TeamSwift

I Emailed Jet in regards to the sohc 1.3 swift motor and the reply is as follows:<br><br><br><br>We do have an ecu upgrade available for your application. The ecu upgrade does require that the factory ecu be sent to us for modification. You must purchase the upgrade package before sending the ecu to us for <br>The modification. Suggested retail is $299.00, and the part number is 65001. The ecu upgrades are all done per the application, in other words, do all the modifications you intend on doing before you get the ecu upgraded. That way the program can be set up for the specific modifications. Hp gains would be dependant on the extent of modifications.<br> <p></p><i></i>

I would think to do a chip based on your cars modifications they would need you to send them the car also not just the ecu. How are they supposed to tune it and dial it in from a piece of paper with a mod list on it? Guess that's why they make the big bucks. <p></p><i></i>

yeah that always seems kind of goofy to me... all they do is change the timing/fuel according to some preset guesstimates on your car and call it 'custom to your car'. The only true 'custom' way to me is to have them dyno your car while you are doing it. <br><br>That way is still has potential to be better than without. I think Jet chips are only WOT, not part throttle (or used to be). <br><br>Did they give you an estimate on hp/torque?<br><br> <p><!--EZCODE FONT START--><span style="font-size:xx-small;"><!--EZCODE BOLD START--><strong>Kyle Jones<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/myswift.html"><br>Junk-Yard Turbo set-up, formerly NOS-fed, constantly evolving 1989 Suzuki Swift</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></strong><!--EZCODE BOLD END--></span><!--EZCODE FONT END--><br><br></p><i></i>

I also bet WOT tuning only as they can get around emittions regulations that way. But you never know without asking. I am going to try making the computer see a bit less voltage from the O-2 sensors so it will increase the fuel up to the point where the injectors , pump or rail can't handle it and I think that would be beyond an affordable naturally aspirated engine in my car. I am confident that I can get enough fuel for a cam and header with full off road exhaust.<br><br>SuperChips made me a decent one off chip when I owned a 95 Probe GT. It made the car pull 4th gear at 8100rpm. It could beat a stock Probe GT by ~5-6 car lengths down the quarter on the street. Unfortunately I do not have any time slips to prove it but I am not an idiot either.<br><br>I am sure they would do a custom program without seeing the car but it would definately be a compromise. SuperChips sold me the chip with the promise that my car could run on their dyno to further develop the program if I could get down to Florida with my car. I just lived with it as they shipped it the first time. It did have a little flat spot at about 6200 RPM, but I lived with it as everywhere else was way better than the stock program was.<br><br>I later sold the car to my sister with the stock program, and still have the SuperChips prom sitting here.<br><br>Mike<br><!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :p --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":p"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>

From what there website suggest that they do increase power over the entire rpm band. A stock Civic they say the give 10-12 more HP I believe. I have been wondering how they make the chip to your car without exact details on all your parts and a little fine tuning. What if you car before the chip is no longer smog legal. Excuse me can you make a chip for my car, it has a 4-2-1 header, no cat, free flow intake, etc. How would they make a chip smog legal if your car aint? I'm really interested in your car Mike. The only cars around here that like to play are at least a Cooper S, M-3, and I got my ass kicked yesterday by a Viper. I'ts no fun when comprable cars to the Swift are just out there for looks. Have any of you ever played with Car manufactures top end sports cars in you Metros? <p></p><i></i>

Never. My '93 is a bone stock 1-liter winter car strictly for transportation and hauling firewood. My 2000 is the summer transportation car. It will possibly be something credible when I get some of my ideas applied to the car. It will never be a race car. It will handle well some day and be zippy but never a drag car. I suppose it could be a god autocross car in some prepared class with a good driver. My driving skills are no where what they used to be. Street racing was years ago for me when I had a car that I could compete with and was confident that it would win sometimes. I think to be very competitive with a Metro you would need to build the bottom end to handle the HP and RPM of a engine that is boosted or juiced big time. You get your car to the 200hp level reliably and make the chassis hook up then go have some fun with the ricers. You will probably win more than lose if you still have a drivers license after all the tickets you will be collecting. I have been there and done that many years.<br><br>If you are set on the JET program then get all the parts on your engine and give them the list and see what they can come up with. I would definately make sure there are a few times that you can send the chip in to get updates for the weird spots in the powerband that the first chip most likely will have. It would be impossible to get a program right the first time without your car on a chassis dyno. Don't be scared away from trying the custom software as my old Probe GT did have a very usuable program that SuperChips made for it. It wasn't perfect but it was way quicker and had tons more top end. The fuel mileage did take a dive though.<br><br>To get a header for your engine, you will have to have someone make you a flange so you can fabricate your own header. Lars' (GTi Couple) made my flange; there are plenty of others on the board that would make one for you if you supply them with a gasket or stock manifold to design it from.<br><br>To be honest, I would do the header, full 2" exhaust and modify your inlet for cold air and high flow. See if you need more fuel for this. Try a 10k ohm potentiometer in series with an O-2 sensor's signal wire and see what value it takes to drop 1v across the pot and then use the closest fixed value resistor in series with the signal wires on both O-2 sensors. This will definately give you more fuel at every RPM. First measure the stock engines O-2 sensor signal wire voltage in all kinds of driving conditions and make a log of what voltage is present at what RPM and kind of load. This will give you a baseline to see how much leaner the engine is running later with modifcations if the stock fuel maps aren't handling the extra fuel demands.<br><br>Now the engine might not idle properly with too much series resistance in the sensor signal line. You will have to experiment with that. I haven't experimented with mine yet but will try this and many other ideas to get more fuel into my engine.<br><br>Mike <p></p><i></i>