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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 12:37 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Did you try a fine wire brush to work the deposits loose on the screen, if it were me I'd probably try
using a pin or loose bristle from a wire brush to try to clear the debris. Oil eater works pretty good,
I used to get it at Costco...must have been some nasty oil in there. You could have your machine shop
hot tank it..
OE oil pan gasket is just silicone. No such thing as a oil pan gasket, I've seen them on the internet,
but that is not how the factory did it at least on MK1.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Ive tried a wire brush and a frayed up throttle cable I had laying around I guess I may take it to the machine shop to be hot tanked. I'll check the machine shop doesn't have one they'd sell me first. It had a cork gasket when I took it off it was a PITA to get off the oil pan if factory only used silicone that is what I will use. Fumbling with a pan gasket isn't something I particularly enjoy. My friend who has a bone stock mk1 non turbo car also has a cork gasket on his oil pan it leaks habitually though. Thanks as always!

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 3:09 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So machine shop said to use oven cleaner on the oil pickup they called it "Hot Tank in a can" so I'll be trying that. I have a question about the VAF So I plan on getting rid of the air box for a cone shaped air filter I was wondering if it is light sensitive. I was considering replacing the top cover with a some clear Plexiglass and am assuming that it's not light sensitive. Bad Idea? I'm going to have to increase the spring tension and want to be able to watch it while the car is running. :huh:

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 6:15 pm 
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You probably won't notice a perceptible difference at idle.
The main concern is operation at WOT, and WOT standing still is not
the same airflow volume as WOT under load.

Definately wan't to keep it sealed from the elements, if you slice the silicone carefully with
a razor on the black plastic cover, you can pry it out easily and pop it back in and it will
remain relatively sealed. I have mine inverted so that the black cover is on top for easy access.

For your purposes at this point it's almost a moot point as you'll only be doing a few clicks
on the tension wheel. If you have a high flow turbo, oversized intake tubing and oversized exhaust,
that's the point where you would want to tighten the spring up to half a turn at which point you
would need to access the factory sealed bypass screw to allow more air for idle because the spring
will be too stiff to allow enough air to move the flapper enough for idle. There's a fine point as well
if it's too stiff it won't move enough at idle and even though the bypass screw adjustment might allow enough
air for idle, you won't get any fuel because the flapper won't move. If you didn't have an accurate AF meter,
you would go extreme lean and not even know it, but you'd know something was wrong because you
wouldn't be able to drive more than a few yards if that.

Since you've got larger valves and port matched and ported the head? You should do the same with the
exhaust side and exhaust manifold and a few clicks on the VAF should be enough to eliminate fuel
cut up to around 10-11psi. Any more boost than that will just open IC blow off valve under load.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:08 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So I've searched for this in the fsm and have run into more dead links than answers. When installing the oil pump what side of the metal gasket do the o rings sit and what are the sizes of these rings? I ordered a new pump it came with the gasket but no rings. When I google the pump it shows having two O rings my assumption is that they sit between the gasket and block. as far as the VAF goes instead of replacing the top cover with plexiglass I'm going to just have it anodized(just the top cover. I'm concerned that the plexi may distort from the heat becoming discolored or warped to where it make make contact and interfere with VAF operation.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 6:39 am 
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I think the o-rings go at the bottom of the dipstick tube and where the tube going to the oil pan pickup goes into the pump.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 11:20 pm 
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That's right on the o rings.
However the correct oil pumps are near impossible to find.
They are not the same as the NA motor oil pump. You may be better off
re-using your old one. The internals are different as well as the oil pressure
spec. If it were me, I would use the OE pump. If you think it's worn out, you
can take it apart and check for wear per the FSM.
Most online listings will list the normally aspirated oil pump as replacement
for Turbo motors, which is incorrect. You would need to verify the part # for
the correct replacement pump.

Normally aspirated engines used a gear type pump on the carbureted versions,
the turbo engines used a rotor type pump. Basically the pressure difference is
that the turbo rotor pump has an additional 5.9 psi over the na pump.
42.7-54 psi na vs. 42.7-59.7 psi turbo.

