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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 12:37 am 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Did you try a fine wire brush to work the deposits loose on the screen, if it were me I'd probably try
using a pin or loose bristle from a wire brush to try to clear the debris. Oil eater works pretty good,
I used to get it at Costco...must have been some nasty oil in there. You could have your machine shop
hot tank it..
OE oil pan gasket is just silicone. No such thing as a oil pan gasket, I've seen them on the internet,
but that is not how the factory did it at least on MK1.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Ive tried a wire brush and a frayed up throttle cable I had laying around I guess I may take it to the machine shop to be hot tanked. I'll check the machine shop doesn't have one they'd sell me first. It had a cork gasket when I took it off it was a PITA to get off the oil pan if factory only used silicone that is what I will use. Fumbling with a pan gasket isn't something I particularly enjoy. My friend who has a bone stock mk1 non turbo car also has a cork gasket on his oil pan it leaks habitually though. Thanks as always!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 3:09 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So machine shop said to use oven cleaner on the oil pickup they called it "Hot Tank in a can" so I'll be trying that. I have a question about the VAF So I plan on getting rid of the air box for a cone shaped air filter I was wondering if it is light sensitive. I was considering replacing the top cover with a some clear Plexiglass and am assuming that it's not light sensitive. Bad Idea? I'm going to have to increase the spring tension and want to be able to watch it while the car is running. :huh:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 6:15 pm 
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You probably won't notice a perceptible difference at idle.
The main concern is operation at WOT, and WOT standing still is not
the same airflow volume as WOT under load.

Definately wan't to keep it sealed from the elements, if you slice the silicone carefully with
a razor on the black plastic cover, you can pry it out easily and pop it back in and it will
remain relatively sealed. I have mine inverted so that the black cover is on top for easy access.

For your purposes at this point it's almost a moot point as you'll only be doing a few clicks
on the tension wheel. If you have a high flow turbo, oversized intake tubing and oversized exhaust,
that's the point where you would want to tighten the spring up to half a turn at which point you
would need to access the factory sealed bypass screw to allow more air for idle because the spring
will be too stiff to allow enough air to move the flapper enough for idle. There's a fine point as well
if it's too stiff it won't move enough at idle and even though the bypass screw adjustment might allow enough
air for idle, you won't get any fuel because the flapper won't move. If you didn't have an accurate AF meter,
you would go extreme lean and not even know it, but you'd know something was wrong because you
wouldn't be able to drive more than a few yards if that.

Since you've got larger valves and port matched and ported the head? You should do the same with the
exhaust side and exhaust manifold and a few clicks on the VAF should be enough to eliminate fuel
cut up to around 10-11psi. Any more boost than that will just open IC blow off valve under load.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:08 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So I've searched for this in the fsm and have run into more dead links than answers. When installing the oil pump what side of the metal gasket do the o rings sit and what are the sizes of these rings? I ordered a new pump it came with the gasket but no rings. When I google the pump it shows having two O rings my assumption is that they sit between the gasket and block. as far as the VAF goes instead of replacing the top cover with plexiglass I'm going to just have it anodized(just the top cover. I'm concerned that the plexi may distort from the heat becoming discolored or warped to where it make make contact and interfere with VAF operation.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 6:39 am 
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I think the o-rings go at the bottom of the dipstick tube and where the tube going to the oil pan pickup goes into the pump.

_________________
91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2017 11:20 pm 
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That's right on the o rings.
However the correct oil pumps are near impossible to find.
They are not the same as the NA motor oil pump. You may be better off
re-using your old one. The internals are different as well as the oil pressure
spec. If it were me, I would use the OE pump. If you think it's worn out, you
can take it apart and check for wear per the FSM.
Most online listings will list the normally aspirated oil pump as replacement
for Turbo motors, which is incorrect. You would need to verify the part # for
the correct replacement pump.

Normally aspirated engines used a gear type pump on the carbureted versions,
the turbo engines used a rotor type pump. Basically the pressure difference is
that the turbo rotor pump has an additional 5.9 psi over the na pump.
42.7-54 psi na vs. 42.7-59.7 psi turbo.

