TeamSwift

Here's the question does anyone have a listing of engines/trans by serial number or casting number?

I recently looked at a replacement engine and trans set for my wifes 90 metro 3 door. The gentleman I talked to bought the set online years ago, lost intreset in project, crushed car. He has lost paper work that came with engine but claims it has about 40,000 miles on it. He claims he bought the engine from a company called Sun Engines. I ran compression test, dry 185-180-145. oiled cylinders compression jumped 240-260-185. possible valve on #3. This engine has the taller ribbed valve cover and a NON-vacuum advance dizzy and egr intake manifold, which are no problem to change. just wondering what year it would be out of.

He has $500 invested in package, which isn't too bad.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

What are the serial numbers on the engine and transmission?

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

I forgot to get them since a guy showed up that didn't get the message that my brother and i were going to be there and was really mad so we had to hurry. He's the kind that might shoot if answers are acceptable. but will get them later. I think i will get the enggine trans set because it a good deal for this area. trannys are running $300. Engine cores about $250-$375. this one is ready to drop in and hook up, starter, alternator, everything. Just add a alt belt and change dist.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

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.1994 4DR Metro
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1992 Geo vert
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tall finned valve cover non vacume adj Dist
are the MK3 1992-94 engines
some would say they were the better of the later motors
before you buy .. pull the pan look in it for bits
if the motor hasn't ran in awhile some time the lifter will leak down
causing it to run rough for a few miles
You just might get luck plug it in and go
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.......jv&s
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Thanks for the pics. That's what the valve cover on the engine I'm looking at looks like.
I have experienced the leaked lifter senerio, bought a junk yard motor for my 90 vert and one cylinder had very low compression. Made lot of racket when i got it started(first turn of key) but let idle for five minutes then took around block was quiet when got back. Rechecked compression and was signifantly higher. That car needs motor to but primary before toy.

_________________
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

Havent bought "new" engine and tranny set but i would like to id the one i put in my vert last spring. My son and I pulled it out of a 90 wagon in a local junk yard but it came with the tall finned valve cover and non vacuum advance dist. Serial number is G10P120287. I'm assuming its a new engine but not sure. My tranny serial number is L212432. Not sure if it's orininal tranny or not, this little vert showed many signs of molestation. I do thank every one for their time and effort.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

The engine: G10 is the type of engine, and you can look that up on Wikipedia.
The P probably corresponds to the year of manufacture.
Likewise, the transmission uses the letter L to denote year of manufacture.
The letters run like this:
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987

I would guess that you have the letter K or L as the next to last letter in your VIN (they skipped 'I'), depending on the actual date of manufacture, not the 'year model'.
This would correspond to the 10th digit/letter of the VIN.
If either your engine or transmission had that letter, pretty good chance they were originals.
If the engine had a P in it, I'd be thinking a block built in '93.
If the transmission had an L in it, I'd be thinking original, or at least a similar year replacement/rebuild.

You can find this information on Teamswift,
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11563&start=25
a Chilton, Haynes, or Factory Service Manual (FSM). The Haynes is a little spotty and just says where you can find the number and that it lets you know the engine displacement and year of manufacture. It does not decode the letters for you.
We have a thread explaining how to find exactly what car you have using the VIN in the "Getting Started" Section.
If you get in trouble, the Moderators usually are a big help.

Feel free to thank us by posting a few pictures of this convertible.
There are many devoted convertible owners here who would love to see it.

Welcome aboard.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Thanks Phil n Ed. I didnt see that in the "getting started" section. Tried the search but everything but what i needed. Just double checked wife's car, which is an all original 90 3 door, both engine and trans have "L". So like you stated tranny in vert could be original, or at least correct. Even though it burns a quart of oil every 70 miles its still snappy and fun to drive.

I have posted pics of my vert. check this thread viewtopic.php?f=36&t=51043. I made a new top from scratch then got hailed out two weeks after i got done. But I'll try to get some better ones up.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

Yes, I've seen your top thread, and feel your 'hail' pain.