1985-1988 carbureted oil pump Suzuki part # 96062263
1987-1988 turbo version oil pump Suzuki part # 96057368 (1987), #96062527 (1988)
87-88 turbo pumps should be interchangeable

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 7:55 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Thanks Woody and JS. My old oil pump was pretty caked with crap and I couldn't get those damn screws off to check was concerned about using to harsh of solvent to clean it so I opted to buy a new one. Rock auto has a decent selection for the pumps and I selected the ITM pump that was specified for turbo. It had a different part number than the non turbo "standard volume and pressure" pump. Unfortunately it is already installed on my engine as its nearly ready to go back in. Since both have the same minimal pressure rating I think whichever pump I actually received will suffice for my initial break in (boost controller set to nil and no high rpm's) where I'll be able to see via hand held oil pressure guage if my pump is capable of producing sufficient oil pressure to give her back the boost and iron footing. On a side note I have found the limitations of my new n/a piston/rods in an old thread to be 15 psi with correct fueling( Perfect for my build). Got my new interior nearly finished I'm quite excited that it's coming together as well as it is.

Thanks for the help everyone and advice and suggestions team swift rocks thanks to you friendly folks.

Pictures can still be seen at:

https://flickr.com/photos/146386930@N04 ... 6229624076

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:09 am 
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Nice work, love it. Love the pics.
Very intriguing can't wait to see more.

My daily driver is out due to emissions failure on a 2016 Cooper, complete nightmare POS.

I'm back to commuting in my project car, which I'm very attached too.
I'ts been several years since the rebuild, and still tweaking it, but finally hit 1000 miles
on the motor, which I think is officially broken in now.

Several other projects in tow.

Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:51 pm 
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Glad you like it :mrgreen: . Did a basic service of my injectors today in the shop started with a leak test and two of my injectors were partially stuck open. Did a flow test and two are even one is a little clogged ran a 5m ultrasonic clean cycle on each end they no longer leak however the one is still a little clogged. Going to do a full cleaning cycle on Monday to see if I can get my odd injector to flow like the other two. I noticed while I was running my flow test that the shop has a set of four injectors that are the same as what I've got so if my odd ball can't free up I'll snag one of those and see if I can't get a matching set. I got new o rings and screens for them I posted some more pictures of this if anyone is curious what the "reman" process is for injectors. I got the o ring for the oil pickup so the pan goes on this evening. Does anyone have a picture of a rocker making initial contact with the cam lobe with a performance cam? Im a little nervous about having too much lift and am yet to receive the specs to which my cam was ground.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 12:50 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
My experience with injector rebuild is basically, flow test, rebuild consists cleaning, replacing screens, o rings and and seals,
and flow test showing before/after results. Runs about $100-125 set.
My performance cam grind from 3-tech resulted in a vastly different looking cam vs. OE, I had no problem
installing and adjusting valves. Don't recall the specs, wish I documented it, it's in an old email on another computer.
But pretty much I had to adjust idle speed to compensate, lost pretty much all low end torque, and powerband
moved to the upper RPM's. Based on my specs, header and K04 turbo, 2-1/4" exhaust and target boost of
15psi along with other mods, it's crap off the line, no comparison to stock but when the slow spooling oversize
turbo kicks in, it's like an afterburner. Darn torque steer pulls darn near 2 lanes over and the Centerforce clutch
wouldn't hold worth crap. Clutch issues were fixed, and after a full rebuild with low compression motor, the
low end issues worsened, an LSD helped with the torque steer, and a 5° cam advance pulley helped the powerband,
and I was forced to install a high flow cat due to the noxious exhaust fumes.
I don't expect you'll have near the problems/learning curve I had if your keeping the stock turbo, and I'm seriously
considering installing the stock cam back in to see how the low end improves, but I'm still tweaking and want to
dyno it to see where I'm at after the extreme rebuild. I was hoping for 150WHP, last dyno before the rebuild
was 125WHP. It's definately a white knuckle ride when the boost kicks in. Looks like you've got an eye for details,
and caring to do things the right way, love the kitchen table pics. =)