1985-1988 carbureted oil pump Suzuki part # 96062263
1987-1988 turbo version oil pump Suzuki part # 96057368 (1987), #96062527 (1988)
87-88 turbo pumps should be interchangeable

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 7:55 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Thanks Woody and JS. My old oil pump was pretty caked with crap and I couldn't get those damn screws off to check was concerned about using to harsh of solvent to clean it so I opted to buy a new one. Rock auto has a decent selection for the pumps and I selected the ITM pump that was specified for turbo. It had a different part number than the non turbo "standard volume and pressure" pump. Unfortunately it is already installed on my engine as its nearly ready to go back in. Since both have the same minimal pressure rating I think whichever pump I actually received will suffice for my initial break in (boost controller set to nil and no high rpm's) where I'll be able to see via hand held oil pressure guage if my pump is capable of producing sufficient oil pressure to give her back the boost and iron footing. On a side note I have found the limitations of my new n/a piston/rods in an old thread to be 15 psi with correct fueling( Perfect for my build). Got my new interior nearly finished I'm quite excited that it's coming together as well as it is.

Thanks for the help everyone and advice and suggestions team swift rocks thanks to you friendly folks.

Pictures can still be seen at:

https://flickr.com/photos/146386930@N04 ... 6229624076


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:09 am 
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Nice work, love it. Love the pics.
Very intriguing can't wait to see more.

My daily driver is out due to emissions failure on a 2016 Cooper, complete nightmare POS.

I'm back to commuting in my project car, which I'm very attached too.
I'ts been several years since the rebuild, and still tweaking it, but finally hit 1000 miles
on the motor, which I think is officially broken in now.

Several other projects in tow.

Keep up the good work.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 6:51 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Glad you like it :mrgreen: . Did a basic service of my injectors today in the shop started with a leak test and two of my injectors were partially stuck open. Did a flow test and two are even one is a little clogged ran a 5m ultrasonic clean cycle on each end they no longer leak however the one is still a little clogged. Going to do a full cleaning cycle on Monday to see if I can get my odd injector to flow like the other two. I noticed while I was running my flow test that the shop has a set of four injectors that are the same as what I've got so if my odd ball can't free up I'll snag one of those and see if I can't get a matching set. I got new o rings and screens for them I posted some more pictures of this if anyone is curious what the "reman" process is for injectors. I got the o ring for the oil pickup so the pan goes on this evening. Does anyone have a picture of a rocker making initial contact with the cam lobe with a performance cam? Im a little nervous about having too much lift and am yet to receive the specs to which my cam was ground.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 12:50 am 
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My experience with injector rebuild is basically, flow test, rebuild consists cleaning, replacing screens, o rings and and seals,
and flow test showing before/after results. Runs about $100-125 set.
My performance cam grind from 3-tech resulted in a vastly different looking cam vs. OE, I had no problem
installing and adjusting valves. Don't recall the specs, wish I documented it, it's in an old email on another computer.
But pretty much I had to adjust idle speed to compensate, lost pretty much all low end torque, and powerband
moved to the upper RPM's. Based on my specs, header and K04 turbo, 2-1/4" exhaust and target boost of
15psi along with other mods, it's crap off the line, no comparison to stock but when the slow spooling oversize
turbo kicks in, it's like an afterburner. Darn torque steer pulls darn near 2 lanes over and the Centerforce clutch
wouldn't hold worth crap. Clutch issues were fixed, and after a full rebuild with low compression motor, the
low end issues worsened, an LSD helped with the torque steer, and a 5° cam advance pulley helped the powerband,
and I was forced to install a high flow cat due to the noxious exhaust fumes.
I don't expect you'll have near the problems/learning curve I had if your keeping the stock turbo, and I'm seriously
considering installing the stock cam back in to see how the low end improves, but I'm still tweaking and want to
dyno it to see where I'm at after the extreme rebuild. I was hoping for 150WHP, last dyno before the rebuild
was 125WHP. It's definately a white knuckle ride when the boost kicks in. Looks like you've got an eye for details,
and caring to do things the right way, love the kitchen table pics. =)

