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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 6:25 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Pasadena, California
Hi fellas. I inherited this great car from my pop and I'm trying to keep it going. The trouble I'm having with my 85 Sprint is when I step on the gas lightly it bogs down all of a sudden. It's as if fuel just cuts off. This happens always when driving. I've learned to actually step on the gas harder on take off in order for the car not to jerk on me. If I want to cruise it at 55 MPG the car begins to jerk as I'm driving down the highway. Also when simply shifting gears I have to give it extra gas or it jerks really bad. Its so annoying! I did a tune-up about 1000 miles ago, new plugs wires, distributer & cap, air filter, along with oil and filter but still its bogs down on take off and jerks while driving at cruising speeds. I don't know where to start since I'm not an expert mechanic. Ill do whatever it takes to keeps this car on the road since it was my Dads. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what might be causing all this jerkiness. Any input or thoughts are appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
First things first. Anyone who owns one of these cars and is getting started needs to buy one of these: Image

I did and it helped me a lot. To get the basic understanding of these engines.

Not meaning to be crass. Just letting you know what has helped me over the years.

To start with:

1:Idle speed is incorrect

2:Bad fuel

3:distributor issue (damage or corrosion)

4:Fuel system or sensor issue

5:Bad plug gap or wires

6:emissions system issue. (maybe clean EGR system)

7:Vacuum leak (intake or anywhere a vacuum line can be found)

Make sure to tell us your mileage. Because some issue come with age and mileage. Also, This should be placed in the MK1 section of the forums. As you own an MK1. Not an MK2

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
what one really needs is a factory service manual. the haynes manual has enough glaring errors to really get your tit in a wringer. :-P

haynes and clymer manuals for most cars use typical procedures to describe service work but the factory service manual has data and procedures that are specific for the model.

examples are an error in the torque data for the rear axle nuts, which in the haynes manual amounts to excessive preload which damages the wheel bearings and ruins the tapered spacer and bad data for the plug wire designations. if you follow the picture of the distributor to run the plug wires the car farts like a race horse.

beware! :blackeye:

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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 10:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:27 pm
Posts: 316
Location: KC, Kansas
I haven't been able to find a service manual. factory service manual that is. The manual mentioned above gave me some basic knowledge of what was going on. Also a lot of tech help can be found on this website which may or may not counter act some of the things suggested in the manual.

A little common sense comes in handy as well. Also some basic mechanical knowledge is a plus. Like not over torquing things to the braking point :-P

Regardless. I found the firing order to be correct and some little tidbits useful out of this manual. Also this day and age all you really have to do it type in the old google and you can find a lot of good information. Not to mention how to videos on the youtube. One day I'll get my hands on a real service manual. Last one I saw for sale was over $100 us dollars. And personally I would much rather spend that kind of cash on parts for the car. :thumb2:

In short it sounds like a vacuum leak. I had a lot of rotted lines in both my old sprints. It's a pain to get them all found. But once fixed makes a world of difference.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 21, 2009 3:07 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sacramento CA
New carburetor $350-420 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,5904

Check your carb model number for reference to get the correct one, rebuilding it is more a pain and sometimes it doesnt work right still, small passages are hard to clean.

Or convert it to propane as you wont need your carb anymore, just your throttle plates from it.

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"If it doesnt fit, use a bigger hammer"
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- 89 Daihatsu Charade CLX 1.0L MPFI 3cyl 5spd (*SOLD*)
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:10 am
Posts: 340
Location: Palm Springs, Calif
There are about 20 MK1 (Chevy Sprint) factory service manuals for sale on Ebay at this time.

This is a reasonably priced 85 manual (not mine):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-1985- ... f5&vxp=mtr

I have one exactly like it,
and includes things like
-how to rebuild your brakes
-how to rebuild your A/C compressor
-how to rebuild your automatic or standard transmission
-how to rebuild your engine.

It has a fairly comprehensive section on emissions and a flow chart to chase down driveability issues like you describe.

I would recommend it before you buy a Haynes or Chilton, but years ago those were the only options available to the home mechanic.

I suggest you bring your vehicle to the meet in December.
Rumor has it that there will be someone who knows your car inside and out.
:!:
If you will attend, make sure to post in the appropriate thread so that they know to bring diagnostic equipment.
That car is fairly complicated.

There was a thread started on this exact same car a few months ago.

Of course, if you can't wait til December, you can always post pictures of the car and what's going on, and go from there.
Did I say pictures?
Oh yeah.
You might need to buy a vacuum gauge/tester before posting much more.
That car has quite a few vacuum lines:
-idle up actuator
-secondary diaphragm in the carburetor
-A/C idle up
-second air valve
etc. etc.

Rebuilt carburetors can be had from members here in the $300-$400 range if the car needs to pass emissions.
Those cars can be real fuel efficient when dialed in.
Alternatively, you can just install a new cat every two years to get it to pass smog.
Kind of a band aid approach, but it can be done.

You ought to do a compression test before starting any engine work.
Compression is related to vacuum and those cars must have decent vacuum at idle.
If you're serious about keeping the car on the road, it isn't a big deal in Southern California.


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