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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:14 am 
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Great job, the car looks very nice. I like the way your seat belts and seats look. The body work looks very good as well. where did you get the side markers? I see there are few of us crazy about these little cars in Alberta. I am still doing crazy stuff to mine, hopefully mine will be ready for the spring, I still have to do a full engine swapp and work on the bumpers.

Cheers

E.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 2:47 pm 
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Mcmancuso wrote:
Dunno about your climate, but in the Southeast, the black top is way too hot without AC. I'm gonna put a tan top on mine when I get a new one.


I was thinking just the esthetics, but you're probably right. Thanks for the reminder!

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:18 pm 
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personally, i like the tan top. it works pretty well on the white.

i also like the seats, seat heaters, swap, etc.

what do you think of the gt brakes with the vert's proportioning valve?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:11 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
personally, i like the tan top. it works pretty well on the white.

i also like the seats, seat heaters, swap, etc.

what do you think of the gt brakes with the vert's proportioning valve?



The porportioning valve with the rear disks... garbarge! You're definately correct in them needing a new adjustible valve or the GT porportioning valve. It's on the 'Honey-do List' :mrgreen:

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90 Chevy Sprint 'Vert Mk2 powered by a 1.3L DOHC and 2 rabid gerbils

'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:15 pm 
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monte_98 wrote:
Great job, the car looks very nice. I like the way your seat belts and seats look. The body work looks very good as well. where did you get the side markers? I see there are few of us crazy about these little cars in Alberta. I am still doing crazy stuff to mine, hopefully mine will be ready for the spring, I still have to do a full engine swapp and work on the bumpers.

Cheers

E.


I'd love to do the swap but I've had no luck in two years finding a GT... one worth what was being asked for it anyway. Even a turbo-3 is like hens teeth. The side markers were little mod I did a while ago... off ebay I think. I still can't figure out how to get them working but they've been admittedly fairly low on 'the honey-do list' as well

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 10:40 pm 
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I've been having this issue since it start running a few weeks ago. Here's the symptoms
- Rough idle when cold
- Almost seem like it's flooding until it warms up, and even then a bit - especially from dead stop to half way through 1st gear.
- Runs great in 2nd and 3rd. In fact it floats along without much gas at about 60km/h (about 35 mph for the one country on the planet still using imperial :razz: )

I'm thinking an O2 sensor. The car sat for a coon's age and who know what crud is on it or how long its been there. I could take it out and try to burn it off, just replace it with a new one.... or I found this after googling when to replace an O2 sensor and think I might try it first; I think I'll give it a try first.

4 Wire Oxygen Sensor Mod
The factory one wire Oxygen sensor works well for what it was designed for but it does have limitations. 4 wire sensors have been used for a while so it is easy to find them at junkyards. It is easy to test a sensor to make sure it is working with just a voltmeter and propane torch. Take the sensor you want to use out of the car and hook your voltmeter up to the sensor wire and sensor ground wire using the chart on this page to figure out the wires. Once you have it hooked up you should be reading 0 volts. light the propane torch and hold the tip of the inner blue cone on the oxygen sensor. It takes a few seconds to get it up to temperature and you should see the voltmeter go to .9-1.4 volts. Once you get it there twist it around to make sure the whole element is heated evenly and any buildup on it is burned off. The voltage should drop within 1-2 seconds to under .1 volts when you take the propane torch away. If it does not go down quickly then try turning the propane up higher and burn off any deposits on the sensor you can. It will not hurt the sensor to make the case glow orange. After a few minutes of cleaning the sensor it should respond quickly to the torch being pulled away from it. If it is slow to respond to the torch being added or taken away then it is probably lead or silicon fouled and you can give up on it and go to the next one. If after 5 minutes it isn’t working like it should then give up on it and pull another one off a different car in the junkyard. I would grab an extra one while I am at the yard just to have a spare they are cheap.

Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 Description
Black White Black Heater Circuit
Black White Red Heater Circuit
White Grey Black Sensor Ground
Blue Black White Sensor Output

The Wiring is normally one of these colors. Make sure you only pick colors from one column. Things are much easier if you cut as much of the harness out of the junk car as you can to give you as much lead wire as possible. If not at least get the connector and a few inches of wire to splice into your existing harness. The connections should be pretty easy. The sensor ground should run by itself to a chassis ground and not just grounded to the engine in case the engine has a bad ground. The sensor output goes to the factory Oxygen sensor wire. The heater wires do not have a polarity so one wire should go to ground but not using the same wire as the sensor ground. The other wire should go to the ignition and only have power when the key is in the on position and not when the key is on accessory.

The advantage wit the new sensor is that the computer knows when the sensor is working and will use it to adjust the A/F ratio. The old sensor would cool off at idle and while coasting and take a few seconds to get back up to temperature. This left times when the computer could not adjust the A/F ratio. The new sensor has a heater so it will stay working at idle and as soon as you give it gas from coasting. It also heats up much quicker so it starts working much sooner when starting the car. The most obvious thing you will notice the idle is smoother and it doesn’t hesitate as much when going from coasting to accelerating. Overall this is a very simple and cheap mod so if you have some free time I would do it if your car has a 1 or 3 wire sensor in it now.


Update: It seems to be working. The idle is better right off the hop but there is still an issue with what appears to be flooding out of first gear and while I'll have to wait till fill up to be sure it seem like the fuel guage is dropping faster than I'd like. I'll have to look into what else could be causing it to flood out of first gear this weekend.

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 1:19 pm 
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So I replaced the one wire O2 sensor

Image

with a 4 wire with the heater powered from the Wiper Motor hot.

Image

It's made a positive difference but it still not 'good' in my mind. So seeing as I had a donor that, as I recall, ran fairly well I started to swap sensors seeing as I don't know squat about electrical diagnosis... aside from I did get a 1-2 code which as I understand means all is well. So much for diagnostics :roll:

One of the first things I found out was that this line was plugged in my driver but not in my donor. It must measure coolant temperature or heat something. It was plugged and dry here...

Image

So as the donor was in better shape across the board I swapped the whole thing out. Realistically I should have moved one sensor at a time to find out who is the culprit but I didn't have that kind of time. I'll see today if it makes a difference. Also swapped out the alternator, belt, and gapped the plugs. One point was that the first plug from the right (3rd from the left) was a bit black... didn't like that :huh: . I wonder if this could be effecting how I don't seem to be getting much heat, and its only fall. Another ghost to chase...

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:25 pm 
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That clogged line goes to the ECU's temp sensor, if its clogged the car never gets out of cold start mode and doesn't really use the O2 sensor's input. You should see a big difference with that working right.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:43 pm 
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Mcmancuso wrote:
That clogged line goes to the ECU's temp sensor, if its clogged the car never gets out of cold start mode and doesn't really use the O2 sensor's input. You should see a big difference with that working right.


Checked it today and it's still dry. I followed the line and its not plugged. I wonder if the water pump may be pooched so there's no flow. Have to read up more on that. Economy is still in the tank. It's looking like about 200 km per tank-ish. Still bogging in first and smelling like gas out the pipe.

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:54 pm 
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Finished up the upper seat belt mounting point last night. It's mounted directly to the shoulder belt retractor anchor points using the same bolts. I started with a funkier design but couldn't make the tighter curves coming off the boot with the pipe I bought. It had to be high enough to allow the boot side covers to swing in when lowering the top. It also had to be low enough so as not to impede the use of the rear view mirror and not interfere with lowering of the top. I mounted it to the upper seat belt attachment points on the body so it should be plenty strong enough. I suppose I could have cross mounted it to the rear seatbelt mounts... maybe later. Mounted a couple of hoops to give some limited protection but without some triangulated bracing I stress the 'limited' part. I used hoops instead of one large loop to keep the cross bar out of the rear view mirror and hopefully inspire a bit of a 'roadster' feel to it. That said it has not been designed as a race or track car though... just a grocery getter for my girl. It ended up being too low to effectively mount a map light but ultimately there is one already so no harm, no foul. As soon as I figure out a colour for paint I can finish it off. I was thinking a matching white, but that might stick out like a dogs hind leg. Grey to match the boot? Black?