I am curious if you rebuilt the turbo yourself and how that turned out?
As well as the stereo unit, I purchased a similar one for another sprint, then realized the pop out
screen may not clear the above controls and air vents, have yet to install it.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:09 pm 
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Location: Oregon
I've got to get the engine finished before I tear apart the turbo I'm down to just the workbench my wife kicked me off the dining room table :lol: . My friend and I reached the same conclusion that since it's a bushed not a ball bearing turbo keeping it balanced will come down to getting the new bearings in the casing absolutely square and aligned.. Luckily I have other turbos that I could fab into my build if my rebuild attempt goes south. Funny you'd mention the stereo unit fitment the unit I have is a clarion pop out touch screen from a turbo beetle my wife had it was a factory special order in vw's and some toyotas so I had to do some rewirig in the car and run my ground straight to the chassis just for it to turn on. The screen has a tilt adjust so I powered it up out of the dash then set it to an angle where it wouldn't hit my controls if I hadn't it definitely would have ran into the heater switches. Once I had it wired in I ran into a problem with the deck it is too long it fits right into the factory hole but sticks out about half an inch because it hits the heater box. I plan on fixing my cracked dash pad so when I pulled out the dash I was going to cut a hole in my heater box so the stereo can fully seat and then have a friend fiberglass the hole. The unit has a safety switch circuit that supposed to be hooked into the emergency brake light but since I've gotten rid of it for a hydraulic hand brake I was considering just taping the switch and removing the ground that goes from it to the e brake dash light And running it to chasis. That way the brake light only illuminates when my fluid is low and my wife can watch movies while we're taking a road trip. Keeping the deck from overheating will be an issue in the winter with it pretty much riding on a heat source. In the short time I had the car driving I did overheat it once. The unit is pretty much a small computer so it has a fail safe to shut down before it damages itself and turn back on when it's cooled down it took about 4 hours with the radio and heater on to shut down. The stereo system I have is proving to be more trouble than it's worth so I've been neglecting to address it. I wanted to put speakers only in the factory locations in the car so I bought the cutest little kickers I've ever seen getting them into the dash worked until the dash began to crumble and one of my speakers ended up in my glove box :shock: . The hatch speakers aren't even wired in yet because I can't get the 16 guage wire through without getting it tangled (doesn't help I lost my snapon wire snake last time I moved).. The valve springs can handle the lift and I'm nowhere near having any interference in the engine my concern comes from the angle at which my rocker meets the cam lobe as it starts to open the valve. I'll try to get a picture of this some time today. I just put the rear main in and want to give time for everything to set before l turn it over at all. I'm only worried about damaging a rocker from making contact almost completely on the tip of their contact patch when the valve starts to open up. Well enough talking today's my Saturday and I've got work to do. :buzz:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 5:59 pm 
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So I need an injector. Ran another test and cleaning cycle with new screens and my odd ball is still behind by about 10ml of the others. Unfortunetly the injectors I found in the shop have a single hole not two so I can't use them. Just put new drums and wheels bearings on the car. This weekend the motor gets dropped back into the car as I start to button things up. Figured out why I had no horn the contact on the back of the wheel that comes from the column had broken I soldered a new peice of copper in so I will have a horn with my new steering wheel. Has anyone put a racing harness in a mk1 without using a harness bar? The few gti's I found have full cages and I cannot afford the chromoly right now I was quoted at about $700 for a simple roll/harness bar. My factory seats are going to be sent to the dump as much as I hate to see this they must be too far gone for anyone to bother picking them up. Hey Jamal I have a question. How do your turn signals function with your aftermarket wheel on the car? Do you have to switch off your blinker each time you turn or is there a solution for this I haven't realized short of tack welding prawns onto the back of my adapter?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 2:55 pm 
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Location: Oregon
So I am rebuilding my turbo today I have it dissasembled if anyone is going to do this my tip will be that the nut that hold the air side impeller is reverse threaded. I've found that my exaust housing is cracked. The crack would make this turbo junk however I'm going to use it for my break in then fab in my Saab 3.0 turbo I just picked up. Pictures will go up tonight of my rebuild the kit is missing two of the bush's but the old ones are still salvageable. I'd say a rhb32 rebuild is completely doable for anyone willing to take the time and pay attention to detail total time is about 3 hours with cleaning.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Bad news cracked shaft, turbo is junk. Took allot of time cleaning before it was visible. Glad I noticed early on. I went to put it back together for storage and just the stress from the impeller retaining nut was enough to make it give. I would say do not attempt to rebuild one of these unless you have multiple pairs of very small snap ring pliers and spanner wrenches but still it is doable if the turbo is worth saving unfortunate mine was not. New on my to do list will be getting the exaust manifold from the Saab machined to bolt up to my engine. Interesting note about the 3.0 Saab turbo is it ran off of the front three cylinders of a transversely mounted v-6. Long story short it has been done before but there is no information of how long it lasted on the g10T. I'm into the Saab turbo and manifold free.99 so it's worth looking into from my perspective. If anyone knows if the guy who did this before posted on here at any point I would love to know I've seen reference to this turbo as "the big ass garret off the Saab 3.0" that's the only reference here I've found on the idea. In the mean time I'll keep on tinkering.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 7:56 pm 
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Location: Oregon
Okay time to make my stupidness public. I've put my distributor in. It only goes in one direction but somehow I appear to be 180 out. On a four cyl I'd say screw it and wire it to suit but on a 3 cyl that puts my rotor between 2-3 at tdc cyl 1. I checked my crank mark and the dot is at the arrow. I checked my cam mark and the mark lines up with the v mark on the top of the metal cover. I check my rotor and what in the what I'm nowhere. I pulled my timing belt off realigned my marks and my rotor is still 180 out. I pulled the dizzy again and tried to install the shaft 180 degrees from where it was and it is about 3/8" from sitting flush not going all the way into the hole. I'm using all the parts (cap rotor and wires) that I had before disassembly and matched all my marks what is going on? :huh: I've put close ups of my marks on my Flickr album. If I put my engine on tdc of the exaust stroke of cyl 1 the rotor is on cyl 1. My cap is directional and can only be installed one way. :WTF:.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 12:08 pm 
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So I think I've figured it out.. I may have the wrong cap? Somehow I had it wired before with #2 going to #1 and the car ran just fine because the others were all moved over 1. If I turn my distributor just past my mark that I made at the base the rotor is pointing to the #2 terminal. Maybe I need to lay off the brake kleen :dunno: I thought I had read that the #1 terminal is the top most terminal and mine is at the bottom left?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:03 am 
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As far as the turn signals, if you get the correct mounting adapter for the wheel I think you just need to replace the roll
pins with longer ones if I recall correctly.

