TeamSwift

I am just completing the installation of an 89 DOHC in my 83 SJ410K pickup and have a problem with a check engine light. The light comes on for only a second until the EFI relay throws, and then goes out. Once the engine is started the light comes back on and stays on. There is nothing but a code 12 when doing the self check. I have swapped in a spare ecu with no change. I've been quite careful redirecting and mating some circuits to the original harness and there is the chance that I've got a bad connection. I'm wondering if someone out there had a similar set of symptoms and chased it down to a component or area? Thanks!

what ecu are you running. do you have any pics of your truck?

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1992 geo metro the perpetual project car
1986 suzuki samurai LWB aka beth
1994 suzuki sidekick 4 door

F3
MT-FED
33920-64B3 0
EPI-003C

The truck is in the middle of a full frame off restoration but I don't have good pix yet.
Thanks.

That kind of sounds like a bad ECU ground. Check the ECU ground on the engine harness. It mounts to the #4 intake runner on the intake manifold.

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"Don't argue with stupid people. They just bring you down to their level and then beat you with experience."

Thanks for the tip but I had already carefully probed the bolt and the wire terminals and they appear to have a good ground. I have also been careful to check all the grounds as well as double checking that all the circuits I modified are still identical, in path at least, to the original wiring schematic. I should add that I drove the donor car 500 kms and there were no issues.
Even though it's a long shot, I am running my modified wiring problem by the list members with the assumption that the momentary check engine light during startup as well as an eventual light with no codes is unique to a particular problem. Thanks again for your tip.

In the Samurai LWB I owned before (G13BA 8valve), I disabled the EGR valve just unplugging it, and CHECK ENGINE light was ON always, and went off plugging again the EGR. Check if the EGR is plugged and working.(If mounted, in some markets Suzuki didn't mounted EGRs in the GTis)

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1995 Swift GTi Euro-Spec
Running in Mallorca, Spain.

The only things different from the donor car is there is no charcoal can or brake booster connections. I tried unplugging the valve? that is inline before the tank vent hose reaches the charcoal can and no change.

Hi,
Did you ever got this sorted?

Cheers

No. I have been busy in the final assembly of the truck but will soon be struggling with the problem once it's on the road I'm still hoping someone has had a similar glitch and found the source. The initial test run was eye opening. This truck hauls.

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I'll assume that you're using the GTi dash that came with the motor/ecu. Is the REV counter and Tach working?

MF

I don't do anything simple. I machined the SJ410 cluster to accept the complete GTi speedo with speed sensor still in place. I used the tach trigger to fire an Autogauge tiny 8K unit that mounts on the side of the dash pod (that sits on top of the dash pad in these). I ran a ground wire from the other side of the sensor as it looked to need it and wasn't in the plastic cluster. I have the CEL if it's grounded or not so that wasn't it.

I have been driving my little truck for a few weeks after four years of restoration and the DOHC is a lot more fun than the 45hp 1L that it came with. I still have a constant CE light with no codes and I'm still trying to figure out if anything is 'wrong'. It doesn't suffer from the typical high idle after warm up, but doesn't act like the warm up cycle is functioning correctly either. It settles down to a regular idle after about 5 seconds and acts like a cold engine running lean even though it doesn't stall. The engine is so twitchy during this stage that I start off in second which with 4.10 gears is easy anyways. I guess I'm trying to get feedback if these have a limp mode and I'm in it? The engine seems to pull well and makes power but I don't have anything to compare to but the lighter GTi donor car.
On another note, I had a flaky high idle until I removed the dashpot. Again I have nothing to compare it to, but it seems hooped as it looks to be merely a shock absorber on this setup but has significant resistance and thus is no surprise that it overpowers the return spring. Is it broken and do I need one?
Thanks!

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were do i start
Ok Me I'm a MK1 guy true to the end but drive a MK3 (94 SSGT) with cold air and header straight pipe
enough about me now your CE light please post what the numbers on your ECM are
if you get no codes you might be good to go because youe ECM does not match your wiring (IE) 89 wiring with a MK3 ECM
about your idle scetch driving when cold with good power we need a picture of your engine bay to see what your running
My 94 is dodgey when cold and i'm ok with it it idles well and snaps to life when i stand on it
not what I'm used to with the MK1 cars ......got to go ...lator....jv&s
..

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All my ecu data is at the beginning of this thread and I drove the donor car 500km home with no issues before the transplant. Something I should add is that during warmup it does hesitate offidle.
Thanks.