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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 512
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
:-P hey guys,want your info,good or bad,on spark plugs for my 1.0turbo,plus oil to break-in the fresh rebuild.i have been using bosch platinums for many years with no issues,pennzoil in my motors until i can trust them with synthetic,i will use a zinc additive on the first oil fill.any comments good or bad will be taken into consideration,even from the peanut gallery =) THANKS EVERYBODY!!----shane

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1.0 turbo
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
more to come...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:59 pm 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
I like NGK plugs, and whatever oil is on sale. I think any of the name brand plugs, or oil is fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:04 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
ngk plugs, hands down. i use either the basic coppers or their u-groove plugs.

engine oil is a personal thing. as long as the service and viscosity range is correct, everything is everything. :lol:

the old school thought is to break your engine in on dino juice and then switch to synthetic at the first oil change. the rings need a little friction to bed in and they just wouldn't break in with the synthetic.

i think i'll run my new engine on an initial fill of synthetic just to see if that's a myth.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd. - 1992 White Suzuki Swift GT

My Turbo3 Project
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:07 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
It's no myth,

The local Shaeffer's dealer chuckles about guys who rebuild their engines, and first fill they run their oil, which is basically all synthetic or semi-syn, and they end up with oil burners in no time. He think's it has to do with the Moly that is baked into all the oils, and Moly can't tell the difference between good wear and bad wear. So he sends people elsewhere to buy oil.

5-10,000km before switching to synthetic is ideal.

Mobil 1 is starting to gain a reputation for being rather lousy and rather overpriced.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:13 am 
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then i better run regular oil first then, eh. :lol:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd. - 1992 White Suzuki Swift GT

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:21 am 
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Location: Emerald city Washington
NGK BR6 don't scrimp on the plugs

It real doesn't matter what kind of oil you use as long as it has good property ...
It maters how often you change it ..............Every 3000 miles
I buy so many of these cars because people treat them like through away car and never changing the oil and the oil ring get gummed up and they turn into oil burners/smokers
doing one as we speak

yes synthetic/blend do have there advantage ...
but like gamefoot said they aLSO HAVE DISADVANTAGE.....
just go with an oil you can afford and change it often ...Or not .....
After awhile you wont have to worry about it in that car because you'll be driving something eles


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 512
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
thanks for the responses,guys!as for the comment on mobile 1,i have used that oil for over 10 years in many different vehicles and service applications, 1.0L suzukis to 9.0L v8 deisels.on the other hand,i tried royal purple in my wifes truck and it started leaking oil from rear main,only 35,000 k on truck~next oil change i put in mobile 1 syn,leak stopped almost instantly.thought i would try something different,only to leak and cost more money per litre,tried rp in my t-fly,started leaking/using oil,went back to mobile 1 syn,problem went away.anybody else hav issues with royal purple?ON ANOTHER NOTE,msd or bigger coil,worthwhile changing/results?THANKS AGAIN!....SHANE

_________________
1.0 turbo
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
more to come...


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:31 pm 
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Location: Saint-Jérôme, Qc
not engine related but...

I had a few customers when I worked in a Acura dealer who filled up their RSX-S trannies with RP and their bearings toasted right away (less than 10k km) after the repair and going back to OEM oil they never had any issues. I knew a few customers who raced their cars often and never had any issues with the factory oil so... the only damaged bearings we got in that period was from RP use, I guess it speaks for itself... I would never put Royal purple products in any vehicle. in fact every "racing" product that's available at Canadian tire and wall mart looks way too cheesy for me.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Location: Rivendell
An old racer, not a bold racer, swore by mobil1. In fact, he entered the car in a race series sponsored by Shell and had to be seen to pour the "good oil" into the car and round the pits... so he had a couple of bottles he replaced the Shell helix with mobil 1.

His reason? after using a number of top line oils, Mobil 1 came out of the engine the same colour it went in after a weekends hard racing.

I'll buy that.

And richard, that was a good joke.... but don't play that on us too often.. we'll start believing you.

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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 7:50 pm 
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Location: Chicoutimi, Québec
ellpee wrote:
... so he had a couple of bottles he replaced the Shell helix with mobil 1.

His reason? after using a number of top line oils, Mobil 1 came out of the engine the same colour it went in after a weekends hard racing.

I'll buy that.


Good for you.

As for me, I'll buy the dirtiest, sluggiest oil to come out of my motor. This way I can be sure that contaminant, dirt and metal particles are all carried out of it, and well.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:25 pm 
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Location: Regina, SK
Just for everyone loving the Mobil 1, the Mobil 1 we get over here is a Semi-Synthetic, it's a Group 3 oil, which a hydro-cracked dino oil. It also gets stomped by cheaper oils.

Pennzoil Platinum is $10 less a jug, yet it cleans better, protects against wear better, and is a stouter oil than the Mobil 1 of similar grade. Mobil 1 EP is a group 4 oil, which isn't well regarded either.

The stoutest oil you can run that you can get at Canadian Tire(amazingly) is Redline 5w30, it's a Group V oil, it's got no starburst but it's got additive packages that make most other oils look like they should be bargain binners, but it is pricey. I use a mix of MTL/MT-90 in my gearboxes, and unlike the Amsoil/Pennzoil YB Syncromesh types, I don't get the cold weather grinds anymore and reverse is much easier to find.

RP is very hit and miss, some is excellent, some is not.

If you want random quality, and/or just generally lousy quality, look at Lucas products. Thier oil stabilizer is the same stuff they have to preheat before it can be burned in a boiler, it's so thick, the 'Synthetic Stabilizer' is really just 'synthetic' 75w90 gear oil.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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