Bummer on the turbo, cracking around the wastegate is normal on these. Small cracks are liveable and I've run many
thousands of miles with them in that condition. I do have a seized turbo in otherwise perfect condition, will have to
try my hand at it one of these days.

Dist cap should have the numbers stamped on it. I've had trouble with the rotor before and installed it backwards.
It's kinda hard to screw up the firing order, there's only 3 wires. I've done it though and have a You Tube vid to
prove it of a new motor startup. =)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hHvqbxRBS0&t=62s


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:18 pm 
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Location: Oregon
New cap and wires come today hopefully this will sort out my ignition confusion before the cap was forced on backwards so the the cap I had the right firing order but only when forced on backwards. The new cap should either fix this or there is something very wrong lol.

Finally have my hydro hand brake plumbed in posted some pictures of my new headache. It works it doesn't leak my proportioning will be off now but this was wanted to force more to the front than usual so hopefully I can lock the front while using oe equipment. The rear won't lock via pedal but my hand brake will easily lock em up. Picked up some rubber wire holders to insulate the soft lines and reduce vibration am in the process of fastening the lines up to keep them from being a scrape hazard other than the one point a line has to come onto the frame rail. The reason I call It a headache is I've created 6-7 new points from which a leak could occur going to leave it in the parked position overnight and see if I have any tiny leaks.

Ordered a front mount 2" intercooler and an exedy 4 puck clutch with the pressure plate. Switched my path from the Saab turbo to a k04 from my wife's old car. Couldn't think of a solution for the Saab hanging too low in the engine bay without cutting up the manifold and I didn't get the down pipe to match it. Going to make a log type manifold until I can afford the real deal. I can pick up a vw down pipe for change and cut the flange off and then have my friend weld up a ghetto fabulous down pipe. Hoping to get this baby on the road by May now another deadline to miss.

I ordered a samurai steering wheel adapter that for some reason(maybe because it was $10) didn't have any holes for roll pins. Ill just drill some shallow holes and drive in some roll pins rather than waste my time trying to weld this cheap pop metal.


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