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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:17 am
Posts: 376
Location: Astatula, Florida
Any one every replace the "Top Header Seal"? Had looked at one at a junk yard last year but it looked like it was part of the windshield seal. I have a tear on the drivers side at the top of the mirror mount. Also need to replace the "Front Bow Header Seal". I have seen some on eBay for $35.00, but don't know if this is a good price? Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2014 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:14 am
Posts: 1887
Location: Prince George B.C. Canada
If there are no chunks missing you can use 3M rubber adhesive (the black stuff for bonding rubber to rubber. Not the yellow, yellow is for bonding rubber to metal). A very small amount will bond the rubber together. A very thin coat to both sides and it will set up in a few seconds.


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11645
Location: columbus, ohio
the rubber seal that runs across the top of the windshield and down the fronts of both a-pillars is quite expensive, on the order of $350. the medium density foam strip across the header isn't so expensive, $35 sounds about right. i bought one of those to put on the shelf for future use as the foam is degraded by environmental conditions, heat, and uv exposure.

search for an ebay seller <bowens> who has new stock listed for both of the mentioned seals. if you can find the suzuki parts group numbers for those items you can also order them directly from japan. the difficulty of that ordering process is a little greater but maybe less expensive. ordering the seals from bowens is much easier but a little more expensive.

pick your poison. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:17 am
Posts: 376
Location: Astatula, Florida
Questions-Questions-Questions :huh:
Started to pull of the old top tonight and what interesting thing can be found. FYI replacing with a used top.
A.When replacing the rear track rail screws - lock-tite or anti-siege? B What thread size are those things? C. Rear track rail plastic washer - replace stock (plastic) washers with plastic, SS, Who cares? D. How dose the side tension cable attached to the header - screw or pop rivet? E. My top wore holes from rubbing on the rear bow where it steps down to a smaller size - anyone else had that problem and have a cool fix? F.The piece of the top that raps around the header - glue to the header as well as use the metal trim that screws to the header? Thanks you hurricane Arthur for the rain tonight, its just what I needed. Thanks all.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 9:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
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Location: Emerald city Washington
the cable .? screwed in the front on a spring in the back
Here's some pictures to help
Start from the back and work forward helps if you can lay out the top to let it relax before install
and the side "Pooch".?
Can be adjusted after top has been installed a few days (by the way of the SS trim piece) that is screwed vertical were it meet the back side of the glass edge both sides....jv&s

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viewtopic.php?f=36&t=55822
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Factory Video
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viewtopic.php?f=36&t=36146&p=434293#p434293
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 7:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:17 am
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Location: Astatula, Florida
Anybody recall what type of glue is used on the header?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11645
Location: columbus, ohio
my secret weapon.
Image

they use that puckey to stick the lane reflectors to the highways around here. i only use thin beads at the header corners and in 3" or 4" long stitches across the header.

if you apply too much adhesive across the header it makes it really hard to pull off. minimal use of adhesive across the header allows you to detach and relocate the top in case it pulls wrinkles into the fabric as it shrinks. if you use the das adhesive, less is more. the stuff is awesome. clamp the fabric to the header until the adhesive sets up.

if you use the hartzz pinpoint vinyl, shoot for a relaxed fit, believe me, it will shrink and pull itself tighter.

if you use the stayfast or german sailcloth top, shoot for a tighter fit. it will loosen up as the car is driven with the top up. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:01 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:17 am
Posts: 376
Location: Astatula, Florida
Looking for the retainer clip that holds the tension cable to the pulley wheel.
Had one commit suicide by jumping - is now MIA and considered dead :cry:
Option 2 :has anyone made one that worked and willing to tell their story of how they survived loosing one of their own?
I fell your pain.

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If your using more than 3 cylinders your just wasting gas.
I spit on hybrids at stop lights.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 10:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 7:17 am
Posts: 376
Location: Astatula, Florida
Can anyone explain these? My seals line up great at the front seal and in the corner. Are off (high) in the center 1/2 -3/4 inch in the center. My top seals have a lip on them which I'm assuming should match the widow. Same seal I pulled last year have not lip (yes they sound different - no lip). The only thing I know of adjusting that comes close would be my door and that inside bow adjustment but neither would solve this problem. I'd pull my hair out but I've tried that and it hasn't helped, just made me bald on top.


Attachments:
Left Seal Corner.jpg
Left Seal Corner.jpg [ 45.38 KIB | Viewed 1772 times ]
Left Seal Top.jpg
Left Seal Top.jpg [ 47.89 KIB | Viewed 1772 times ]
Right Seal.jpg
Right Seal.jpg [ 34.96 KIB | Viewed 1772 times ]

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I spit on hybrids at stop lights.
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