Image

I could have made a smoother transition I suppose but I wanted to leave the option of removing the cross member for paint or perhaps changing cars... who knows. I've got to wondering if there will be any advantage to body stabilization such as is seen between binding the shock towers? I'm no mechanic but you'd almost think so... perhaps not for the suspension though. I'll have to weigh the tube to see what it came in at when complete.

Image

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Image

Image

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As an afterthought it does make installing the rear boot when the top is up a bit of a trick as access to the rear upper portion of the cab is limited by the hoops now. I had to unzip the rear window for the first time to make it happen... that did make it considerably easier though :D

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:58 pm 
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Just a little upgrade today... I found these door switches on a new version that seem to be sealed better than the existing ones.

Image

As I recall I had some issues a few years ago with faulty switches corroding and grounding out killing the battery so I swapped them for these new ones. Same one wire. Maybe no difference but for half an hour it just might save my battery some winter night :mrgreen:

Here's a pic of the ones off the donor.

Image

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:24 pm 
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i really like your hooped crash bar/ belt mounting. i'd bet it also helps get rid of cowl shake, too.

now that you have the dimensions, you might make some of those for the rest of us. :lol:

your car looks like a million bucks. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:36 am 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
i really like your hooped crash bar/ belt mounting. i'd bet it also helps get rid of cowl shake, too.

now that you have the dimensions, you might make some of those for the rest of us. :lol:

your car looks like a million bucks. :D


What is this 'cowl shake' of which you speak? I'm trying to think if I've ever experienced anything like it but I don't think so. Mind you I don't drive it like a rally car like some do :wink: I could post the dimensions but essentially it was from the existing seat belt upper mounting point bolt to bolt, bent back far enough to clear the seat backs, high enough to clear the swiveling side bonnet covers and low enough so as not to impede the rear view mirror view and still keep it inside the roof top while it folds and is in position. It was all eyeballed with no measurements. The hoops were an afterthought as the initial intent was just to provide a mounting point for the seatbelts. As for making more... :ez_l0l: bwahahahha... it took me the better part of 4 years to get this far and my wife wants the garage back :mrgreen: . I do appreciate the sentiment though.

If anyone is really that interested pm me and I can take a few measurments, a small price to pay for all of the members who have helped me over the years. Perhaps someone else who has some real skill with a welder can show me how it was supposed to be done.

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90 Chevy Sprint 'Vert Mk2 powered by a 1.3L DOHC and 2 rabid gerbils

'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:20 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:55 am 
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There was a little 'mod' I did that I'm not sure will make any difference. A while ago I was able to score a bunch of parts off what appeared to be a 4 door GT. These included brand new stainless exhaust, shocks, heavy sway bars, brakes etc.(they must have been t-boned minutes after leaving the shop as these parts were spanky new; bad for them, good for me!).

While I had to mod the stainless exhaust to fit, its the shocks were the point of all this. While they fit roughtly, the clips on the front didn't line up to secure the brake lines. I had GT sway bars in already but these new bars, being off a heavier 4 door, measured even thicker so I used them instead. So now my thinking was now that I had installed the heavier sway bars, perhaps the shocks were stiffer as well, which may account for differences in how the brake lines attach.

Long story even longer, I cut/chiselled the old attachment clips off the old shocks and welded them onto the new ones(careful not to over heat the shock towers) in the position of the old ones. And walla... hopefully stiffer, sportier shocks all round. There's been no wheel hop or shudder so no problems there. Seems to sit a bit higher, but on Alberta roads with the occasional off road gravel trips complete with the incumbent spring potholes that may not be such a bad idea. I try to remember to post a pic later on.

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:43 am 
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Kudos on everything. For a guy who just likes to tinker around the house occasionally after a botched oilers game :P, looks VERY professional. Love the paint (from the pics at least) too, I caught a hint of the pearl along the drivers door in that second one.

