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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:42 am 
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Front wheel bearings are pretty simple to install; once you have done them, that is.
For those who have never done them, here is a short photo session to show what is involved:

Image

Although an orange 'shop press' is visible in the photo above, you will not be using a press to change these bearings. This is a "poor man's do-it-yourself"...


One way to do it involves removing the tires, etc until you get to this:

Image

One of the tricks to get to that point is to remember the raised portion in the center (centre) of the hub which is not removable. You will need to punch out the old bearings using this technique:

Image

You can put the first bearing in like this:

Image

The final seating can be done something like this:

Image
but be careful not to damage the plastic seal cover, and tap down the inner and outer race evenly until the bearing seats against the inner knuckle raised portion.
And that lets you get the hub ready:
Image
You'll need to install the rotor at some point. This might be a good time.
If you can pound the hub assembly through the first bearing like this:
Image
(notice the spacer at the 5 o'clock position in the photo)
You can pop in the second bearing with no sweat. (Don't forget the spacer.):
Image
Once you get the second bearing in, the seal is a piece of cake. Here the seal is under the bearing:
Image

And then, once that is done, you should end up with something like this:
Image



That's really about it; anyone with an interest in saving money can do it themselves. No need for a shop; no need for a mechanic.

I have placed a few more photos, with a few more instructions at:

gallery/album.php?id=74&sort_method=image_time&sort_order=DESC&start=20
and here:
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r211 ... 20Bearing/

Certainly hope this helps those who are willing to do front wheel bearing replacement, but just needed a little push.

The changing of wheel bearings on a front wheel drive vehicle may cost you at least $200 labor per side, as the mechanic must remove the front wheels, axles, sway bar, brake caliper, and employ a shop press, air tools, clean up the grease and grime from a traditionally dirty area of your vehicle, and may find other parts which need replacing. This is a very important part of your car. Although the repairs may cost $500 to have done professionally, you should take comfort knowing that once this is done right, you probably won't have to do it again. A big plus is the safety factor you bring to the open road.
If you are driving with 'out of balance' tires, this may damage your wheel bearings and eventually the hubs.
Repairing wheel bearings is something you should be familiar with if you wish to have a safe ride for your family and wish to save a considerable sum of money.





(Edited 4/4/08 to update last hyperlink)

Edited 11/16/2011 to include another hyperlink.


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Wed Nov 16, 2011 11:48 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:49 pm 
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This is the very first thing I have to do to my car. From the pictures, theres 2 bearings now? From the parts stores, they lead me to believe there was just one. Other then that, it looks real easy! Thanks for the help!

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 Post subject: Rotor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:28 am 
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Yes, the Chevrolet Sprint NA vehicles have 2 bearings per wheel. For the sake of completeness, perhaps we should mention rotor replacement.

While you have the hub out of the car,

Image

Get a new rotor:

Image

And you can easily attach it:
Image
Then you can use a 1 1/4 inch socket to tap it back together:
Image

Leaving you with this final assembly.
Image
Make sure it spins quietly.

Additional cautions and instructions can be found in my album by viewing each picture directly.

The actual part numbers for the seal and bearings can be found in this site. (I used 107 DD bearings, and a 224462 seal)
Your general procedure will be the same, even if you have a single 2 row bearing, however it will help if you use a shop press.

(edited 11/16/2011 linking the pictures off site as done in the thread above for two different server migrations)


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:50 am 
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that is a very good right up. :thumb2:

but, lsi cars, including verts, and the 95 and up cars use a bigger single bearing and slide off rotors. :)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:16 am 
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OK haha, now you have me confused. I need to order the one bearing, or a 2 bearings and 2 seals? I have 2 new rotors, that was part of the deal with the car.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:23 pm 
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If you have a 1987 Chevrolet Sprint (as in your profile) whether it is a 4 door or 2 door, the above information should suit you to a T.
The pictures are from a 4 door hatchback with no turbo, but your turbo either uses the same bearings or a large double bearing. Thats 4 bearings per axle, (2 per wheel) for the carburetor version and 2 bearings per axle (1 per wheel for the MK1 turbo) You will only need 2 seals; one for each side (inner).
And roughly $25 US each these days. Let us know if you can find them cheaper.

