallel with at least 2 leds (one on each circuit.)

i finished the final welding and installation of the exhaust by noon today (saturday.)
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wagon stopped by today and he urged me to try to start the engine. i got the netbook set up and plugged in the injection and ignition fuses and rolled the starter for effect. we got the engine to fart through the exhaust and it sounded like it wanted to start a number of times. i made some changes to the ignition timing when the engine acted like it was lighting the fuse before the pistons were all the way to the top. the timing changes got it to fart through the intake.

i'm pretty sure i have injection, even if it isn't at the correct time, and had to use the flood clear mode several times.

i also had a couple of problems with the comm port closing out on the tuner studio app. it seemed like it was not liking comm port 3 but it would find the controller again by running the comm port detection app.

the coil on plug arrangement makes it all but impossible to use my timing light but tomorrow i'm going to try to rig a plug wire to the cop so i can get the pickup clamped on to read the number one plug. i'll also run back through all the set up tables on the megasquirt software
to make sure i haven't done something stupid like invert the spark outputs. i may even break out my little o'scilloscope to look at my v/r signal.

so, around 10 am tomorrow, i'll be back out trying to start this beast. wish me luck. :D according to phil's block on the teamswift pool, i need to have the engine running prior to august 10. =)

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:12 am 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
wagon stopped by today and he urged me to try to start the engine.

Meanwhile, Teamswift is waiting with baited breath.

so, around 10 am tomorrow, i'll be back out trying to start this beast. wish me luck. :D according to phil's block on the teamswift pool, i need to have the engine running prior to august 10. =)

Before the cock crows twice, you'll deny me thrice and she'll fire up real nice!!!!!

Bet I win that pool............. 8)

(crowd in background chants...video video video video....) :-P

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:15 am 
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unplug the injectors and adjust the timing BEFORE attempting to start it. 36 teeth will make your timing very steady even at starter speed (200? 300rpm?). make sure the spark angle on the timing light matches whatever setting you have for cranking spark advance. this should be set to somewhere around 6 deg BTDC since that's the stock base timing. there's a cool gauge in tunerstudio for adjusting timing.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 1:14 pm 
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thanks mathieu, there's a setting that allows you to turn off the spark advance controls. normal is "use tables" and the testing selection is "controls off."

i pulled the cop unit off the #1 plug and rigged another one with a plug cable so i could get the timing light pick up clamp around the wire. wagon rolled the starter and the timing light never hit a lick. i plugged each coil control wire into the rigged up test coil and never got the timing light to as much as flicker.

that tells me that i have problems. i'm not sure that my v/r sensor is doing it's thing, i'm not sure that the ignitors are doing their thing. you get the point.

i pulled the number one plug and checked the piston rise to confirm tdc vs. the notch on the cam wheel. that's good. my crank wheel appears to be a tooth off, on tooth #10 instead of #9. i'm going to go back through the trigger wheel and put my o'scope directly on the v/r output to make sure it's working. i'm also going pull the megasquirt and throw it back on the jimstim to make sure that it's working properly.

the whole "going high - inverted" / "going low - normal" selection has me confused as does the options for cop, wasted spark, etc. initially i had going high - inverted and wasted spark selected. then i punched in going low - normal and cop and cranked the starter. the virtual tach display turned red and pegged the needle so i set it back to the original going high - inverted and wasted spark. now it doesn't seem to even hit a lick where before it would fart through the exhaust every now and again. i hope i didn't smoke the controller or something stupid. :huh:

i wish i had you here to help me out. :lol: it's not like i'm lucky enough to hit the switch and have it start. :roll:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:57 pm 
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i hooked the o'scope up to the v/r sensor and got a nice, consistent 1.5 volt amplitude wave shape. that's not a problem. i used the scope to check some other things including the 3 small signals from the megasquirt that would trigger the ignitors to fire the coils.

no pulse.

i brought the megasquirt back in and set it up on the bench with the jimstim. as soon as i powered up the controls i knew i had toasted the megasquirt. the 3 leds on the jimstim that indicate the trigger signal output were all on and didn't wink, varying with the tach speed pot position.

serious set back. :cry:

i hope it's not a difficult repair. for now, i'm down until i find out what i pissed up.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:10 pm 
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3 leds on is normal if you have the coil output setting set to going low(normal)... You can barely see them flicker off if you rev past 6000 or so with the stim. Don't get scared too fast.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:37 pm 
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with the megasquirt back out of the car, on the bench, and on the jimstim - no change to rpm pot adjustments, all 3 indicator leds on solid, i can vary the mat, clt, o2, and tps inputs and tuner studio indicates changes.

there's just no response from the controller for rpm, no trigger out to the ignitors and no injection signal. i'm pretty sure i just killed the daughter board, a hundred bucks up in completely undramatic smoke. :twisted:

wagon shot some video of the first attempt to start the engine. i'll try my hand at posting a video for you guys.


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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 5:07 pm 
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Phil's going to be disappointed.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:04 pm 
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do you think it will be as traumatic for uncle phil as it has been for me? :|

it will take me 2 weeks to raise a hundred bucks to fix my megasquirt, a week to get parts, and a whirlwind of activity to patch it up. anyway, that sets me back 3 weeks to get where i was on saturday.

at least i have built the substitution coil so i can get a timing light connected. also, i checked the trigger wheel/ v/r sensor so i know that's working although i don't know what kind of signal amplitude the megasquirt is expecting to see. if i recall, that's a 5 volt signal input so it may be that a 1.5 volt amplitude is too low.

turbohull is reading my thread so maybe he'll help me get straightened out. i don't have anyone local for support.

the spal pwm fan controls came in today's mail so i'll work on that stuff while i'm waiting for ms repair parts to get here. i also fiddle around with the v/r mounting to see if i can increase the signal amplitude. don't worry, i ain't beat yet. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:53 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
do you think it will be as traumatic for uncle phil as it has been for me? :|


Image

Not.

I understand Uncle Phil's typing fingers are itching...but the video is SO soothing.

Yeah!

You are SO close, cowboy...or should I say 'Sparky'?

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:12 pm 
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hold on a second... your MS is NOT broken, ok? it takes alot more dumbness to break a megasquirt. reversing the coil output can only fry coils or ignitors, not the controller itself.


you're using tunerstudio right? if not then download it. there's a few useful diagnostic tools in it. you have a tooth logger and a trigger logger. you can use it to check if you're getting the right signal from the jimstim in the first place. you will have to set the 2 VR pots on the MS. there's a guide on pot adjustment >here<

how are the ignitors connected? are you triggering directly from the processor or from the LED's transistors? that tells you if you need to invert or not the coil output. this is relatively important, because the ignitors you're using are becoming rare.

that should get you started.

don't worry about the VR voltage. I got mine working with as low as 0.3V. it's all about the conditioning (the VR pots)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:12 pm 
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math,

the transistors at positions 6, 7, and 8 are shorted. i was using them as drivers along with 330 ohm series current limiters. they didn't short until i used an ignition selection field from tuner studio and changed the condition from inverted, wasted spark to normal, cop.

i'll pick up pn2222a transistors tomorrow to replace the shorted ones and press on to see if the daughter board was damaged.

i'm also going to haul the ignition shelf back off the car and go through the ignitors to make sure that they're okay.

i had a real problem with the pot adjustments and pretty much just blindly twiddled them. i do have a registered copy of tuner studio that i've been working from but again, i'm using stuff i'm not familiar with. the tooth analyzer/ logger was a bunch of tiny registrations with a sharp spike every now and again.

back on the course after hitting the hay bales. :D

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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