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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 4:14 pm 
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Swifted wrote:

what rack are you using?! I would love to get power steering in my GTi(the LSD kills me :-S)


I am using the power steering rack the 1.6 Swift Sedan. 8) due to the lsd, I cannot drive my car without power steering :wink:


Last edited by MF89 on Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:04 am 
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wow.
A lot of money in that engine.
I like the crank assembly it's love at first sight.
Talking about dyno figures isn't very relevant because you don't race the dyno chart you race a car so it's a combination of power ,brakes and stability.
If the care wins races it must be 1.driver 2.power 3 brakes and suspension.
If it feels fast and the engine is very responsive in the target rpm range them you did a good job.You can grab a beer and enjoy.

Using that 13:1 comp ratio with big itb's my concern would be the rod bearings , you need high oil pressure , knock sensor and afr all the the time.
You probably need a good 6bars of oil pressure at full throttle in the high rpm region to keep the bearings from touching the crank journals.Try getting some mos2 in the oil after you run in the engine.
You spent alot of money on your engine, make it last .
Enjoy racing !

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 11:29 pm 
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Another video :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:59 am 
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I´m pretty sure that 185hp with this specs is very very optimist... But it looks like a powerfull and well done engine. HP´s are not very important (at least for me) the important are the final results, track times, etc)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:30 am 
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mf89, great video. how do you shift so quickly ? my transmission will not take shifts that fast !

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 2:45 am 
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MF89 wrote:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:30 am 
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TheSilverBullet wrote:
mf89, great video. how do you shift so quickly ? my transmission will not take shifts that fast !


I have a straight cut dog box from suzukird.com. The ratios were specifically tailored for the track. Please note, that this box is not bullet proof as I have broken it twice... but I like being able to change without the use of the clutch. I also broke the suzukird LSD and replaced it with a gripper unit from the UK. I am extremely please with gripper performance.

Broken suzukird gearset
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Broken suzukird diff
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:54 am 
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yikes... time for the hyundai transmission swap !!
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52988

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Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:59 am 
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TheSilverBullet wrote:
yikes... time for the hyundai transmission swap !!
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=52988


Hyundia never :lol: If the box breaks again...I'll be installed the 1.6 Suzuki gearbox. The new Swift Sport/Ignis gears and LSD are direct fitment. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:06 am 
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Just another example of srd quality :lol:

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Swift. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/11473969@N02/
Evo. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/100754123@N04/


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:13 am 
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MF89 wrote:
The new Swift Sport/Ignis gears and LSD are direct fitment. :mrgreen:


Really? You don't say.....food for thought!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:37 am 
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dominator wrote:
Just another example of srd quality :lol:


I must admit that the gearset was not a tuff as I had anticipated. Once during a race I lost 3rd, 4th & 5th. On inspection... the counter shaft broke clean in half. I never broke an std countershaft yet - lol.

However... I have many many parts from suzukird.com and they all work and perform execptional well. My cylinder head, valve train and crankshaft was done by them and thats just a few. I have read on many forums about the service and products of suzukird.com... I know they can/may take sometime to deliver your items....but I usually have no problems with them. I have also been to Miami, met and spent a day with Andy driving around in his scion. He is generally a cool guy... but one must remeber that he's a salesman first and foremost... and his main focus is closing a sale. Once you bare this in mind you act accordingly.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:02 pm 
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That maybe the case, pre sale service is good, even had a phone call about the order, but iv been burned by them to many times over the years, one prime example is the pistons I got from them, 2 builds and a shed load of cash later it turned out to be a sticky gudg pin, send emails and no reply, it makes you feel like they are shunning you because im so far away
Stage 3 intake I had to finish myself, had 2 holes and just a loose bit of tubing for the hoses coming from cam cover, arp studs came with no washers, ex mani hit the sump, again I had to mod myself, rear 22mm arb bushes didnt fit and neither did the brackets, again finished by me
Im sure theres more people out there that are not impressed by srd quality control

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Have a look, you know you want to!
Swift. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/11473969@N02/
Evo. http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/100754123@N04/


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:09 pm 
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dominator wrote:
That maybe the case, pre sale service is good, even had a phone call about the order, but iv been burned by them to many times over the years, one prime example is the pistons I got from them, 2 builds and a shed load of cash later it turned out to be a sticky gudg pin, send emails and no reply, it makes you feel like they are shunning you because im so far away
Stage 3 intake I had to finish myself, had 2 holes and just a loose bit of tubing for the hoses coming from cam cover, arp studs came with no washers, ex mani hit the sump, again I had to mod myself, rear 22mm arb bushes didnt fit and neither did the brackets, again finished by me
Im sure theres more people out there that are not impressed by srd quality control