The comment was made about convertibles ('verts) and post '95 cars to make sure you didn't start the project if you were working on another type vehicle.

Don't get confused, most of us have done bearing and/or rotor replacement, and know the satisfaction of a job well done, especially after we do it, and then take the car on a 6,000 mile trip with no problems. This post is just to take some of the fright out of it for you guys who are about to do it for the first time with what little info you can get in the books.

Continue to ask questions on this site; it is how I learned many helpful hints.

Congratulations on scoring the rotors.


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:00 am 
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Phil now I'm confused I was told the diffrent between the turbo sprint (1987-88) and the 2dr N/A sprint is the turbo has roller bearing and the N/A ball bearing ???

Here's a LINK to My "HOW TO REAR BEARING 1987 SPRINT TURBO"
.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=38791
.
.

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Last edited by jaguar,vettes&sprints on Thu Sep 30, 2010 11:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:43 am 
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jaguar,vettes&sprints is certainly awake.

The NAPA catalog (online) shows that the inner bearing for the Turbo is different. They show a double rowed ball bearing (Part number BRGFW22 ) for over $62 U.S. It also appears to be wider than the outer bearing.

The Turbo I just bought came with a set of 107DD's in a separate box. It looks like they are single rowed ball bearings.

If I need to change the bearings in the hub of the Turbo, I will let you know. For sure, a hundred guys here already have experience with that particular application.

Thanks for setting me straight.

For sure, the technique above will work with the non-Turbo, using the 107 bearings. It should be similar, for the Turbo. When you get the old bearings out, you will know which to buy.

Did you see my 32 Ford next to the 'me wall'?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 5:10 am 
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How many different styles of front wheel bearings are there? The MK2/3 SOHC 1.3L Swifts have bearings similar to a bicycle. The inner and outer races are pressed in and the balls are carried in a plastic thing. Easy to disassemble and clean. :thumbsup:

I'll try to remember to get a pic.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 11:26 am 
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Yes saw it is it a "32" p/u ?? tbirdscott would go nuts for that

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
G-Whiz wrote:
I don't let just anyone work on my cars. Like the saying goes, "You don't let another man mess with your wife, so why would you let him mess with your car".


Last edited by jaguar,vettes&sprints on Sat May 10, 2008 5:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:35 pm 
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Heres what I'm looking at to replace: http://napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMa ... ront+Wheel

thats napa

heres autozone:
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker/?U ... PageSync=2

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 8:18 pm 
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It looks like the book calls for a 36 by 68 by 33 MM bearing (1.4173 by 2.6772 by 1.2992 inch)for the front of the '87 Turbo. The metric measurement is easier to type.
It is the #510001 you mentioned. That bearing is twice as wide as the 107DD's that non-Turbo's have. Thus, you will need twice the umph to push it out, whether with a press, or with a mighty hammer and spacer.

Regardless of the brand bearing you use, notice the second picture at the top of the page; it is found in the non-turbo hub carrier and a Turbo hub may or may not have it (eg. conversion). And if you do not know it is there, it may cause you lots of problems. You cannot just place the assembly in a press, and push them all the way through. Those bearings have to be installed from each side. More importantly, the bearings have to come out each side. The spacer (shown in picture #6 above) hides the narrower diameter sleeve in the center of the second photo, prior to disassembly.
Am curious to know how your project will turn out.

It looks like Christmas has come early to jaguar,vettes&sprints
with a nice white jaguar (double tanks?),a white 69 Corvette Convertible, a Honda car, and a motorcycle, as well as a spare engine.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:11 pm 
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any advice in getting the outside bearing out? I'm having zero luck with inside and outside (220k miles... dunno when they were changed...)

I have the hub out, have the bearings, have the seal, have a final tomorrow at 11:30... heh.