Well done man, :clap:
~Jr

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 2:42 pm 
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Knuckles Jr wrote:
Kudos on everything. For a guy who just likes to tinker around the house occasionally after a botched oilers game :P, looks VERY professional. Love the paint (from the pics at least) too, I caught a hint of the pearl along the drivers door in that second one.

Well done man, :clap:
~Jr


Gracias. Just lots of time after the many, many botched Oilers games(it was getting so bad for a while even the Canucks were wiping up the ice with us :razz: ) for reading the threads on here and just applying what I've read. It helps being too cheap to pay someone else to do it. I've always preferred to buy the tool and learn to use it... one of those pityful 'master of none' types.

It's tough to get the pearl to show up with our pocket camera. You can barely see it in the shade. It really pops on the curves in the daylight though but unfortunately doesn't translate that well onto film(digital film anyway :) ) So far the paint has been the most expensive part at about $400 for materials plus the booth rental, the car itself was only about $200 as I recall =)

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 7:39 pm 
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A nice fall Sunday afternoon made for some garage time to see about tracking down my fuel and flooding issues. Lots of tweaking connections as the like, then my girlfriends moms boyfriend popped by who, while not a mechanic, is handy in the garage. He looks at it for about 10 minutes and then loosens these two bolts...

Image

and rotates the distributor thingy left and right while revving the engine. You could just hear the engine run better almost immediately. Not sure what that is but if it helps someone else save my headaches over the last couple of weeks it'll be worth it. I hope it will help with the trash fuel economy I got on the first tank (about 220 km). It should be in the 450-500 range. But no more gas smell and no more flooding so hopefully this was the issue.

It's starting to sound like a diesel now though. Not sure what that means aside that its another ghost to chase :P

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 8:07 pm 
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those bolts loosen to let you rotate the distributor in it's mount to time the ignition spark.

maybe you should go to the info at the top of the 3 banger section and read up on timing.

what's this "sounding like a diesel" thing?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 10:41 pm 
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Sounding like a diesel after adjusting the timing is not good. You need to set the timing back till it doesn't rattle on acceleration or you'll be burning holes in your pistons. Ken.......


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:28 am 
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91 ragtop wrote:
Sounding like a diesel after adjusting the timing is not good. You need to set the timing back till it doesn't rattle on acceleration or you'll be burning holes in your pistons. Ken.......


Good info and thanks for the heads up. I was going to drive it to work to test it out but I'll let it sit until I get home tonight so I can spend some time 'adjusting' the timing based on what I had seen.

t3 ragtop wrote:
those bolts loosen to let you rotate the distributor in it's mount to time the ignition spark.

maybe you should go to the info at the top of the 3 banger section and read up on timing.

what's this "sounding like a diesel" thing?


I did look for this, did a search for timing as well for the better part of half an hour but never came up with timing tutorial to speak of. I don't imagine you have a link you wish to share by any chance?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:14 am 
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Your engine has vacuum advance correct? If so, take the vacuum lines off, and plug them with golf T's or something, attach a timing light to the battery and the number 1 spark plug wire. Point the light at the crank pulley, there's a white line that should illuminate, reference it to the scale on the timing belt cover, you want it @ 8* advanced for best burn (decreased valve burning and no ping) loosen the 2 bolts in the adjustable slots on the distributor and rotate it until the timing line lines up with 8*, then tighten the bolts back, cut off the engine, then put the vacuum lines back on the distributor and disconnect the timing light and you're good to go.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:35 pm 
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incorrigible wrote:
I did look for this, did a search for timing as well for the better part of half an hour but never came up with timing tutorial to speak of. I don't imagine you have a link you wish to share by any chance?


the timing tutorial that i specifically had in mind was written up by jv&s. it had step by step pics and was easy to understand. i wasn't trying to be a jerk or anything.

i also poked around for it and to be sure, i couldn't find it, either, so i can't hook you up with the link. as a matter of fact, the search button was pretty weak. that's the way things go, a good reference is usually a response to a question and it ends up be fairly hard to search for.

