TeamSwift

Curious what the MAX weight of vehicle plus cargo is.
Tried searching all over, but with no luck.
Thanx.

Bumpitty.....

Should be on a decal in the driver door jamb.

Dayamb.... I guess I'm drivin the last sedan out there.... Lol
Might have to stalk the local mall for a victim......
Lol

You're not the last one, I've got a 4wd one can't remember the weight, I'll have a look at my papers later today, the difference shouldn't be much.

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I ride a Honda, but I drive a Suzuki.

99 Honda CB600F Hornet
90 Suzuki Swift 1.6 GLX 4WD

Mine's 910kg, max allowed 1350kg, keep in mind that mine's a 1990 and a 4wd.

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I ride a Honda, but I drive a Suzuki.

99 Honda CB600F Hornet
90 Suzuki Swift 1.6 GLX 4WD

Awsum, Thanx. Didn't notice your reply till today :-S

I'm planning on putting '96 coupe knuckles out on my '91 hatch.
Hatch max allowable = 688kg.
Coupe max allowable = 1350kg.

I pull a trailer pretty regular in the summer and I wanted the bigger brakes, and the spindles are bigger too. Was curious on the capacities, looks like I'm good for an extra theoretic 662kgs/1,456lbs. of payload. Lol

Plus the difference in hatch / coupe weights, but so far from what I have found is that the Coupe curb weight is only 44lbs heavier?!?

So my 750kg/1650lbs hatch can carry 658kg/1,447lbs. Lol

Assuming the '96's+ had the 1.3 engines tho. So it's just a cargo & braking point of view.

you might want to have a look at what you plan.

there's a reason for the increased weight rating. the rear spindles on the older cars are tapered, the spindles on the sedans are straight. that makes the brake drums and wheel bearings incompatible.

the later model sedans here in the usa use hubs and bearings like the gt rears. the later 3 door cars have bearings similar to the earlier cars but have a difference in diameter. even the hub dust covers are different between early and later models.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd. - 1992 White Suzuki Swift GT

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

My YouTube Channel

My Photo Gallery

SAAB Sonett II

That's why I plan on using everything from the bottom of the strut out, then I also eliminate the 'itty bitty' lug nuts

AND by upgrading the brakes front AND rear, I'm assuming my proportioning valve will still be in sync front to rear.

Haven't read anyone swapping the rears over, but it all works on paper
Lol

Finaly got my junk together and swapped my stuff out.
figured I'ld post some results....

Patient: '91 Chevy Sprint hatch
Donor '96 Pontiac Firefly 4-door brakes

swapped the whole knuckle assembles, 4 corners & bled ~ 5 un-hustled hours

Everything bolted up GREAT, even the banjo bolts. Only mis-mash was the axle seal. For some reason it was a Geo Metro seal, the 'Sprint' one had a smaller I.D. Which doesnt make sense, because it didnt even match the ones that were originally IN my Sprint :-S
The rear was just as easy, minor bend of the brake line and it screwed right into the wheel cylinder.
E-brake cables are a little long, but I didnt check if the drum sides are the same, might be able to re-use the shorter lines (I was in a hurry, and swapped it as an assembly). Even the brake master cylinders have the same bore.

Cons:
lil hunting, lil time
Need new wheel nuts
Need larger tire/wheel combo

Pros:
Larger rotors(5/8") AND vented
Larger drums (11% diameter / 75% width)
Bigger bearings
Bigger spindles
Rotors slide over top of the hub
Drums slide over top of the hub
12mm lug studs
Need larger tire/wheel combo

As for alignment, it was uber close, just needed a toe adjust. Had the mis-alignment pinch bolts just incase.
Havent jumped on the brakes yet, letting them bed in a lil longer first, but the peddle feels alot more firm, could be from bleeding out the brown brake fluid too tho.