I've tried heat and WD-40, no dice.

The spacer ring seems to move freely right now, i don't think that's good...


EDIT: I have access to a 20 ton press if needed.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:00 pm 
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Not sure if I covered it completely, so today added a few photos to hopefully clear up any questions.

Once you get the hub assembly out

Image

you should see the spacer. It needs to be moved. If it moves freely, fine. If not:

Image

You can use a "C" clamp to move it far enough off center to get a rod on the inside race of the lower bearing. In your case, you would want to flip the assembly over to get the outside bearing. This shows the process for the inside bearing. In many cases, it is the inside bearing which wears out.

Now we see the spacer out of the way, and the clamp removed:

Image

This should allow you to either press the lower bearing out, or for those either in a hurry, or not rich enough to own their own press, you can tap out the lower bearing.

Note the placement of the metal rod; it is below the spacer, and on the inner part of the bearing. Once you get good at this, you can pop em out without even damaging the bearings.

Image

Sorry for the long post; but if this helps just one of you save a few bucks, then I guess it's worth it. If you look at my "gallery" you will see a few other photos which may or may not help.

Feel free to let us know your results... (edited 4/4/08 to restore photo links)

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Last edited by Phil N Ed on Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:55 am 
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That's what I needed!

Thanks so much and I'll let everyone know how it goes...[/wiki]

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:40 pm 
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bearings are out/in. I took it into work and put them in with the press, much eaiser then the pounding method. That hub is hard to get on without the press...

I'll be installing it tonight and post how it rides :)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:27 pm 
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since were talkign about wheel bearings are the rear wheel bearings on a 92 gti the same as the front? like not the same part number but the same way to remove and install. cause i have done the front before and need to do the rear.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:48 pm 
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WOOT!

that first drive was great!... almost forgot how slow the little guy is.


A press helps a whole bunch when putting the hub in. I had it in the freezer for 5 hours and it still wouldn't go over the bearing, no matter how hard i hit it. Put it in the press on my lunch break and 3 minutes later it was set!


Thank you so much :)

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 12:41 pm 
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SSGTi12345 wrote:
since were talkign about wheel bearings are the rear wheel bearings on a 92 gti the same as the front? like not the same part number but the same way to remove and install. cause i have done the front before and need to do the rear.

You must have blanked it from your memory when you read it the first time, so here it is again: :wink:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=211337#211337

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 16, 2006 6:20 pm 
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lol thanks lihtan i always forget stuff i read.. sorry


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 1:31 am 
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Looking over this post, I should have posted it in the MK1 section.
But for those MK1's with a turbo, this is what your wheel bearing (front) should look like:

Image

There is one per side.

Also there has been a description of how the bearing is three pieces, with two sides, so here is a picture of what that would look like:

Image


Hope this helps clear up some formerly muddy water...

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:25 am 
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My 89' LSi had the exact same brakes as shown in the pics, do does my 93 base model.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:33 pm 
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So for an 89 Sprint Turbo, there are a total of 8 wheel bearings? 2 per wheel (in and out)? That is like $300 worth of bearings!!! Any recommendations on where I should get them from or what the part numbers are for a 89 Turbo?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:45 pm 
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jba205 wrote:
So for an 89 Sprint Turbo, there are a total of 8 wheel bearings? 2 per wheel (in and out)? That is like $300 worth of bearings!!! Any recommendations on where I should get them from or what the part numbers are for a 89 Turbo?


I think you can use one 510001 bearing per side. $41.79 per side on line.
You can find them cheaper.
The AC Delco FW 185 also is the same bearing.

Go to your local parts house with these numbers; they can do an interchange. You are looking at less than $100 for 2 bearings to do left and right hubs, plus the labor to have them pressed in by the machine shop. If you jack up the car, and find which of the 2 bearings is noisy, then you only will spend $50 plus labor to do one side.

There are some threads which give better part nos and places to get them.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:12 am 
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http://www.g13b.com/

Has anyone ordered parts from this site? If so, are they compatible with turbo sprints?

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