TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Location: stanstead Quebec for
Alright, I finally took a leap of faith and bought my first ever suzuki product (Chevrolet sprint convertible )
The owner posted it on kijiji for the sum of 150$ (hence my username). It had a Ripped top, no engine or transmission and a decent looking body. Upon first inspection in the dimly lit garage she seemeducation great underneath but after a two hour trailer ride home and a closed inspection the following morning her real nature came to light. :evil:

Floors were patched terribly and I still to this moment have no.idea how I missed it. After doing the research I found that the effected area is not uncommon amongst vert owners...and replacement panels are like finding a needle in a haystack. So after failed attempts to track one down I've come to this. Has anyone attempted.to replace a bad floor panel with that from a sidekick or tracker? They resemble a bit so I'm curious. Any help.would be greatly appreciated and once again sorry for another floorpan topic. Sorry for the lack.of photos as well

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2013 Dodge avenger set 2.4
2012 Honda ruckus stretched and slammed
1984 mazda glc (klze swap in.progress)
1991 Chevrolet sprint (150$ low budget build)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:51 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
I note that some members of teamswift with the necessary metal working skills (such as t3 ragtop) on this site have performed floor pan sheet metal rust repairs using hand fabricated metal, or using metal sourced from other Swift/Metro convertibles or hatchback donor cars.

This is very tricky work, particularly when repairing Swift/Metro/Cultus convertibles with significant rust, as their unibody structural integrity is based on an intact, triangulated assembly of thin integrated floor/rockers/trans tunnel metal parts; this is unlike the Tracker/Sidekick, which has the added benefit of a thick bolt-on steel frame, in addition to a welded steel body.

Having said that, if you are simply looking for an alternate source of sheet metal of similar gauge in order to make a suitable patch panel, at least the Tracker / Sidekick models have available different new floor repair panels with similar contours as a starting point. (it may save you the trouble of cutting out panels from a junkyard.)

Example of a sheet metal retail parts supplier in Virginia, USA for the Tracker/Sidekick:

http://www.topbananaparts.com/vaf/product/list/?page_id=3&category=%3F&year=16&make=289&model=1022&trim=1024


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
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Location: columbus, ohio
i used non-rusted floor sections from a later model range hatchback for most of my last restoration project. i bent and hammered smaller areas like quarter sized holes from 24 gauge galvanized steel.

Image

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the tricky bits on a vert come from the shape of the angled inner rocker, the inner rockers of a hatchback are at a 90 degree angle with the floor pan.

on a vert you will notice that the channel in the floor pan that runs fore and aft along the rocker structure has rusted away. i have a local shop bend pieces that support the floor pan, welded to the pan and then to the original pinch weld location on the rocker tube assembly. i get them 57" long with a profile that looks like " l___/ " and trim them to length as i tack them up. i do full length stitch welds tying the 11 gauge channels to the rocker and floor pan. that gives you excellent strength, support for the floor pan, rust resistance, and it also stiffens the rocker assembly up to reduce chassis flex.

Image

if i did another resto-rod car i would add a cross member that tied the channels on each side making an H shape. i think that tying the channels together would reduce cross body flex, assisting the upper cowl stiffener on the vert's tub.

the nice thing about using the metro floor pans is that once you are done and the under coating is applied, you can hardly tell the repair was made.

i used eastman company brushable seam sealer and rust encapsulator to slow down the rust and then covered the floor with fatmat which keep water from laying against the steel. my operating theory being that verts leak, can't stop 'em. the fatmat is impervious to water so it acts like a bath tub and keeps the water in a little puddle in the corner that i can suck out with a shop vac after a hard rain storm.

Image

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 8:15 pm 
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Location: stanstead Quebec for
Wow thanks.for the awesome.detailed replies! I'm not new to body work or welding and fabricating for that matter because after all it is my trade hehe :D I'm just new to.this type of car and wondered if such a feat was ever attempted :huh: but I'm gonna order the floorpans and attempt it myself and let all of you know how it goes. But first.I need.to.look behind the rocker panel sheet metal the previous owner put in. I'm a tad bit worried about what damage lies behind that after seeing his awesome floor work...

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2013 Dodge avenger set 2.4
2012 Honda ruckus stretched and slammed
1984 mazda glc (klze swap in.progress)
1991 Chevrolet sprint (150$ low budget build)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 4:54 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
yeah, the rocker panels on these cars are 3 piece engineered trusses. there's an outer panel, and intermediate truss, and an inner rocker. the panels are all joined at a pinch weld at the bottom where most of these cars rust away to nothing. that separates the intermediate truss from the inner and outer panels that form a tube and all the strength in the engineered truss disappears.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:59 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:56 pm
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Location: stanstead Quebec for
Sounds.like a party lol. Anyways if she turns out to be in too bad of shape I'll just use her as a parts car for another vehicle or sell her for parts. I'm not deep into it yet so.it would of no.loss to me. Paid 150 for the car and it.came.with a complete.gasket set, alternator, starter, rebuilt head, intake manifold, throttle body, oil pan, valve cover and......a Haynes manual lol

_________________
2013 Dodge avenger set 2.4
2012 Honda ruckus stretched and slammed
1984 mazda glc (klze swap in.progress)
1991 Chevrolet sprint (150$ low budget build)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:34 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
if the intermediate truss panel is rotted, cut it out and use a a length of 2.25" mill run exhaust tubing. weld it to the door posts front and rear. use a cut off wheel to slit the inner and outer rocker panels so that you can make 1" welds to tie the pipe to the rocker assembly.

it will be nearly as light and probably stronger than the truss. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 3:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:56 pm
Posts: 5
Location: stanstead Quebec for
Well Its 4 am and I just finished work so I thought that while my memory is still rather fresh I'd bring you all up to speed. I started removing the rocker panels yesterday morning and I found out that the last person who owned my car decided to basically add a layer.of metal to the rocker panel over top the factory existing.layer. Worst part is its not even flush with the factory panel it's just some well bent piece of uniform steel that he just made work....well...after a whole Costco sized jug of bonds and a toothpaste sized tube of hardener. Anyhow after removing a small section of the "new" rocker panel I found solid metal behind it. Which only tells me that the problem lies somewhere behind it....somewhere.....anyway I'll keep busy st.it and.keep you all updated.

Sorry for the lack of photos each time I try to upload one it tells me that the size of the photo is too large. Any tips on how to fix this a**hole of an issue? :x

_________________
2013 Dodge avenger set 2.4
2012 Honda ruckus stretched and slammed
1984 mazda glc (klze swap in.progress)
1991 Chevrolet sprint (150$ low budget build)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 6:56 pm
Posts: 5
Location: stanstead Quebec for
Looks like I'll either be ditching.the project or start doing the impossible. The rocker panel behind the rocker panel
panel (Well that's redundant) is rotted out and if there ever was a truss there's almost no sign of it having.had existed at all. So I may go.with t3 ragtops idea and use tubing.to make it work... But as of right now if I jack it up between the front and rear wheels the door gap changes significantly.....not good.....soooooo time for some ingenuity and creativity to make this car a means of mobility. Giggidy.

_________________
2013 Dodge avenger set 2.4
2012 Honda ruckus stretched and slammed
1984 mazda glc (klze swap in.progress)
1991 Chevrolet sprint (150$ low budget build)


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