I am curious if you rebuilt the turbo yourself and how that turned out?
As well as the stereo unit, I purchased a similar one for another sprint, then realized the pop out
screen may not clear the above controls and air vents, have yet to install it.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:09 pm 
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I've got to get the engine finished before I tear apart the turbo I'm down to just the workbench my wife kicked me off the dining room table :lol: . My friend and I reached the same conclusion that since it's a bushed not a ball bearing turbo keeping it balanced will come down to getting the new bearings in the casing absolutely square and aligned.. Luckily I have other turbos that I could fab into my build if my rebuild attempt goes south. Funny you'd mention the stereo unit fitment the unit I have is a clarion pop out touch screen from a turbo beetle my wife had it was a factory special order in vw's and some toyotas so I had to do some rewirig in the car and run my ground straight to the chassis just for it to turn on. The screen has a tilt adjust so I powered it up out of the dash then set it to an angle where it wouldn't hit my controls if I hadn't it definitely would have ran into the heater switches. Once I had it wired in I ran into a problem with the deck it is too long it fits right into the factory hole but sticks out about half an inch because it hits the heater box. I plan on fixing my cracked dash pad so when I pulled out the dash I was going to cut a hole in my heater box so the stereo can fully seat and then have a friend fiberglass the hole. The unit has a safety switch circuit that supposed to be hooked into the emergency brake light but since I've gotten rid of it for a hydraulic hand brake I was considering just taping the switch and removing the ground that goes from it to the e brake dash light And running it to chasis. That way the brake light only illuminates when my fluid is low and my wife can watch movies while we're taking a road trip. Keeping the deck from overheating will be an issue in the winter with it pretty much riding on a heat source. In the short time I had the car driving I did overheat it once. The unit is pretty much a small computer so it has a fail safe to shut down before it damages itself and turn back on when it's cooled down it took about 4 hours with the radio and heater on to shut down. The stereo system I have is proving to be more trouble than it's worth so I've been neglecting to address it. I wanted to put speakers only in the factory locations in the car so I bought the cutest little kickers I've ever seen getting them into the dash worked until the dash began to crumble and one of my speakers ended up in my glove box :shock: . The hatch speakers aren't even wired in yet because I can't get the 16 guage wire through without getting it tangled (doesn't help I lost my snapon wire snake last time I moved).. The valve springs can handle the lift and I'm nowhere near having any interference in the engine my concern comes from the angle at which my rocker meets the cam lobe as it starts to open the valve. I'll try to get a picture of this some time today. I just put the rear main in and want to give time for everything to set before l turn it over at all. I'm only worried about damaging a rocker from making contact almost completely on the tip of their contact patch when the valve starts to open up. Well enough talking today's my Saturday and I've got work to do. :buzz:

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 5:59 pm 
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So I need an injector. Ran another test and cleaning cycle with new screens and my odd ball is still behind by about 10ml of the others. Unfortunetly the injectors I found in the shop have a single hole not two so I can't use them. Just put new drums and wheels bearings on the car. This weekend the motor gets dropped back into the car as I start to button things up. Figured out why I had no horn the contact on the back of the wheel that comes from the column had broken I soldered a new peice of copper in so I will have a horn with my new steering wheel. Has anyone put a racing harness in a mk1 without using a harness bar? The few gti's I found have full cages and I cannot afford the chromoly right now I was quoted at about $700 for a simple roll/harness bar. My factory seats are going to be sent to the dump as much as I hate to see this they must be too far gone for anyone to bother picking them up. Hey Jamal I have a question. How do your turn signals function with your aftermarket wheel on the car? Do you have to switch off your blinker each time you turn or is there a solution for this I haven't realized short of tack welding prawns onto the back of my adapter?

