TeamSwift

I have a 1998 Chevrolet Metro 1.0L.

I need help with my clutch issue. Problem is the clutch no longer works. It just goes down to the floor without resistance until it gets near the bottom. Then it is VERY stiff and hard to press. Any ideas?

if you dont get an answer quickly, im sorry i cannot help you there.

if this is alright? i dont see why not


head to geometroforum.com

will get you answers quick

Thanks!!! This place looks kind of dead nowadays.

I'm guessing you checked to see if the cable broke. Can you shift with the engine running? It could be the springs on the pressure plate broke but not likely.

Cable is not broken. I can shift with the engine running but the gears scrape.

did i see the time on your first post at 2:30 and 26 minutes later, at 2:56, post the above?

sorry, i don't get home from work until 4:30.

you may have a broken yoke or the throwout bearing might have fallen off. with the wee bit of info you gave us, it might also be that a spring has dislodged from the clutch hub and is bound up in the pressure plate.

whatever, there's no "fix in a can" and your only approach is to pull the transmission and have a look.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 2000 Chevy Metro 1.3L MPFI automatic. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized 1.0L 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project

My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue

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SAAB Sonett II

Does the pedal pull itself back up?

Pop the hood, and grab the clutch actuator arm, and work the clutch manually. What happens?

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

This reply has my vote.
Did you ever solve your low idle problem?
Sounds like it needed an MCS, but you didn't provide any feedback.
How about the muffler? Have you replaced that...it's been a while, eh?
You can find a lot of answers on other sites, especially if you post a video of your complaint.

Well, back to cleaning hydraulic lifters I go. Hope you solve your problem. Plan on $110 for a new clutch if you replace it yourself (clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing) or around $500 for a shop ($250 in parts, $250 in labor).

Gas prices being the way they are, I wouldn't complain, if I were you... as you own the highest gas mileage car available...

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

My idle problem remains unsolved.

I replaced my muffler.

Gas prices... You bet. That's why I'm resurrecting my metro.
Thanks.

Okay, thanks everyone for your responses.

I'll pull the actuator arm in the morning to see what happens. The pedal does return.

Anyone know where I can find a change clutch/pressure plate how-to for a 1998 Chev Metro 1.0 liter 5 speed?

Start here:

viewforum.php?f=9



...and make sure NOT to click on any of the links in my signature...

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!