Respectfully acknowledged and agreed. I know of other persons that share similar experiences to yours. I had to make some adjustments to the valve train kit too. I guess it is a touch a go situtation. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:03 am 
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MF89 wrote:
Another video :mrgreen:



Did that guy go sell his starlet after? :lol: :lol:

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2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:23 pm 
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ROV wrote:
Using that 13:1 comp ratio with big itb's my concern would be the rod bearings , you need high oil pressure , knock sensor and afr all the the time.
You probably need a good 6bars of oil pressure at full throttle in the high rpm region to keep the bearings from touching the crank journals...

Hey ROV,
I'm a big fan of you hillclimb car ;) Oil pressure at hot is around 80 - 90psi. See that datalog play back


I use the J&S safeguard for knock detection and contorl.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:44 pm 
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Old pics of cylinder head. Intake valve 30mm, exhaust 27mm. Ported, polished and flowed.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:11 am 
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I saw this car in person last week while I was in Barbados, it is the ultimate GTi !!!

...those shots of the head are real beauties!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:55 pm 
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hi i have a question is there a reason y u used those particular itbs also how did u get the tps sensor to work correctly i also wanted to know how do u find there performance as apposed to 2 44s im thinking about one of the 2 of these setups but dont have much advice was told by one person in bim bike throttles will not work well but that makes no sense to me cuz yours working good enough to murder sr20 vvls all day :) the nissan men at bushy park where so pissed


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:21 am 
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4EverSuzuki wrote:
hi i have a question is there a reason y u used those particular itbs also how did u get the tps sensor to work correctly i also wanted to know how do u find there performance as apposed to 2 44s im thinking about one of the 2 of these setups but dont have much advice was told by one person in bim bike throttles will not work well but that makes no sense to me cuz yours working good enough to murder sr20 vvls all day :) the nissan men at bushy park where so pissed


I am using an aftermarket ECU (Haltech) which can be calibrated to use almost any TPS sensor. The biggest I'll probably go on 1300cc 42mm but you need the cams, headwork and valves to really take advantage of the increase air flow the 42mm would allow. If the motor is pretty stock, I'll prefer a 38mm ITB. I choose these particular itbs because they are the maximum allowable size in the current grp [2B] which is 40mm. They also are easily and readily available with the correct spacings.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:12 pm 
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MF89 wrote:
4EverSuzuki wrote:
hi i have a question is there a reason y u used those particular itbs also how did u get the tps sensor to work correctly i also wanted to know how do u find there performance as apposed to 2 44s im thinking about one of the 2 of these setups but dont have much advice was told by one person in bim bike throttles will not work well but that makes no sense to me cuz yours working good enough to murder sr20 vvls all day :) the nissan men at bushy park where so pissed


I am using an aftermarket ECU (Haltech) which can be calibrated to use almost any TPS sensor. The biggest I'll probably go on 1300cc 42mm but you need the cams, headwork and valves to really take advantage of the increase air flow the 42mm would allow. If the motor is pretty stock, I'll prefer a 38mm ITB. I choose these particular itbs because they are the maximum allowable size in the current grp [2B] which is 40mm. They also are easily and readily available with the correct spacings.




Colin I'm glad to see you have the car where you want it I'm sorry i didnt get my high compression job to work as well as I would like but I guess I needed camshafts. I'll see how it goes again I will look for a GTi to put in 2B.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:49 pm 
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Nice build goes really well like your little oil recirulator/breather nice idea being mounted to strut brace im running out of room in my bay for stuff,


Can you explain how the dyno 2003 works i do most of my work myself and looking to map my own omex 500 ecu again and looking tips ect

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 4:02 pm 
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Rossgamble wrote:
Nice build goes really well like your little oil recirulator/breather nice idea being mounted to strut brace im running out of room in my bay for stuff,


Can you explain how the dyno 2003 works i do most of my work myself and looking to map my own omex 500 ecu again and looking tips ect


Hi,

The Dyno2003 software attempts to gestimate the expect HP based upon a number of variables from cylinder head - valves, ports, cams, chamber design, flow
block - stroke, bore, compression, piston type
exhaust - runner length & size
induction - runner lenght & size

attached is a list of the information it requires.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 4:08 pm 
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Do you have to purchase the software ? It looks good something i could use

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Rossgamble wrote:
Do you have to purchase the software ? It looks good something i could use


torrent download


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