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 2:55 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So I am rebuilding my turbo today I have it dissasembled if anyone is going to do this my tip will be that the nut that hold the air side impeller is reverse threaded. I've found that my exaust housing is cracked. The crack would make this turbo junk however I'm going to use it for my break in then fab in my Saab 3.0 turbo I just picked up. Pictures will go up tonight of my rebuild the kit is missing two of the bush's but the old ones are still salvageable. I'd say a rhb32 rebuild is completely doable for anyone willing to take the time and pay attention to detail total time is about 3 hours with cleaning.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Bad news cracked shaft, turbo is junk. Took allot of time cleaning before it was visible. Glad I noticed early on. I went to put it back together for storage and just the stress from the impeller retaining nut was enough to make it give. I would say do not attempt to rebuild one of these unless you have multiple pairs of very small snap ring pliers and spanner wrenches but still it is doable if the turbo is worth saving unfortunate mine was not. New on my to do list will be getting the exaust manifold from the Saab machined to bolt up to my engine. Interesting note about the 3.0 Saab turbo is it ran off of the front three cylinders of a transversely mounted v-6. Long story short it has been done before but there is no information of how long it lasted on the g10T. I'm into the Saab turbo and manifold free.99 so it's worth looking into from my perspective. If anyone knows if the guy who did this before posted on here at any point I would love to know I've seen reference to this turbo as "the big ass garret off the Saab 3.0" that's the only reference here I've found on the idea. In the mean time I'll keep on tinkering.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 7:56 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Okay time to make my stupidness public. I've put my distributor in. It only goes in one direction but somehow I appear to be 180 out. On a four cyl I'd say screw it and wire it to suit but on a 3 cyl that puts my rotor between 2-3 at tdc cyl 1. I checked my crank mark and the dot is at the arrow. I checked my cam mark and the mark lines up with the v mark on the top of the metal cover. I check my rotor and what in the what I'm nowhere. I pulled my timing belt off realigned my marks and my rotor is still 180 out. I pulled the dizzy again and tried to install the shaft 180 degrees from where it was and it is about 3/8" from sitting flush not going all the way into the hole. I'm using all the parts (cap rotor and wires) that I had before disassembly and matched all my marks what is going on? :huh: I've put close ups of my marks on my Flickr album. If I put my engine on tdc of the exaust stroke of cyl 1 the rotor is on cyl 1. My cap is directional and can only be installed one way. :WTF:.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:08 pm 
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So I think I've figured it out.. I may have the wrong cap? Somehow I had it wired before with #2 going to #1 and the car ran just fine because the others were all moved over 1. If I turn my distributor just past my mark that I made at the base the rotor is pointing to the #2 terminal. Maybe I need to lay off the brake kleen :dunno: I thought I had read that the #1 terminal is the top most terminal and mine is at the bottom left?

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:03 am 
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As far as the turn signals, if you get the correct mounting adapter for the wheel I think you just need to replace the roll
pins with longer ones if I recall correctly.

Bummer on the turbo, cracking around the wastegate is normal on these. Small cracks are liveable and I've run many
thousands of miles with them in that condition. I do have a seized turbo in otherwise perfect condition, will have to
try my hand at it one of these days.

Dist cap should have the numbers stamped on it. I've had trouble with the rotor before and installed it backwards.
It's kinda hard to screw up the firing order, there's only 3 wires. I've done it though and have a You Tube vid to
prove it of a new motor startup. =)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hHvqbxRBS0&t=62s


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:18 pm 
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Location: Oregon
New cap and wires come today hopefully this will sort out my ignition confusion before the cap was forced on backwards so the the cap I had the right firing order but only when forced on backwards. The new cap should either fix this or there is something very wrong lol.

Finally have my hydro hand brake plumbed in posted some pictures of my new headache. It works it doesn't leak my proportioning will be off now but this was wanted to force more to the front than usual so hopefully I can lock the front while using oe equipment. The rear won't lock via pedal but my hand brake will easily lock em up. Picked up some rubber wire holders to insulate the soft lines and reduce vibration am in the process of fastening the lines up to keep them from being a scrape hazard other than the one point a line has to come onto the frame rail. The reason I call It a headache is I've created 6-7 new points from which a leak could occur going to leave it in the parked position overnight and see if I have any tiny leaks.

Ordered a front mount 2" intercooler and an exedy 4 puck clutch with the pressure plate. Switched my path from the Saab turbo to a k04 from my wife's old car. Couldn't think of a solution for the Saab hanging too low in the engine bay without cutting up the manifold and I didn't get the down pipe to match it. Going to make a log type manifold until I can afford the real deal. I can pick up a vw down pipe for change and cut the flange off and then have my friend weld up a ghetto fabulous down pipe. Hoping to get this baby on the road by May now another deadline to miss.

