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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:10 am
Posts: 307
Location: Palm Springs, Calif
solarpower wrote:
I replaced the timing belt, but boy is it tight. I put in a Dayco 95171k1 timing belt. It fits, but the tensioner is literally maxed when in place. Meaning the stud is a the bottom of tensioner arm arc slot. Is this normal or did Rockauto send me the wrong belt? I doubled checked there numbers with the box and that is the one for the 92 GT. I will double check the belt tomorrow and make sure the numbers match.


I don't want to sound arrogant, but there are two different sized tensioners.
:idea:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:42 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I checked the new idler pulley with the old one. They are the same diameter, and same hole location for the bracket slot. It is possible that the one I pulled off is the wrong one as well. The new one came with the kit.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:47 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6319
Location: Emerald city Washington
ttttt


Last edited by jaguar,vettes&sprints on Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
More pictures of install:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 1:49 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I worked some more on the right rear caliper. I sanded down the end of caliper piston where it was rusted and some type of sealant had been used to contain it. I broke down the rest of the caliper and cleaned everything else down. I had to make a pair of extremely long snap ring pliers to reach way down into the caliper cavity. I am going to hit the end of the caliper piston with a belt sander and then work up to a really fine grade sand paper. At this point going aggressive is all I can do. This part doesn't actually go in the caliper bore itself. It does need to have a completely smooth surface for the seal to fit around. I figure the seal is slightly forgiving if I take a little bit off and its still round. If it doesn't work, it's time for a remanufactured caliper.

I also realized I had several of the same ISC control valves on hand. I didn't have a voltage meter on hand so I just swapped one out. It is the most likely cause of my high idle. I didn't even get a chance to see if it made a difference.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I wasted so much time taking apart the rear caliper. To no avail. The piston itself works now, but the the e-brake does not. There was a bottom spring guide washer missing. I went ahead and ordered a re-manufactured caliper. I should have just done this from the beginning. A lot less swearing. It sucks when you don't have the right tool(s) on hand, and no one in town has one for you to buy.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I got the left rear caliper in today (Centrix). Looks pretty. I also started tracking down a parasitic draw. It is on the tail fuse. There five system on that fuse. ECM, automatic belts, light reminder warning buzzer and interior dome light, (clearance, tail and license lights), and key reminder warning buzzer. I will be able to narrow it down right at the fusible link. Unfortunately, I have been sick with some chest cold and don't feel like doing anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:08 am 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11646
Location: columbus, ohio
there's a known issue with the dome light circuit in that the pin switches on the doors corrode and leak voltage. unplug both pin switches and insulate the connectors from the chassis. then measure for leakage. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 8:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
t3 ragtop wrote:
there's a known issue with the dome light circuit in that the pin switches on the doors corrode and leak voltage. unplug both pin switches and insulate the connectors from the chassis. then measure for leakage. :wink:



This is why I posted the draw. I got quite a few suggestion already, but this makes the most sense. I was looking for something that I had recently touched. I had fixed the driver side door hinge bushing. The new angle of the door close will have shifted the pin switch. I had already seen that the driver side one was missing some of the rubber grommet, but had not put it together with the dome light and the draw. Thanks. I will let you know.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Turns out it was the driverside automatic seatbelt. However, the dome light door switches are not currently even in operation. One of the previous owners took a 1 1/2 hole out of the passenger side switch. One more thing to fix.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Will she is running pretty good. I have started using her as my daily driver. Today I will wash her inside and out, and take some better exterior pictures if I get a chance.

Things left to do in near future:

1. fix door light sensors.
2. adjust inside door handle so it locks from inside.
3. put a stereo in.
4. fix horn, it is not working. I think the person I bought it from swapped out the steering wheel and didn't hook it up.
5. alignment
6. popping sound in suspension component.
7. find and install driver side window exterior guide rail.
8. fog lights

The list is narrowing.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Door handle fixed,

New inner and outer tie rod on passenger side; ordered other side.

Popping sound was bent sway bar link. Bent it out, and installed, but ordered two new ones.

