TeamSwift

Is there a secrec to installing a mk1 dust. I can get it till there is a half inch left then it stops.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Make sure there is a little lube on the o-ring too but it sounds like your just not lined up right.

Scott

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Its not lag, its suspense...
1987 mk1 T3

So if the cam and crnk pulleys have the timing marks lined up is there a way the dizzy can be out 180. I can feel the ears grabbing a bit but not much.

Yep.
Just plug n play.
180 off don't matter a bit.
You'll see.

Next guy with that problem, though - YOU'D better chime in.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

So I got the distributer in with help from my friend ball peen. But the car won't start. I rebuilt the motor and tranny put in a new clutch. Got it all together and all I can get is back fire out the intake so I spun the timing 180 and still the same. Any ideas.

Ok so you wernt paying attention I posted in mk1/2 turbo cars which means I can't adjust the carb and I said I rebuilt the motor so the comoresson is good. But yes there is a fuel smell. And I did check the spark it is good. It turns over good but no starting.

If your going to be a rude little prick nobody is going to help you.

You probably screwed up your distributor hammering it in, and if thats the way you work I hope you didnt rebuild the engine yourself...


Scott

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Its not lag, its suspense...
1987 mk1 T3

nobody has helped yet...........

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it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang

Take the dizzy out again and make shure the little tangs that stick into the end cam are straight sometime when you beat on your dizzy with a hammer the tend to get bent
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Nobody has helped yet?
Hmmm.
Since I'm one of several 'nobodies' above, let me draw you a picture:

Read page 6A1-7
Item 3 under 'Valve Lash' should give you the procedure for checking your rotor to see if you have it in right.
Refer to picture 6A1-18 'Rotor Position'

If you are having further problems with the MK1 Turbo Sprint, refer to the supplement uploaded by
'nobody tbirdscott'
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=174227#p174227

And if you want to be included in the 'nobodies' above, put the crank up to TDC, pull the distributor cap and shoot up a picture of what you've got...unless 'somebody' in the southwestern desert wants to oblige first.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

So I found some wires without harnesses. There is a white/blue wire and red/white just below the coil. Then a black/white and blue wires in a round harness above the trans coming from the main harness. The only internet I have is my blackberry so I can't open the supplumental page. The dizzy tangs were not bent I got the timing marks right and the dizzy is in right. I can not find the wire for the o2 sensor so if you know where that comes from and color that would be good if I need it.

NO Internet cafe's in Sasquatchekan?

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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.

we have public libraries that offer free internet. printing from the computers costs 5 cents a page.

heck, i grew up with dials on party line phones and lp albums mono reprocessed for stereo and i can't even imagine not having a computer and internet access in the current world.

people in mud huts have internet access in our day and age.

i tried to go to the link and grab the directed pages but that file is so big (20mb pdf) it was taking a while just to display let alone download. there's no way a phone would display that pdf. it'd choke a smokin' 56k connected box!

doesn't the crank make 2 revolutions for every single revolution of the cam? make sure you have the static timing on tdc cylinder #1 and the cam timing mark at the top. then make sure that the rotor is pointed towards the #1 plug wire tower on the cap. honestly, if the distributor drive tabs are lined up correctly with the slots on the cam, a gentle push should seat the distributor. if you have to hammer it into position, something is most definitely wrong.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 2000 Chevy Metro 1.3L MPFI automatic. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

My YouTube Channel

My Photo Gallery

SAAB Sonett II

if it cranks, u need fuel and spark

do you have spark?

unplug the coil wire and ground it to something see if sparks fly.

BLACK/white could also be power for the coil.

and CHECK GROUNDS! make sure the are all good

fuel?

WHITE/blue are either fuel pump or power input to the ECM.
RE/white? u sure it isn't PINK/white? PINK/white and pink is also fuel pump aswell. the relay should be on the firewall but Im not 100% cause my mk1 turbo is in a mk2 body.

Black/white & solid blue would be coolant temp switch I believe. in the back of the head by the IM there is 2, 2 pin plugs (coolant temp switch and coolant temp sensor)

Oh and make sure not to beat the dizzy or anything else with a hammer... Parts for these cars are becoming scarce. if u think your frustrated now, wait till u have to find replacement parts because you beat the first one until it was a paper weight.

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2000 Integra GSR... Vtec is like getting your d!ck sucked by a lightning bolt
1995 Metro most reliable rust bucket in Canada
1993 MK1 turbo swap needs bottom end

Whatever he said, that's the bottom line.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

oh i missed some of this when i was skipping through..... explain the back fire from the IM a little more im curious

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2000 Integra GSR... Vtec is like getting your d!ck sucked by a lightning bolt
1995 Metro most reliable rust bucket in Canada
1993 MK1 turbo swap needs bottom end

So I have lots of spark. I can smell fuel out the tail pipe. And when I turn it over it pops in the intake like small backfires. I have turned the crank timing 180 and there was no difference. I have tried everything that was mentioned with no prevail.

i had this problem turned out somebody took the dist apart and when they put it back together they put the top shaft on 180 out

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it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang

hmmmmmmm do u have open air between the VAF and the TB? does the engine sputter then die? run for a second then stall?

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2000 Integra GSR... Vtec is like getting your d!ck sucked by a lightning bolt
1995 Metro most reliable rust bucket in Canada
1993 MK1 turbo swap needs bottom end

So the car dosnt fire at all. Just wondering what Side of the engine the fuel injector harness comes in from tranny side or the water pump side.

Do you have the resorses to do an compression test.?
Do you have a camera .?
can you try a squirt of starter fluid and see if it will spudder when you try to start the car.?
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I do not have open air it is all clamped well. Even with starting fluid it won't even try to start. So correct me when I'm wrong but I have 3 grounds on the intake and the big strap on the front mount on the pass side wheel well I think that is all of them.

And the big ground from the battery to the transmission case

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1987 Chevrolet Sprint Turbo under construction

I have moved the battery to the hatch so I didn't have that one but I have put in a big ground from the trans to the frame