I ordered a samurai steering wheel adapter that for some reason(maybe because it was $10) didn't have any holes for roll pins. Ill just drill some shallow holes and drive in some roll pins rather than waste my time trying to weld this cheap pop metal.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:15 pm 
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How do you force the cap on backwards? It only goes on one way. Doh!
I think I did that on my VW once.

Good luck with the brake plumbing. I did find a recent good source for OE proportioning valves at a decent price.
I've replaced several leaking ones and stocking up for the future. Why on earth you would want to go to a hydraulic
hand brake? Besides the cool factor. I've done a lot of shit, and realized later that actually OE was the way to go in
many situations, there's a lot of trade off but mainly HP driven, friggin' scary @ 120MPH they can only go so fast,
but how fast they get you there is the quest.

If you want to return your clutch I'll hook you up with one good for 150HP, stock pedal feel, minimal chatter,
no excessive pressure plate to wear your thrust bearings. Basically they replace the friction modifier on a
stock Exedy Clutch, with a stock PP. Last I checked you can still order an aluminum flywheel for G13, bolt
on for T3.

I'll have to dig up the adaptor # for Grant GT wheel...

Wondering if the KO4 has a different cartridge more compatible with small displacement motors?
definately need an EBC with that, lag is serious, got to change driving habits to run in higher RPM
for better response, though every build is different.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:42 pm 
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UPS lost my transmission today along with hubcaps rear view mirror antenna door panels sun visors and other goodies. What a setback. So motor goes into the trunk and I go back to searching. I want to keep the factory 12's but only have three hubcaps I'll have one ugly turd box now. Enough venting intercooler and clutch come tomorrow. So I'll have something to do hopefully this setback will give me time to do something sweet for my intercooler mounting. One step foreword and two steps back make the destination that much sweeter upon arrival.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:11 pm 
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My last rebuild was basically complete, but took me 2 years to fire it up
and tie up the loose ends. Now it's a daily driver because my modern car
is down due to emissions and I refuse to let someone else fix it (or break it worse).

I did my own tranny rebuild, basic bearing replace, seals etc. and fit a LSD
designed to fit the Euro GT tranny. Amazed it worked. Setbacks are the pits,
but they allow you time to ponder, address the other issues.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 5:17 pm 
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Posts: 121
Location: Oregon
So my daily driver (87 Trans am bone stock 70k miles in surprisingly good condition) was giving me issues with running wayyyy rich so I had to pull and ship out my new reman carb which had the float level set so high fuel was leaking out of the bowl. What do I do? I go onto craigslist and find me another sprint. Wasn't supposed to run but with $15 in parts a pneumatic dent puller and $30 in cleaning supplies I now have a red 87 n/a sprint to daily the cost of the car parts cleaning supplies and a 20 day temporary tag and I'm into it a whopping $180. Going to throw my old interior out of my turbo into it along with the blacked out grill I made for the project. I'm then going to spray my bumpers and trim red and pay the local graphics shop to make 2 sets of turbo emblems for it and my actual turbo car when I get it repainted. Watch for some jack wagon on I-5 driving the slowest car on the road like an f-1 with a big grin on his face that'll be me :lol: Once I figure out my transmission issue I plan on robbing the n/a car for its tail light rear view mirror. In the mean time that's what I'll be doing. Picked up new lca's for my turbo and plan on doing the poly bushing installation that I stumbled across VERY HELPFUL JS. I also found some interesting articles on redline for mk1 gti suspension upgrades. Trying to figure out how many differences there are between the Australian cars and ours in suspension components. :huh: I'd assume the front suspension would be a little beefier to support the 4cyl but don't think there would be much of a different in the rear. The amount of flak I get when my car buddies hear the effort I'm putting into a 1L just keeps making me more dedicated to making this thing something unique.

