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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 12:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 15
Location: st. Helens, OR
I've stalked these forums for 13 years. Never contributed much since I couldn't contribute much. If I remember correctly I have an MK1, 1987 Turbo Chevy Sprint. It's stock since I live in California until 2005 and had to smog it. Moved to Oregon, Mike made me a cam; but I never installed it. Life, kids, school and all that. The poor thing has been sitting for a long, long time.

I made a deal with the wife a year ago...if I didn't have it driving by November 1st, she could sell it. Life, kids, work, a bad starter, alternator, fuel injector, water pump, etc in our daily drivers have distracted me since then. I drove it to our new home 2 years ago....but there was lots of water spraying from what I thought was the intake. I've had my hands in this thing for several weeks, found the offending water leak (hose from the water pump tube to the throttle body). I've already cracked so may bolts and nuts that I'm committed to replacing the intake gasket.

I have a Chilton and the factory manual...I used to pour over them for hours....more than 10 years ago (but I don't have to worry about smog anymore). Now I don't have the time to ponder what sensor or vacuum loop might impact another system. I want to eliminate any components that might be a problem from the get go. If you guys can offer any "quick wins" on this, I'd be eternally grateful.

I NEED to keep this thing and get Mike's cam in my baby eventually, maybe one day have something to contribute this forum.
TL;DR What smog sensors/coolant/vacuum can be eliminated on a stock MK1?

Anyone near Portland Oregon that wants to get their hands dirty...I could use the help.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1175
Location: So Cal, USA
It's really very simple, don't delete anything.

Just follow the vacuum line diagrams. It's a misconception that all those vacuum lines are smog sensors.
Those vacuum lines include important stuff like distributor vacuum (advance AND retard), idle control under electrical load,
fuel system pressure regulator and tank vent, and Vacuum assist to the brake booster.
Of the 2 vacuum switching valves one is EGR the other is charcoal cannister switching, if you mess with the
charcoal cannister valve you will have fueling problems.

Leave everything the way it was meant to be and you will be better off in the long run.

It is really very simple, just follow the diagram and or hood sticker.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:05 pm 
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a.k.a Bum head
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Joined: Mon May 31, 2004 5:29 pm
Posts: 3157
Location: London, ON
:goodpost:


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 5:22 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
JamalSpelling wrote:
It is really very simple, just follow the diagram and or hood sticker.

Image


I agree, it's best to leave everything stock. But this is a usage of the word "simple" which I have not run into before. LOL =)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 11:48 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
were do I start.?
.
PPPSSSTT....OP want some Free Horse Power.?
Do you know the Little turbo cars have duel catalytic converters.! Want to gain 10--15 Hp.? Cut those bitches out
that Restrictive stock Air Box...... Ditch that too
.
Here's a tip : The weekest part of our cars. 1987-88 Chevy Sprint Turbo
The Dizzy drive is stamped out of sheetmetal.
Keep an eye on it .

and one more thing Don't use Platinum or iridium plugs... No Bueno
.
..your welcome
.
..................................................................jv&s
.

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.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 15
Location: st. Helens, OR
Copy that. My '88 carbureted Sprint had so many vacuum and mechanical switches it wasn't even funny. I figured there'd be a few hoses that needed pinching to eliminate them as a source of "I'm not starting". e.g. my '05 Dodge Caravan EGR malfunctions and my wife is blocking traffic in the middle of an intersection.....good times.

So I have two cats??? You're kidding! I cut one out a long time ago....didn't know I had another. Do tell.....
And what the heck is a dizzy drive?

btw, you guys are great! Can't tell you how many forums are hostile to new participants. "you didn't follow this or that rule" "did you bother searching the forum" etc. Thanks for making me feel welcome.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 2:32 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:02 pm
Posts: 15
Location: st. Helens, OR
This rear motor-mount is a beast. Please tell me I can cut off the extension that connects to the intake once I get this thing off.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 1:49 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
.
So many answers,so little time.
.
yes two cat, converts,......
Two Biscuts if you will one is hidden in the exhaust manifold (were the bulge is)
Yes to a boost gauge
yes to a wide band A/F gauge...... yes there spendy but You dont want to run this little dude lean and this will help in the tunning

also were the ball/flange is on the down pipe if your handy get a exhaust flange off a SBchevy
and cut that restrictive part of the pipe out it necks dow to a buck5/8 or 1"3/4...
rework that spot for a little more GO... help it breath better.
.
I would be careful which vacumm hoses you eleminate (none) is they way I would go
I would be more worried about one of two relays not working (local on pass side shock tower)
one is the main and other is for the fuel pump.....always carry a spare.!
.


and in a pinch you could use a front mount for the rear just have to cut the (Tang ) off to make it work

.
Did we ask for pictures.?
if not I'm now
.
.
Me throwing you a bone
.
the pic without circle is of the two relays

Image
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dizzy drive goes here ...offset only goes on one way
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Image
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motor mount note (tang)on top
(turbo car running turbo-less)
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Image
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Image

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:32 pm
Posts: 121
Location: Oregon
funk45 wrote:
This rear motor-mount is a beast. Please tell me I can cut off the extension that connects to the intake once I get this thing off.


Just got mine off if you're removing the throttle body first you should be able to "motivate" that bracket about an inch to the side and then slide the throttle body off vwala exposed and easy to get to intake when your done bend it back. Pm me I frequent Portland and wouldn't mind stopping by to give you a hand.

-87PCT

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1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.


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