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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 1:17 pm 
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so my GTI's ecu is giving me code 21 and 33 (OBDI) which stands for faulty tps and replaced maf sensor. After doing a tps adjustment and test it seemed ok, except for some issues:
1: The previous owner messed around with the throttle stop screw, which is supposed to be factory adjusted. I don't think this is the source of the problem but it's possible to get inaccurate readings while adjusting the tps. Does anybody has experience in this matter?
I was also a little confused about the method of adjusting the tps: according to the factory manual I should get a reading of 3.5-6.5kΩ between the C and A terminals (picture attached), but it does not say whether the throttle valve has to be at idle or at WOT position. I'm getting readings in that range but only at WOT.

2: code 33 for replaced maf, but if I disconnect it the engine dies, so I guess it's at least working. Idle was better after cleaning it with electronic cleaner though. I also fear that if either the maf or tps are bad than the ecu gives you fault codes for both right?...I mean how could it know which one's damaged? Have been also looking for a method of testing the maf with no succes :cry:

*Right now the check engine light comes only on when pushing down the gas pedal, not at idle (it was always on before tps "adjustment"). I also have an air/fuel-ratio gauge, but it's not installed yet cuz I'm also having some smoking problems(white smoke) so i don't want the oxygen sensor to get clogged with oil, and it's a narrow band sensor so I guess the readings won't be accurate enough right?
Another point of relevance is that this car(mk3 GTI) does not have a factory oxygen sensor or maybe the previous owner changed the exhaust manifold and removed the sensor. I'm not getting any code for the oxygen sensor though.


Attachments:
tps adjustment.jpg
tps adjustment.jpg [ 256.26 KIB | Viewed 3560 times ]

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:34 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:09 pm 
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Those settings are for when you do nothing to the throttle. IF they were, it would say "before you measure, put your foot on the throttle" It doesn't. You need to adjust your TPS. Just follow the instructions step by step and after adjusting the TPS, check it again. dead serious, it can move, and do it with 2 people so that one can hold the feeler gauge dead straight and read the meter while you rotate the tps.

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 11:31 pm 
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ellpee wrote:
Those settings are for when you do nothing to the throttle. IF they were, it would say "before you measure, put your foot on the throttle" It doesn't. You need to adjust your TPS. Just follow the instructions step by step and after adjusting the TPS, check it again. dead serious, it can move, and do it with 2 people so that one can hold the feeler gauge dead straight and read the meter while you rotate the tps.


TPS has been adjusted already, but I was not sure about what the throttle position should be when testing resistance between terminals C and A. As I wrote above I'm only getting positive results (3.5-6.5kΩ) at wide open throttle position, no resistance at all at idle position.
At what position of the throttle should I get resistance between 3.5 and 6.5kΩ?... that's the big question. Hope you can help.

I still could not find a way of testing the maf for proper functioning. Will post the info if I do.

cheers

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 12:23 am 
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Found the info on how to test maf sensor. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53266&hilit=maf+sensor+test

I cant believe it was on the forum the whole time!

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2012 12:22 pm 
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Maf sensor was tested good and after clearing codes I'm only getting code 21 now.
But I'm still having trouble with the tps adjustment... I believe it's the position of the throttle stop screw. Suggestions anyone?

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 4:20 pm 
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Tried to adjust the tps again today but the ECU keeps giving me that trouble-code!
Adjusted the TPS with different positions of the throttle stop screw but still no success, waiting for replacement tps- sensor to try again.

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 1:23 pm 
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Help anyone? I'm going crazy here.

edit: finally installed air/fuel-ratio gauge today... readings about 13...running a little rich. Gonna try to adjust tps tomorrow following gauge-readings. By the way this model's got no stock oxygen sensor.

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:22 pm 
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Got the afr at about 14 today. Trouble codes still there but the car's running fine, so I guess I'll have to live with that until somebody tells me the "secret" position of that frickin throttle-stop screw.
Thanks for the 170 views and only 1 reply!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:00 pm 
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I found the easiest way to adjust my throttle stop screw was (because someone had messed with it)

turn the tps max clockwise and then back counter clockwise about 2mm.
unlock the jamnut on the throttle stop (8mm socket) increase the idle using the throttle cable till it idles smoothly approx 800rpm +/- and turn down the philips screw till it barely touches the throttle stop....lock it down

now, tps turn full clockwise, (follow the instructions on monitoring the tps reading and make sure you are on the right pins) place a .025" feeler gauge between the stop screw and the throttle stop , rotate TPS counterclockwise SLOWLY until the reading initially goes from showing resistance (mine showed 1.6ohms) to "OL" or infinite. Lock it down. throw a .012" feeler between the screw and throttle it should show resistance....if not, redo it.

NOW I measured between C and B terminals at idle....my tps read about 600 ohms which is a little high but its as low as I can allow the stop to go with a decent idle.... 0-500 is optimal. slowly raise the throttle while monitoring, it should transition Smooth and gradual from base (mine 600ohms) to around 3,500- 6500 ohms at wide open (mine was about 4800 ohms at WOT)

dunno if thats any easier to understand

if its not idling correctly still you may have IAC issues or the idle adjustment system may be funky....

