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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:56 pm
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
I've got my gearbox torn apart again due to a bad input shaft bearing :roll:

Tearing it down is definitely getting easier!

So, my synchros are all good--I got lucky and found a used trans with OEM synchros that show virtually no wear, so I just need to replace the bearings.

Is there a go-to rebuild kit or bearing source? I notice the ebay kits have Nachi bearings, which are at least Japanese. Is this a reasonable source or is there a brand of available bearings that anybody has a particular trust in or preference for?

I suppose I could just go look at them, but if anybody happens to have a list of the bearing part numbers, it would be handy (if not, I'll go through the ones I've got in my box and post them).

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 3:03 pm 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
In my experience most all of the kits are the same, regardless of brand name on the box. Guessing there is only one or two suppliers for them and they just sell to everyone to distribute. You should be safe, I have run into lots of inferior parts for other items such as gaskets and suspension but never had and issue with gearbox parts.
Grab a kit and away you go again!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:14 pm 
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actually, people have noticed a difference in the size of the id notch on the first gear syncro in the rebuild kits. some of the most anal retentive transmission rebuilders will use oem spg first gear syncros to replace the one included in the kits. :wink:

fainya media blasts the ids of the forcing cones with garnet for a smoother shift. 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2017 9:31 pm 
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Suzuki has changed to only having one keyslot width for both 1st and 2nd gears and so do all the rebuild kits, nothing to worry about these days.

Blasting your cones is a great way to wear out your syncro rings prematurely and wouldn't recommend it unless your hubs are extremely worn and still have good engagement teeth or if you can't source a replacement hub anywhere, last resort personally.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 2:48 am 
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Who would have thought anyone with one of the gearboxes would say this, but I don't have to touch my synchros--they are beautiful and OEM, not the least because I almost always double clutch, so they don't see much use :D

It's also been less than 20,000 miles since I went through the gearbox. I had a couple of fully assembled input shafts and went with the prettiest one without thinking about mileage on the bearings when last I buttoned it up.

Whoops.

I also haven't found a solution for getting the shim preload right, other than more patience than I've got. All the places that still sell the shims don't sell all of them and, further, only sell them in packs of 10, so I'll end up spending $50 or more, with shipping, to likely get just the sizes I don't need--in packs of 10.

Why couldn't they just make really thin ones so you could get a bunch and always get it right? :evil:

Two interesting things I noticed when I tore down the box again:

Perhaps a symptom of incorrect preload again, as the output shaft seemed to have "settled" such that the shims I put in were no longer correct, I found that the screws holding the plate in were barely hanging in there. Given that the heads are all buggered up anyway, I plan to use socket-head screws and red loctite so I don't have to worry about them working themselves loose. I'll post up s picture and share my source when the new screws show up, if they fit.

I also noticed that the large bearing on the input shaft looks fine, but seems to have lost it's press fit onto the shaft and can slide off without effort. I don't yet have a replacement to check whether the bearing is too big or the shaft too small. Does it matter? I. E. it's not going anywhere even if it doesn't need to be pressed on the shaft (I don't think) should I worry about this?

Hoping this will be the last time I have to take the box apart for a while, knowing this is true only if one's definition of "a while" is pretty loose :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 2:54 am 
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Oh yes, and here are almost all the bearing numbers:

6204 input shaft small
6206 input shaft large (B20-141UR)
6007 small diff bearing
6207 big difff bearing

small tapered roller 32004j

I'm not changing the big tapered roller, because I did that last time so it's only got 20k or less on it!

There's a local place that sells bearings, quoted me $146 for all the above. I really like to support local business, but I found I could all the same bearings, from the same manufacturers, with the seals as well, for $55 shipped!

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No one expects the Spanish Inquisition!

Spanish Inquisition Racing chip burning service--build yourself a custom chip!
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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