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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 10:50 am 
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Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
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Location: Saskatchewan
great car, great vid. im jealous of your race track

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1996 Metro Build QR25de swap, still undecided where to take it
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2002 1:39 pm
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Location: Linköping
Today, the virginity was lost for real. Now we're out in the traffic just as anyone else. :) (I've could have been there for long time ago, but never mind ;) )

Ahhh, a stop for some saturday pizza.. :p

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:51 pm
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Location: BC Canada
Amazing Build! :shock:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2002 1:39 pm
Posts: 300
Location: Linköping
Once again I had a few laps at the track.

My street tires needs to be changed to something more "useable".
I have to rebuild the oilpan and pickup, cause with hard braking I lose oil pressure.
Rear suspension needs to be adjusted a lot. Not much grip using the throttle in corners.

That's just about it.

Still, I had fun as hell :)

http://youtu.be/xxKqie3fDNg?hd=1


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:27 am 
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Hi...just wondering if an accusump kit could be added insurance along with the pickup mod...
I do like the project...you have done what I like....


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:55 pm 
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Location: Linköping
bigcliff wrote:
Hi...just wondering if an accusump kit could be added insurance along with the pickup mod...
I do like the project...you have done what I like....


Yes, an accusump would probably help a lot. But I really have to rebuild tha pan and pickup, since it is actually not good at all.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:56 pm
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Location: colorado river, arizona USA
I think a drysump is in order! It would fit the car and its mecanical beauty and sophistication.
Thanks runbag for your contributions.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:52 pm 
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Location: Linköping
The summer is over, and I could share some of what has happend, and is happening right now.

I've actually had very little time to use my car, but I can't complain since I'm pretty satisfied with having something that could be used when and wherever I want. I also needed to get some rest from the project for a while.. :)

About 700 km's in trafic and 2 trackdays is the result anyway.

Trough all laps at the track, I can finaly see how the car is working and what I need to do to get the best out of it. The chassie works really good, and the only thing I can complain about is lack of power in low RPM's. I actually thought that I could do well since I have a flat torque curve from 5500 to 8500 rpm, but I didn't realize that I would loose a lot of time in those cases when I needed to shift gears one way to much.

So, now I will start to build a new engine once again. This time I will go for the 1.6 liter combined with the G13B head as I've read just a little about, and I will try to use the best engine tuners in Sweden to end up with a killer.

Unfortunately I actually don't yet know anything about the G16B or other suitable combinations, but I will be keep on reading. If you have serious info regarding this, please let me know.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 11:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 27, 2002 11:47 pm
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Location: San Juan, Argentina
I would just look for a smaller A/R for the hot side of the turbo, in order to lower the RPM threshold. You can also play with the cam timing a bit to improve the torque curve in the lower RPM range.

Would you mind posting the spark timing map ?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 1:02 am 
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Location: Linköping
Caaarlo wrote:
I would just look for a smaller A/R for the hot side of the turbo, in order to lower the RPM threshold. You can also play with the cam timing a bit to improve the torque curve in the lower RPM range.

Would you mind posting the spark timing map ?



The fact is that I use the smallest housing available for this turbo. I will see if I can find the timing map in some way.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:56 pm
Posts: 414
Location: colorado river, arizona USA
Or compound boost.......a m45 and your turbo......they work..you tube compound boost civic...look for weir techs black hatch...that things a monster...with a d series to boot!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 1:04 pm 
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Location: colorado river, arizona USA
Instant full boost at the squeeze of the throttle... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzZ-_xe3 ... ata_player

Hell you pay shipping ill give u my spare m90...


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:02 am
Posts: 326
Location: Barbados
Here is one thing to get you going :mrgreen:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/797218/1995-suzuki-swift/

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:36 am 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 5:32 pm
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Location: Miami & Venezuela
runbag wrote:
So, now I will start to build a new engine once again. This time I will go for the 1.6 liter combined with the G13B head as I've read just a little about, and I will try to use the best engine tuners in Sweden to end up with a killer.

Unfortunately I actually don't yet know anything about the G16B or other suitable combinations, but I will be keep on reading. If you have serious info regarding this, please let me know.


i race a RWD G16B. The crank is junk. Im going to have a 4340 billet crank built, you should do the same. Also the oil pump is junk too. i will be going dry sump. Dont even bother with an accusump for the G16B. For next season we are going with sequential box since later on it will be a turbo set up (same engine trans, but rwd turbo on a MK2 swift) to race at high altitude.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:35 am 
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Location: colorado river, arizona USA
AutoPerformance wrote:
runbag wrote:
So, now I will start to build a new engine once again. This time I will go for the 1.6 liter combined with the G13B head as I've read just a little about, and I will try to use the best engine tuners in Sweden to end up with a killer.

Unfortunately I actually don't yet know anything about the G16B or other suitable combinations, but I will be keep on reading. If you have serious info regarding this, please let me know.


i race a RWD G16B. The crank is junk. Im going to have a 4340 billet crank built, you should do the same. Also the oil pump is junk too. i will be going dry sump. Dont even bother with an accusump for the G16B. For next season we are going with sequential box since later on it will be a turbo set up (same engine trans, but rwd turbo on a MK2 swift) to race at high altitude.

Cheers


Please elaborate on your junk crank experiance..it is as good of a casting as any..and lots of chevy cranks are hollow...i have a real hard time believing youve hurt one naturally aspirated and am yet to see a bent or broken one boosted...my g13 with 8v crank has seen 18 psi from a 90" supercharger and taken over 8k manytimes
With zero issues...and near 10k miles at 12 lbs and above...im calling bullshit..