I know when I installed the nissan 60mm TB....I had the TPS randomly set full clockwise and ANYTIME i touched the throttle the SES light came on and set codes....so it def sounds like you're out of adjustment

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 12:28 am 
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thanks for the reply man, I'm gonna try it tomorrow and see how it goes. I've also a maf, tps and IAC on the way that I got from a member here as spare-parts, gonna test the tps as soon as I get it.
Posting results as reference for the ones having trouble with this :)

EDIT: I'm getting the check engine light only when @WOT and I thought it could be the switch at the throttle-pedal, witch is not present (maybe removed), but the green connector IS hanging down there. My GS has this switch but I don't know if the GTI should as well. And of course the check engine light comes on when in diagnostic mode for codes 21.

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:35 am 
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Before replacing the TPS...follow the chart and check resistances, especially looking for flat spots in TPS resistance going through range from closed to WOT
if they're in range, no sense wasting money replacing it
as for the MAF...if the housing has been modified you may have issues
the actual sensor itself, thats certainly a try and buy component for the most part

don't see any throttle switch on my GT...shrug

5 minutes work and 4 basic hand tools to set the TPS before replacing anything

good luck either way

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:07 pm 
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Fiffle wrote:
Before replacing the TPS...follow the chart and check resistances, especially looking for flat spots in TPS resistance going through range from closed to WOT
if they're in range, no sense wasting money replacing it
as for the MAF...if the housing has been modified you may have issues
the actual sensor itself, thats certainly a try and buy component for the most part

don't see any throttle switch on my GT...shrug

5 minutes work and 4 basic hand tools to set the TPS before replacing anything

good luck either way


checked tps again today and the readings are "Ok" according to manual, but not consistent among the entire throttle range. I guess I will have to wait until I get the spare parts.
I'm also planning on doing the 60mm throttle body and over-bored mafhousing mod, but wanted to get everything running correctly first.
Progress on everything will be posted as well.
Thanks

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:32 pm 
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When doing a tps sweep test its best to use an old analog meter. You can watch the needle twitch when a bad spot is detected. Digital meters dont always react fast enough to to cathc minor glitches.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:38 pm 
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aqqus wrote:
When doing a tps sweep test its best to use an old analog meter. You can watch the needle twitch when a bad spot is detected. Digital meters dont always react fast enough to to cathc minor glitches.


That's a good idea thanks, gonna check the garage to see if I can find one.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 9:32 pm 
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tested tps and got some "flat" spots on resistance readings. Waiting for spare parts to arrive.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 1:31 am 
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Got parts a couple of days ago but some of them were damaged, specially the tps(it's even worse than the one I had before). Maybe I'll just cut it open, "fix" it and glue it back together; have nothing to loose anyway!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:49 pm 
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looking for tps sensor... pm me if you have one for sale
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=53985

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:57 am 
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Got lucky today! Bought a tps from a local guy. No starting-problems and no codes anymore :D But I'm having a rich mixture while decelerating and while slightly pressing the gas-pedal, the afr comes back to normal when pressing the pedal further more.

*the tps was adjusted with the stop-screw all the way in.

Any ideas why the rich-mixture?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:08 am 
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So this "new" tps that I got is making my car run rich @ the first degrees of turn of the the throttle (not rpm related). So I'm not getting trouble-codes anymore... but with the tps that I had on the car before, the afr was steady @ 13+ .... now how crazy is that?
so in my opinion:
-I don't think the stop screw could be the cause of this, cuz it's just a reference for the throttle's point zero.
-The maf-sensor can only cause lean-mixtures, so that ain't either.
-Maybe the ISC valve? (checked resistance and it was OK)

And my biggest concern is the rich-mixture while decelerating. This happened with every tps I used.
Please feel free to post any ideas/suggestions. I'll post a video as soon as possible.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 3:23 am 
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Is the TPS calibrated correctly?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:12 pm 
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deluxor wrote:
Is the TPS calibrated correctly?


Yes it is

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:40 am 
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So here's the link to the video of the gauge (using TPS No. 2)


As you can see the afr @ idle is OK, but as soon as I touch the throttle... a rich mixture occurs all the way till 4000rpm (on neutral). Everything gets back to normal on higher rpms.

The only thing that, in my opinion, is still unanswered regarding the tps; is the correct resistance between terminals C and A. This tps gives a constant reading of 4k+, but the previous tps showed increasing resistance among the entire throttle-range, just like between terminals B and C.

jankoelbola wrote:
I was also a little confused about the method of adjusting the tps: according to the factory manual I should get a reading of 3.5-6.5kΩ between the C and A terminals (picture attached), but it does not say whether the throttle valve has to be at idle or at WOT position. I'm getting readings in that range but only at WOT.



Does anyone know?

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Last edited by jankoelbola on Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:31 pm 
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I would deeply appreciate it if someone can check the resistance between terminals C and A from a good working tps, so I can use that as reference. Thanks in advance

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:59 pm 
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i just pulled my spare out of the bin
i'm not getting anything between A and C, i'm going to try a different multimeter.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:23 pm 
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crnolic wrote:
i just pulled my spare out of the bin
i'm not getting anything between A and C, i'm going to try a different multimeter.


Thanks in advance man

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