Has anyone tried to order the Mini Cooper racing tire's from Japan that come in our factory tire size? I found them but have reservations about ordering off a site that's half in Japanese. Had my buddy read it and he said it appears to be legit. I found with how I drive and with my cheap tire's from eBay tire roll was quite unnerving. With about twice the power (from bone stock running less than ideal) that it had before that's something I need to address. I'll do some digging and put up the url up sooner than later but am itching to go pull my wheels off my project car and slap them on my new dd which is currently running on maypops(may pop at any time).

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1175
Location: So Cal, USA
So, I'm not liking the poly bushing insert and shim in the LCA, but the strut/sway bar poly bushings are good to go in
several of my rides. I'm thinking of popping a new set of LCA in with the stock inserted bushing, though haven't figured if the
problem is the springs are too stiff, or if it's my tire rim combo. It's just been feeling a bit unstable, and none of the
other Sprints are like that, so easy enough to swap out the LCA's and see if the stock rubber bushing in the LCA is
the culprit.

I've got a Euro GTI manual, I can check for differences in suspension I suppose and post it up for you. And I've got repro
decal's on the back burner with countless other ideas, problem is I'm so anal about the decals, they'd have to be perfect
matches. I'd even settle for die cut vinyl as long as the lettering was identical. My hopes for an exact match of clear decals
is a pipe dream, though if I find someone good enough with graphics, it would be easily done. I could do it in photoshop
I'm sure if I actually took the time to figure it out, but as I get older, my spare time seems a commodity. Too many other
responsibilities and projects have quickly piled up, I long for the bachelor days. The 24 hour work days are becoming
tiresome, and priority vs. needs. vs. wants is all screwed up due to responsibility issues. Crap!

I find it useful to use the Google translator, or just translate the page. Not sure which tires you're referring to.
The U.S. is all F'd up on tire selection, why is all the good shit over there? We had some good 13" Yoko's available
here a few years ago, now they're only overseas. I actually have a NOS set of BFG 175/50-13 in storage, but by now
the vulcanization I'm sure is setting in, but still good for a show set. Course there's nothing in 12's other than
your standard passenger tire, but still available last I checked for the stock look.

I might have some cracked tailights if you're desperate or need only a functional unit. My biggest disappointment is
the lack of time/energy to scour the internet for loot like I used to. Lucky enough to get on TS more than twice a week.

Gotta admit it was fun today to beat a bumble bee Camaro at the light, and hearing both tires lose grip momentarily
in 2nd and 3rd. I get humbled more often than not, Audi's, Beamers and GTR's...Pissing of Aston Martin's is fun too,
but for what it is, this is why we do it, livin' the dream.

Hey whatever happened to that chick a few months ago who said she was taking her T3 to a level , pushing the G10
where no one else has?
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=62157


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:32 pm
Posts: 121
Location: Oregon
So I can vouch for the stock LCA bushings slapped a pair of them on not an hour ago on my n/a car in combination with the rest of the front end that the previous owner installed (new springs shocks tie rods ect.. But he never touched the lca's) IT HANDLES BETTER THAN I COULD HAVE EVER IMAGINED A SPRINT COULD. I was weaving through traffic the whole way home at about 40. Unfortunately I leaned on my braking shield and now have some scrape noise coming from my front left. Oh well I'll Bend it back tonight. Still looking for that URL is found them back in February allot of history to look through. I agree about her that was a beautiful sprint she had there wonder if she burnt a valve :razz: . When I had my new sprint up on the lift I noticed the rear floor pan was toast but in my usual manor I put my finger through it laughed said "100 dollar race car" and went back to installing my new lca's(took me about an hour because I stripped a ball joint retaining bolt when I smacked it out).. I'm so glad my turbo came from Idaho that thing is 100% rust free just all the rubber and plastic is toast. I'm pretty anal about my turbo project and want the tail light off my n/a because it isn't even scratched the one that came on my turbo had a huge peice of the amber and red lense missing so I used some brake light tape on it for a temp fix. If you'd wanna sell me a cracked one for my n/a car so I can slap the good one on my turbo that'd be cool but like I said 100 dollar race "car" I'm fine with the taped one on my new dd if you wanna hold onto it just pm me.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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