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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Location: Exeter California 93221
I found a problem with a service scan here at this site. I found this after check micro switchs at ECM. Here is the link to the scan I'm talking about. http://s288.photobucket.com/albums/ll19 ... l029-1.jpg . If you notice its backwards. Why do I say this . Well if you check the wire digram with anyother service manual, Like Haynes also the manual mentioned above. It clear states the color of the wire the WOT is G/Y (GRAY W YELLOW STRIP) in if you look in the service manual above it states terminal 5 as idle micro switch. But if you look at the color of wire at terminal 5 its G/Y. So I dont know if anybody else cought this....This why I thought I had them backwards in a earlier post. Come to find out they where rite. After I switch them around as the test showed. I noticed that when I reved up motor to 3000rpm. The Secondary air valve wouldnt kick in. Also after I idle up motor . The idle up actuator wouldnt kick in for that 3 seconds like it should. So after switch the micro switch back around everything worked perfect...So heads up...Here is a wire layout of a mk1 with man trans to show what I'm talking about.http://www.teamswift.net/Lihtan/mk1/88% ... iagram.png

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 4:35 pm 
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Location: Exeter California 93221
Here is a good side by side. Here is a link to the small picture. Lihtan/mk1/88% ... iagram.png


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File comment: Service scan
MK1CarburatorManual028-1.jpg
MK1CarburatorManual028-1.jpg [ 84.4 KIB | Viewed 631 times ]
File comment: http://www.teamswift.net/Lihtan/mk1/88% ... iagram.png
88 carb 3 cyl MT wiring diagram.png [26.61 KIB]
Downloaded 307 times

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 6:28 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
There are two different cars there.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:24 pm 
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As in 2 different cars. Do you mean two different years? When I checked Haynes in chilton. It shows the the wire complete revers. when I looked at all the other 1985-1988 wiring diagrams the also show them as being reversed. I wish I Could scan lol the gray and yellow should go to the WOS is that right. Because on the wiring diagram In that same book showing testing sensor. As the WOS being gray and yellow. But then in next chapter it says the Gray and yellow goes to the idle switch. In I went back in read it again just to make sure, I didn't see where is said for what car it was for. Lol that don't mean much (reading ) They have the gray and black going to the WOS. But at the ECM its gray and yellow. (Head scratch) A

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:26 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Yes, his wiring diagram is from an '88 and the book you are looking at is for the '85.
There shouldn't be that much difference, but remember,
there is no more external high altitude compensator and
the engine compartment/underhood temperature sensor has been replaced with an intake air temperature sensor in the air cleaner.
These are minor differences, and I think you are on to something with that wiring error in the book.
Good eye!

BTW, do you know where they put the 'high altitude compensator'
Image
after 1986?

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:35 am 
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I heard that they changed the wiring in different years. I just wanted to note this. To warm somebody else thought they had micro switch reversed. As for the 1988 the high altitude switch is in the ECM ? I might be wrong... Its by the ECM not in the ECM on 1988. I looked at a friends swift. But that by the chilton service manual . I can post when I figure out why my printer wont scan. It shows a good break down of the 1985 - 1986 in then there is a change in 1987-1988 <---OBO1. In the wire diagram on the 1987-1988 it shows (altitude switch is there. its in the ecm.

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:18 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Yep, you got it.
The altitude sensor was moved into the computer.
Our Chevrolet Sprints were the last carburetor Suzuki cars to be sold in the USA, although the Samurai had a carburetor for a few years more.
The point is, you are in the middle of the 'learning curve' of the emissions equipment as they moved from OBD I to OBD II.
In '95, most everything was OBD II and fuel injected.
Thus, a lot of the technology which was evolving at the time is included in our cars.

The 1980s saw most of the USA population dropping out of car repairs as carburetors got more complicated.
Most men couldn't keep up.
Now, the younger generation is trying their hand at mostly OBD II cars, and is finding them easy to repair thanks in part to their more advanced electronics, and because the younger generation is more 'computer friendly'... 8)

Your '85 has its own diagnostic capability, but it is not as specific as the '87 on which tells exactly which system is having a problem. Considering the complexity of your automobile's system, you should be able to fix almost any OBD II car.

Those trying it the 'old skool' way of timing by ear, and pulling all the smog sh*t off because it is bad will never get their cars to run right. Nor will they be able to get the great gas mileage these cars are noted for.
You've GOT to fix them 'by the book'.

There comes a 'break even' point for fixing up these old cars.
You've got to balance the time you spend micromanaging the different systems with the time you spend driving them.
In order to get your money 'out' of the car, you have to drive it, as they don't have a large resale value at the time of this post.
Thus, smart money is all about fixing them up as quickly and efficiently as possible, and then driving them 'trouble free' for a few years, doing nothing but basic maintenance.
Someday, they may be worth a bundle, but until then, their value is best recovered as a reliable and economical daily driver.

Here's an example:
20,000 miles driven annually; switching from a 25 mpg car to a 35 mpg car would save you $1000 per year in gasoline.
You switch to an MK1 which is tuned properly, and you DOUBLE that.

Performance modifications, now that's another story...

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:12 pm 
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Location: Exeter California 93221
Was that a nicce way of saying to stop messing wth my car? Lol im on vaction for a month. I told myself id make sure id get my car in the best shape possible. Why well i have to drive to fresno every day to work. So everything i do is saving me money in gas.

_________________
1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:58 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
:lol:

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:21 pm 
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lol :lol:

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!


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