If you read that ID thread, you can input your VIN and your wife's VIN and get more information about your cars.
Someone has an OEM top which needs a rear window; you might consider making them an offer or explaining your budget. This is a forum for the 'money-tight', so don't feel like the lone stranger.

$500 for a 1.0L engine and transmission, or a bit less, considering he'll probably take a loss to get it out of there, isn't really a good deal, especially in view of the poor compression results, and your geographic region.
The compression tells me the engine IS ON THE WAY OUT.
You'll have to rebuild it before you put it in anything.

You could probably find a great engine/trans in a junkyard for half that.
Maybe because you are young, he's taking advantage of you.
Never believe ANYONE when they say an engine has 30K, 40K, 50K on it.
That's a common phrase people use which can never be verified to cinch a deal.
Hopefully you'll realize that.
He could always say, "I THOUGHT it had 40K on it; maybe I was wrong."
Geeze.
Don't ever go back to that guy, and when he calls, tell him your wife won't let you buy it...yet.
You might think about what you could do with $500 in parts.

$500 for this

(DOHC with Turbo Tranny)
might be a good deal if it was in good running shape, but that guy isn't doing you any favors.


$500 for this

(DOHC engine COMPLETE -alternator/intakes/water pump/etc.etc. in PERFECT running shape and GT Tranny in tits condition)
from an Los Angeles area junkyard is the going rate...and our California prices are about double yours.
So don't think this is the ONLY deal in town.
A 3 cylinder should cost you a lot less.
Maybe the guy is using you to pay for his retirement.

If you are clean, hard-working, and have good attention to detail, you could easily rebuild the wife's 1.0L engine for less, using the parts recommended on GeoMetroForum.
That should include some fancy-schmansy head work by one of our Moderators.
(No, I don't get a kickback for referrals...)
Yes, it does require the 4 letter word (work) but for the greatest satisfaction, that would be the way to go.
Otherwise, you are just spending too much money on a boat anchor.
Take apart the wife's engine, replace it with new parts and you know EXACTLY how many miles are on the fresh rebuild.
Don't be scammed by someone who tells you 'Joe Blow' built this engine way back when.
You don't know how it was driven, when the oil was changed, etc.
Rebuild the engine yourself and use that Suprf1y head package.

You might not like the results, though.

The wife would kick your butt up and down the block in her car.

Kind of embarrassing; you do all the work and she gets all the glory.
Anyway, if both the cars are running, maybe you don't NEED the extra power plant...if money's tight.

The above advice is what I have learned from being a member here.
By closely following the various Do-It-Yourself threads, and NOT getting fancy with MY WAY, we have gradually gotten to the point where money is tight, but not too tight to mention.
Translation: our debt is decreasing.

You would do wise to enlist the help of members here which are competent and local to you.
Do not expect anything for free.
If you get some help, plan on paybacks, which reminds me: you will be posting updated pictures when?

Well, it's time to work on some alternators, so you think about what I wrote.
You haven't found the 'deal of a lifetime'.

Just stick with what you've got and fix it up.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Phil n Ed

You make many valid points and I do agree that I haven't found the deal of a lifetime but its the best deal I've found yet. I've searched several local junk yard and nobody has an engine in stock but they can have them shipped in for around the $500 - $700 with a 30 - 90 day warrenty range if they can locate a good one. So I'll start at the beginning to show what I have to work with. I do apoligize for photo quality, my phone is the best digital camera i have.

About two years ago I found This litttle guy parked along the fence line at the local junkyard.



Went in talked to owner , made deal and bought for scrap weight value, $400, no title. I wanted it for parts only. Ruth, my wife went with to get it and fell in love. Saga begins.

Sportie as its called had burnt valve. I changed head and tracked down last owner and got a new title.

Later that year, November to exact, while returning home from hunting trip (dont ask) engine stumbles, bucks, recovers and continues to run. When I slow down in town there is a death rattle. Got home unloaded and waited for better weather. Got laid off and had to find new job making less money.