in essence, you have to jump the diagnostic connector (pic for your car should be on the decal on the bottom of the hood.) that locks the ecu mapping for advance out. the decal will also give you the engine rpm for the adjustment. you use a timing light referenced to the number 1 spark plug lead to illuminate the notch in the crank pulley. it should appear to "freeze" somewhere next to the timing reference marks cast into the timing belt cover. you rotate the distributor in it's mount with those bolts loosened until the strobed mark looks like it's next to the fixed scale on the timing belt cover indicating the proper timing.

regardless of what the book says for timing, we all pretty much push the timing advance until the engine pings under acceleration. then we back it up until it stops pinging. timing will be slightly different for each engine but it will probably be in the 8 to 12 degree btdc range.

when you pull the jumper wire out of the diagnostics plug, you might have an overall advance of maybe as high as 30 degrees, so far off the scale on the timing cover that you can't read it with a timing light. you absolutely have to install the jumper to do it right.

if your engine is rattling like a diesel, it's imperative that you correct the timing before you drive the car. it doesn't sound like much, but pinging beats the hell out of the connecting rods and pistons. something will break and it won't be fun to fix.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:16 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
... i wasn't trying to be a jerk or anything.


Honestly never gave it a second thought, you've been a great and reliable treasure trove to info :D I'm just glad I'm not the only one not to find it. Either I'm not going nutz or we both are =)

Based on the great support and answers I went down to pick up a timing light the original position of the Timing indicator before adjustment was in position #1 (ie about 26-28*). Got the pic with the timing gun by suppressing the flash... worked ok.

Image

My plate on the hood indicated 6* (# 3) and it ran poorly, flooding out again (however I just this second considered that this hood was off a 4 cylinder... I liked the head light shape better and had to go with the hood to match :mrgreen: ). That said I toyed with the setting and currently have settled on about 9* (# 2), although it is still a little sluggish off the line.

When it was set in the 26 range it had snap of the line and no flooding at all so knowing I can advance it up to 13 and play with it a bit makes me happier. Good info all round though, and many thanks for the advice and cautions. It probably saved me a lot of damage. :D . I'll work with it a bit and see how it plays out.

EDIT: As is turns out I ended up at about 13 and it's runs great... so far. No gas smell, no flooding, snappy off the peddle... just how it should be.

On a completely different note just another little 'mod' of sorts... I hate the green rubbers over the dash lights, so I pulled them all off. Now they show up white which I like much better.

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Ultimately I want to go with white faced guages if I can find them at a reasonable price... we'll see. It'll be a lower brace before that though...

_________________
90 Chevy Sprint 'Vert Mk2 powered by a 1.3L DOHC and 2 rabid gerbils

'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Tue Oct 19, 2010 7:59 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:23 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Now that it's getting close to road worthy I got my girl a personalized plate for her car. Her nickname is Cricket (not because she's small (which she is) or that she bugs me (which she can) but because she has a habit of rubbing her legs together against mine late at night when she's trying to attact a mate :wink: ). I couldn't get anything with 'C's as they were already taken but she was happy none the less... I suppose in retrospect I could have went Criicket?

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The plate actually cost more than the original car, figure that one out :huh:

_________________
90 Chevy Sprint 'Vert Mk2 powered by a 1.3L DOHC and 2 rabid gerbils

'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:16 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:17 am 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Nothing like the pressure of selling your house in 45 days just before winter to keep a fire lit under you... so another small fix. I polished the head lights with a polishing compound and drill with a fuzzy pad. I was tempted to use toothpaste (heard it works as well) but didn't want a car more minty fresh than I am :mrgreen: Hard to tell by these picks but it did make a significant difference.

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Before

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After

But it got me thinking... I had some fairly noticably scratches on my plastic rear window from working on the car over the last couple of years. So nothing ventured, nothing gained I put the headlight paste on the rear window and moved the drill around enough so as not to build up heat in one spot an Shazam! No more scratches, the paste was able to buff them out to clear again. Neat! Almost like a new window again :mrgreen: ...

Image

I'll need to take it to the wash but it turned out much better than expected.

_________________
90 Chevy Sprint 'Vert Mk2 powered by a 1.3L DOHC and 2 rabid gerbils

'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sat Dec 18, 2010 3:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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