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 5:32 pm
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Location: Miami & Venezuela
rtsblwn wrote:
AutoPerformance wrote:
runbag wrote:
So, now I will start to build a new engine once again. This time I will go for the 1.6 liter combined with the G13B head as I've read just a little about, and I will try to use the best engine tuners in Sweden to end up with a killer.

Unfortunately I actually don't yet know anything about the G16B or other suitable combinations, but I will be keep on reading. If you have serious info regarding this, please let me know.


i race a RWD G16B. The crank is junk. Im going to have a 4340 billet crank built, you should do the same. Also the oil pump is junk too. i will be going dry sump. Dont even bother with an accusump for the G16B. For next season we are going with sequential box since later on it will be a turbo set up (same engine trans, but rwd turbo on a MK2 swift) to race at high altitude.

Cheers


Please elaborate on your junk crank experiance..it is as good of a casting as any..and lots of chevy cranks are hollow...i have a real hard time believing youve hurt one naturally aspirated and am yet to see a bent or broken one boosted...my g13 with 8v crank has seen 18 psi from a 90" supercharger and taken over 8k manytimes
With zero issues...and near 10k miles at 12 lbs and above...im calling bullshit..


you can call whoever you want. I am not a street boy racer that does cheap builds. I build real racing cars and all of these real racing cars do not use any factory cast part. I build billet and forged everything. Reason i got our of selling suzuki swift parts is becasue not many can afford real racing parts for these cars. I aplaude you for your car and what you say but the G16 cast crank does not have the strength to hold RPM and be reliable. The LEAST i would use is a factory G13B crank but i would add 4 bolt mains with billet caps. The G16 crank is weak. In road racing we have tested and cannot race revving over 7000. Here is the result


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:16 am
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Location: Australia
not to mention they are know for cracks in the block just above the starter motor on the g16b around the water jacket, I have already found this out the hard way...

everything on the g16b is weak, I know everyone likes more displacement but what do you want reliability of the g13b or a lot of headache with the g16b blocks

I think you just need to look at the turbo your using and maybe find a better one that suits


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 6:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:16 am
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Location: Australia
the other thing i forgot to mention the g16b doesn't like to be revved hard, the rods are weak as piss and you will soon see one punch a hole in the block if you do so..


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2002 1:39 pm
Posts: 300
Location: Linköping
Thanks for info.

The plan so far is to get the bottom end more stable with a custom made girdle, custom made forged crank/rods/pistons.

I've tried to find out what kind of internals people uses, but so far I can only see that everyone goes for stock ones. In that case I'm not surprised if it breaks at like 8000, especially if they uses it in some kind of turbo/supercharged version.

So far, the biggest problem is to find a place where I can get the crank machined to a reasonable price. Rods and pistons is of course pretty easy.

But, nothing is written in stone. I could decide to stay with the G13B, and I know that a new engine could be built much better than this. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:16 am
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Location: Australia
if it was for a purpose built drag car you could use the g16b and grout the block which would/should stop the block from splitting

the stock rods are know to bend due to their length, you would have to go a set of custom carrillo's or similar

or maybe look towards the J20A, 2litre vitara engine??


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:13 am 
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runbag wrote:
So far, the biggest problem is to find a place where I can get the crank machined to a reasonable price. Rods and pistons is of course pretty easy.



When you do let me know...I'm looking into a custom crank right now to fit into the G16 block for a rally car build...So far I've emailed Arrow & Crower about a crank but the main problem will be no one will be interested in making a one off custom crank at a reasonably good price

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 3:31 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2002 1:39 pm
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Location: Linköping
Last year 17 psi, this year 24 psi.

Haveing a car that seems to work, without need to do repairs all the time is just wonderful.
Beeing at a track, giving your car shit, do often ends the same way. I've see it all the time.
I'm actually surprised how I can beat my little love, hiding under the bonnet. 8,5K rpm trough all shifting is music in my ears, and now 1500 km's later there is no sign for fatigue.

As I've mentioned, I wanted to build a new 1,6 engine, but that is actually postponed. Last day at track, for the first time, I mounted real track tyres. Earlier at our local track, I had to shift down to 2:nd gear in 3 corners. But now I went through them all in 3:rd gerar without any problem, getting boost just as needed. The car accelerates way much better than a lot of others, and now I can see that I can do progress in driving again.

But, getting better in driving, has showed up a weak point. Now I have oil pressure issues when breaking really hard. The solution is to mount a dry sump pump. I'm really looking forward to this update, and to see what the car can produce in the end.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:54 pm
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Location: Añasco, Puerto Rico
Hello, I would like to know where I could get the rear lights for my '86 Suzuki Forza equal to those showed in the picture... Thanks a lot.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 1:19 pm 
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Rafy -P.R.- wrote:
Hello, I would like to know where I could get the rear lights for my '86 Suzuki Forza equal to those showed in the picture... Thanks a lot.


The tail lights I have shown was bought at ebay, many years ago. Don't know if they are still available though.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2013 12:54 pm
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Location: Añasco, Puerto Rico
Thank you very much, and how could I find parts on ebay for these cars because I look and almost did not get parts for my Suzuki Forza '86, what would be the code for my Forza '86 or what is the trick to find on eBay, if I could give some example ... I am a fan of the Suzuki Swift and Forza and some future I would like to make my Forza '86, 1300 GTi Twin Cam engine ... I love that 8)

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