TeamSwift

Ok, this has now become just fcuking frustrating.....put back everything together with new headgasket. After about 20mins of intermittent starting for around 20-30secs at a time, the engine still won't start. The culprit...compression is zero in cylinders 1, 2 and 3, but I'm getting 150 psi in #4.

I've double checked the timing and all three marks line up perfect at TDC on #1. The only thing I can think of again is the 210/340 cams holding the valves open, but even that does not make much sense.

Anyone care to offer an explanation/help please? Thanks.

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thank and Thanks again for your help the disc was great I learned alot Lota of pictures...I like pictures..!

The Big block heads are for what they are a little complex now I understand $1500-$2000 for a head job is not unresonable lots and lots of labor involved .

I cleaned it with industral floor striper it was the only thing that would cut the smeggle
Parts cleaner didn't Bio Fuel, didn't I made up a piece of copper tube withholes put air to it and bubbled it in a 6 gal bucket for 10 hrs

I put a straight edge and it looked good so i might dodge a bullet will see.....

suprf1y set me up with a new set of head bolt for a great price...hope it wasn't a close out deal.?.
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I disassembled the Lifter's today it was a bitch you have to slam them hard for the inter piston comes out
and let them soak all day the check valve parts are so small once there clean and lubed there even harder to put the pieces back loaded
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the check ball springs were so tiny I could hardly work them
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a set of (16) lifter is around $150.00
it took me about 4 hrs to clean In hine sight should have just gone new but then i would have missed the wow factor
the little parts ..if they get gunked up you will ruin you motor .
that just scream Keep your oil changed and clean
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Ok update.

After putting back on my stock cams and cranking....still no compression. A friend finally came over yesterday with his compressor and we put some air down each of the spark plug holes after rotating the crank so that each respective cam was off/valves closed, and guess what?

Air was escaping from both the exhaust as well as the intake.....looks like I got screwed with the head work. Now I have to remove the head and send it to another specialist to correctly seat the valves.

Which means of course, buying another set of valve seals....maybe I'll pick up a set of bronze valve guides (exhaust) from Mike while I'm at it.

The valves have to leak like crazy for 0 compression.
One reason maybe the fact that you may have pumped the lifter to high and your valves are a little bit open all the time.
The the liters out and get the middle part out...now with a small philips screwdriver push the little ball ...do this while holding the part in oil.After you have compressed it all the way down..let it go and it will create a vacuum inside after this you should place the bucket part of the lifers in oil with the skirt up so that it is immersed in oil...place the middle part in and there you go...now your lifters will be free of air and at the correct height.They will tick a little at startup but once the engine is warm they will pump up nicely.

The lifters were actually quite dead (no pressure) when they were put into the engine, so I don't think they are holding the valves open any.

@MF89, I too am surprised that they were leaking so much given that there was hardly any leaking from the fluid test. btw, we tested with 100psi pressure as it was a small compressor used.

just use a compression gage take the cam's out remove all the spark plugs and turn it over with the starter try every hole

Aah...wisdom of the ages! Thanks mate!

just use a compression gage take the cam's out remove all the spark plugs and turn it over with the starter try every hole

Got this ^^^ done....results as follows:

Cyl. 1 = 30psi

Cyl. 2 = 60psi

Cyl. 3 = 60psi

Cyl. 4 = 0psi

Definitely a valve seating issue it seems...so the head is coming off and going to a suzuki specialist to sort.

before you pull the head.....
take the lifters out and take a wooden dowl like a cut off broom handle stick it on each valve stem and hit each a couple times using a hammer on the dowl while ontop of each valve stem
might give each valve stem a shot of oil
then try another compression test see if those numbers don't come up

Colin, I used kerosene for my test and someone told me I should have used gasoline cuz kerosene may have been too thick.

What would this ^^^ prove jv&s? The valve seals are new. Just asking

Colin, I used kerosene for my test and someone told me I should have used gasoline cuz kerosene may have been too thick.

the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.

I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.

I don't let just anyone work on my cars. Like the saying goes, "You don't let another man mess with your wife, so why would you let him mess with your car".