Later jacked it up, dropped pan and found this



So I proceded to tear down and found even more "joy" and odvious signs of bad work. One tranny-engine bolt missing and another was too small so they put a nut on the other side and a third that was the wrong tread and damaged the hole and a missing locating bushing. Looked like some one crossed/gauled the thread for one of the motor mount bosses and broke it.


With engine out and laying on table I can now see the full carnage. Spun #3 rod bearing.





As you can see the crank is pretty bad shape and #3 rod is toast. If saveable I'm looking at $50 -$135 to have it repaired or $200 for remaned crank with bearings. Rods will cost $9 - $12 each to have reconditioned or $35 each new. A local shop wants $10 a hole to bore and hone. I have found a Master Engine kit here for $325
http://www.importperformanceparts.net/i ... -geo1.html

Then I found this little snake in the grass.


Is it a crack or a casting mark?

Since the tranny was not bolted to engine correctly the mating surface is not in the best of shape.


I had to thow in a junk yard engine to get the car running to keep the city off my back for having a non-op car.

I do have an extensive background in auto mechanics. 37 years to be exact. I learned a long time ago not to trust anyone about the condition of an engine unless they can show proof. This guy can't. I dont intend to just Plug-n-Play this other engine. The last thing i want is to have my wife stranded some where.

I understand that a finished product is only as good as the workmanship and components. I do need to fix wife's car as it has a burnt valve, low compression and burns oil. My 86 S-10 Blazer has 220k miles all original and the tranny is gettting weak.

I will be starting new job in couple weeks so my income will improve but it comes with a 80 mile round trip comute. Down time will not be an option so having another power plant ready to go for a weekend swap is the route i need to take.

I do appreciate all your imput and have not taken any thing as criticizim and i hope you don't either. I have spent a lot of time weighing my options and this seems to be the best route at the current time.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

aqqus

Thanks for the great post.
No offense taken; you explained your position and your logic is impeccable.
Good luck with the new job; an 80 mile commute is no picnic, so yes...you'll need to make sure your daily driver is on the mark.

Looking back through our finances, I seem to recall being over $25K in credit card debt when this
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=39927
happened.
You may even find a picture of my Wife in there, pitching in and making sure that the quality of my repairs were up to her standards. Like yours, mine started driving that car in 2008 and it still doesn't drip a drop of oil. It has never left her stranded and I agree: making sure the Wife's car is 'spot on' is the ONLY option in town.
As a result of my Wife using the convertible in that thread, we are less than $8K in credit card debt, and the balances continue to fall.
Now, she is driving this:
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=50571
thanks to a VERY kind Teamswift member. (Swifterthanu)
Like you, I've decided to rebuild a core

as it is tough to pry her hands from the steering wheel of her hatchback.

If you take your time, do quality work and do not take short cuts, you will gradually build up a significant set of wheels.
Sorry to hear about your City; those enforcers sound like they have too much time on their hands.
Out here, if it runs and you can move it, you are good to go.
So I don't pull them apart and leave them looking weird.
I'm sure you do the same, but maybe you live just a few feet from the next guy.
When you finally do get the engine done, use 5W-30 full synthetic; the previous guy obviously didn't.

Since $500 for a rebuildable core is the best deal you can find, I'll shoot you a PM with more options.

As Horatio would say on Miami CSI:

"Keep us posted!"

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

I will keep you posted as I can. My wife's car is a 90 geo metro with 185k on odomoter. She is second owner and it had 42,000 on it. I replaced the head with a rebuilt from autozone at 125,000 miles after learning she had been driving it for about two weeks with a vacuum line off, burnt a valve. Now at 187,000 miles it has a burnt valve again and just learned from a friend whowas going to grind the valves on my spare head that all valves are bent.

This past fall i changed the tranny oil in her car and three chunks of metal were stuck to the drain plug. Might explain the first and second gear shifting issues.

Here is a pic of her little car

_________________
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

You have a PM.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!