Fixed passenger side control arm. Someone had installed it wrong, and the main mounting bolt was slightly bent. Replaced with spare.



Control arm mess up
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Bent bolt
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Ball joint rust.
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Bought a battery tray and cleaned up the bracket.
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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 10:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Hopefully today I will finish up the steering components:

-driver side inner and outer tie rods.
-also bought some energy suspension poly ball joint cover seals.
-sway bar links


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Some project update images:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Some more images:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Other things I have completed:

antena
stereo receiver
tweets on the columns
catch can (this is temporary thing until my oil rings are replaced).
Driverside door bushings.
Created a driverside internal mounting bracket for lower door hinge. This is the weak spot that causes most doors to sag.

I had to replace my front windshield, driverside glass, quarter glass, and hatch glass due to someone breaking them all out.


Today I hopefully will get the chance to put in my aftermarket fog lights that go inside the fog light delete slot.

Shortly: rear bearing hubs ( I have them on hand), kyb gr2 struts (I have them on hand), Moog front mounts w/bearings, H&R sport springs, rear whiteline bushings (I have them all on hand).

After this all goes in I will hopefully have all the engine rebuild stuff that I need:
probably oversized pistons, top end ring set, centerforce clutch.

In the mean time I have begin gathering materials for g13b turbo exhaust manifold that I will weld up. Still a long ways to go.

Other things I need: GT(i) driverside and passenger front seats, matching Modern rim, GT steering wheel, turbine tech top mount brace (I know someone out there has one for sale).


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 6:53 am
Posts: 67
Location: Oshawa , Ontario, Canada
What did you end up doing with your brakes you weren't happy with ?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:54 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
The only thing I have done to the brakes so far is new pads and rotors and replaced the rear calipers. I looked into buying the crx si calipers and still haven't found a set for the fronts. I even looked at the price for wilwoods and custom rotors, and the bracket that was necessary. Was that you who had the bracket? I'm currently putting all my time into three house projects, and working way too much to even consider doing any car projects. That is on top of my teaching job. Hopefully next year I will get to the brakes, but the suspension is next, and then a complete engine rebuild. My spare car is on loan which I keep fixing for the friend I'm loaning it to. The good news is it will be in better shape when I put this car in the shop for a rebuild. The other option is buy another g13b engine and rebuild it. I have a good bead on one, but I'm not sure how much damage is done to it.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2016 1:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
I finally got around to purchasing all the suspension and hub components. I went with h & r springs, kyb excels gr2s, and some monroe front top mounts (I'm not sure what rockauto actually sent me; they were close out top mounts). I will update the pictures when it is all said and done. I already got the aftermarket fogs in, and threw in some front seats.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Picture updates. I finished the KYB struts, H & R springs, new front mounts, new bellows and bumb stops, and I also finished off all the polyuerthane bushings. I also put on the protective sleeves over the heim joints.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 6:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Alright I'm actually in the buying stages for the engine rebuild (Finally).

I'm looking on Ebay comparing these two: Essentially Hastings vs. NPR rings with 75 mm YCP Vitara D16 Turbo Pistons

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191761498016

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131579400510

I have no experience with these and am asking for the opinions of others that have.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 7:10 am 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11646
Location: columbus, ohio
i used the npr/ycp rings and pistons when i built my lil' black monster turbo3 engine.

my machine shop guys liked them even though their parts side business peddles perfect circle and hastings rings.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2016 9:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:46 pm
Posts: 789
Location: Great Falls ,Mt.
I take it that these pistons will work in our G13b engines. What will the compression ratio be ? How much boost can A guy run with 91 pump gas ?


Ken..........


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:23 am
Posts: 165
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Slightly below 8.5:1 With correct tune and setup cars could run up to and even over 30 psi on a good sized turbo. There are already examples of swifts running over 300 horsepower. I'm not planning on being anywhere over 225, and really will be happy at the 200 mark. There are examples of honda engines running 600 horsepower on the same pistons.


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